Ignition cylinder woes...

[Chevyboy_0]

So today i was going to head out to the shop so i get in Irene and turn the key and she tries to start but wont...she fired off a couple times but then stopped. I waited a few minutes then tried again but this time nothing happened and it took almost no effort to turn the key. I look at the dash and the Red ENGINE light is on as well as the Battery light but she wont start i thought the cylinder was bad so i went an picked one up for 15 bucks (Standard P/N US-70L just in case any one needs one) come home and swap it in but when i reconnect the batts the same thing happens no effort to turn the key and the ENGINE and BATT light are on... Am i missing something here or is something else majorly wrong?

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Sounds like the switch at the bottom of the column is bad. That or you broke that little L shaped pot metal POS that Ford thought was such an amazing idea, which is hidden inside the steering column.

 

[Chevyboy_0]

Sounds like the switch at the bottom of the column is bad. That or you broke that little L shaped pot metal POS that Ford thought was such an amazing idea, which is hidden inside the steering column.

where would i find said L shaped Pot metal POS, same with the switch? i really need to try and have this thing running by tonight cause i have work tomorrow

 

[icanfixall]

Most any auto parts will sell this linkage in the help section. This is a pos and a pain in the... To replace too.... There was some recient postings of what this pos looks like... Anybody got a link to that picture...

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Andrew, to get to the L shaped pot metal actuating lever or whatever its called you have to pull the tumbler out of the column, pull the steering wheel off and disassemble the mechanism underneath the turn signal switch. Here's what I would do though. Pull the column down, there are 4 bolts holding it up underneath the dash. Technically I think you're supposed to unbolt it from the firewall as well or you could bend that plate. The actual ignition switch is a square box mounted on top of the column about 3/4 of the way down. Get the column down far enough you can clearly see the rod running from the L piece down to the switch at the bottom of the column. Put your key into the ignition and turn it over to see if the mechanical function of the ignition system is working properly. There should be no slop and no bind in any of it. If there is you have a problem. If the rod clearly moves proportionally with the movement of the key then your problem is in the switch at the bottom of the column. It simply unbolts after you have it unplugged from the harness. There is adjustment to that switch as well. It slides up and down a certain extent to allow for proper adjustment of the Start and Run location of the slider.
If this doesnt make sense then PM me your phone number. I'll give you a call and try to explain it a bit that way.

 

[Chevyboy_0]

after reading all that im starting to think its th linkage its self because like i said there is absolutly no efort whatsoever neede to turn the key, its just turns and doesnt catch anywhere but the LOCK position where you can remove the key.

Edit: But i will go check the linkage first to make sure before i start buying parts

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I completely went through the column in my brown truck earlier this year after the tumbler quit accepting my key.

There are a couple links in the thread.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26892&highlight=brown+truck+knife

 

[timothyr1014]

like I said in the other thread...pull the cyl out, and remove the shroud between the dash and metal portion of the column....you will see the linkage rod right on top...moving it forward should engage the starter, oulling it towards you is like heading towards off. you can drive it wil the cyl removed and just using the actuator...i did this when I was on the trip where mine broke

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Yea. If you need to just get by for a couple days, pull the lock cylinder out and pull the steering column trim off down by the dash and move that metal rod manually. That is if you're not worried about someone stealing your truck.

 

[Chevyboy_0]

so I got the new part but in the process of removing everything i found four pieces of realy thin metal looks to be bout.025" thick. I dont know where it came from casue when i pulled everything out they fell on the ground are these pieces necessary? I think these pieces go to the blinkers somwehre but i have no idea does anyone know what these aree for or where i can get new ones?

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

I'd say something is broken or something weird. I don't know anything of what you're talking about. By the sounds of how thin the pieces are it could be shielding for that switch. But I really dont know.

 

[timothyr1014]

or it could be scraps of stripped gear.....and the way to avoid having the truck stolen is.....drum role please....put the cyl back in when you stop (this will lock the steering wheel....so I guess they can still take it, but only in a straight line)....I had it down to the point where it only took me aroud 10 sec to yank the cyl and start it

 

[Chevyboy_0]

ok i was under the impression the pieces were for the blinker or something like that cause the wear pattern looks like something is rubbing against it

 

[Chevyboy_0]

well i hopefully should have everything back together today, i went and got my Chevelle from our shop last night so i have something to drive around, only thing is she dont like this cold we have been having. and hopefully today if i get my camera working ill take pictures and do a in depth write up of the procedure to swap out the ignition actuator.

 

[Chevyboy_0]

Edit: never mind i just found the parts not where they were supposed to be