IH 6.9L 84 Ford F250

91f2504x4

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I just want to add in case you don't already know that if you are not turning the key on then your glow plugs are not going to be working at all. Best bet is to fix the ignition switch and go from there, but you can apply 12v directly to the fuel shut off solenoid on top the injection pump and get it to start that way. If there is no 12v to the injection pump (i.e. the key is off), then you are not getting fuel from the injectors, you must be checking the wrong line, once you get 12v to the pump then you can crank the engine and barely loosen the line on top the injection and watch for fuel to spray or run out.

With the questions that you seem to be asking, I think it would be in your best interest to go to Autozone or Advance and get the book there called:
Diesel Engine Repair Manual, it's a Haynes and would be very good for you to have as a beginner with these engines, it would really help answer a lot of your questions and have pictures to go with it. The book covers the early Chevy and Ford Diesels, even the 7.3l PowerStroke somewhat.
 

typ4

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oh trust me, I've been under that darn thing for days, now I have to spend another 10$ on 2 more expansion plugs because I don't know if the one I have to replace is 1 inch or 1/2 inch. and I called Burchett Ford and they told me 1 inch 1/2 and thats what I got and it was too big! so don't tell me to climb around the truck and ask questions!!!!

I didnt mean it like that, I meant make a big list then we can all help at once.

Upon review I didnt word it correctly, sorry, no wonder the wife is always pissed.:eek:

Isnt it nice that the dealer cant get the right parts for these trucks??:backoff
 

FORDMAN41291

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I'm tellin you, really the only problem is right now is gettin the ignition to work correctly, I mean you can turn the turn signal on and what not and you get power the darn lock cylinder just won't turn the engine on??? do I need a wheel puller to put a new lock cylinder on? someone did tell me the reason why i didnt start the first time is because the GP's were not getting tricity to help warm the fuel up and get it goin.
 

typ4

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Run a jumper from the Injector pump to the battery then try to start it, you can jump the glowplugs but only for 10 seconds or so. The ign lock can turn into a huge can of worms. Make it run till warm then if you are keeping it, it may be easier to go get a used column. Gasser will work also.
 

FORDMAN41291

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why does my truck have an electronic IP I'm asking because I just read on a web page saying that all 6.9's have a rotary mechanically operated IP, and if possible can you buy a new lock cylinder not the part with the tumblers but the part that is actually inside the steering column?


the web page is listed below
read the little paragraph were you see an injector pump



http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/ford/0810dp_ford_diesel_truck/1983_ford_f250_diesel.html
 

cm1hedge

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The injector pump is, in fact, a mechanical pump. It requires 12 volts to turn the fuel soleniod on and off. There has to be a way to turn off the fuel. Diesels are compression combustion engines. The fuel being injected into the engine is what causes it to start and run, so the only way to shut a diesel off is to stop the flow of fuel into the injectors.
 

david85

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The only thing thats electric in the pump is the fuel shut off solenoid, the cold advance, and on an exterior bracket, the cold high idle. None of these are computer controlled. The cold high idle and timing advance are controlled by a temperature switch. The FSS is simply on with the ignition.

The internal timing and fuel delivery of the pump is completely mechanical and hydraulic. Some later stanadyne pumps have a solid state control module that allows for computer control of the timing and fuel delivery curve. These ones have nothing like that (thankfully) and are much cheaper and more reliable.
 

FORDMAN41291

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leme ask you this how do I repair the key ignition thing that is inside the steering column it is not turning the start motor on but is allowing the radio and turn signals to come on. how do I fix it?
 

cm1hedge

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Let's start with the basics. What happens when the key is in the following positions:
1.All the way back(ACC):
2. In the ignition position:
3. Start position:

Do you have a tilt column?
The actual ignition switch is on top of the column just above the firewall.
The switch could be bad. The actuator may not be moving the switch. The switch could be out of adjustment.. We need to narrow down what the cause is. It does not help to throw out ideas until we find the root cause first.

You could remove the switch off of the column and slide it to the different positions(there is a hole in it where the actuator goes). If nothing happens, I would seriously consider the switch
 

FORDMAN41291

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well the only thing that happens is the turn signal works and the radio will come on, and again the starter doesn't come on, like right now with the key out of the key hole I can still turn on the windshield wipers and turn signals, how much and where can I get an ignition switch?
but I did take one of the steering column shrouds off and the metal thing that locks the steering column does move a little bit, but maybe not enough to hit the ignition part that starts the starter motor.


thanks
 

91f2504x4

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If your key is turning to the start position and everything will work except for the truck starting, first check to make sure that you are getting 12v to the solenoid excitation wire when the key is turned to the start position. If you are not getting voltage there it is more than likely the switch on the top of the steering column under that dash or a bad wire somewhere. The switch on mine went bad and caused something similar a while back.

To check the wire that is going to the solenoid, take it loose from the solenoid on the fender, then have someone hook an electric tester to it and you can turn the key to the start position. If it doesn't show 12v with the key in the start position I would replace that switch on the column.
 

FORDMAN41291

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and again electricity is going to the solenoid because I can get a screw driver and touch it and it would start the motor,

do you have an Instant Messenger?
 

cm1hedge

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It sounds like either the switch is out of adjustment, the actuator is faulty, or the switch is bad. Remove the switch and move the little hole back and forth and see what works. While the switch is out, remove the key. If the rod will move up and down the column, you have a problem with the actuator. Then, check for rod movement when you turn the key.

The wipers, turn signals, radio, etc. should not operate when the key is in the off position.
 

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