I need a new CDR for 6.9

WrickM

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but i can't seem to find one. Even my local IH dealer doesn't seem to be able to find what i am looking for, though he only deals in medium and heavy trucks and seems to be relatively new. Perhaps it is called something different? does anyone know wherei can buy one. . online hopefully.

Thanks fellas.
 

plywood

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When I was at the Ford dealer the dude had a hard time and ended up figuring it out, but yeah, the issue is they list it with a different name.

I think if know one else remembers the name then just go in and look at the blow up picture and you'll see it.
 

plywood

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Here it is

CDR valve= "Adapter assembly for Crankcase Ventilation" Part number E3TZ-6A665-A or IH part #1805319C1

The "donut" does not come with the CDR. The ford Part Number for the CDR Seal is E3TZ-6A892-A.
 

WrickM

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Crankcase Depression Regulator the name seems weird to me, but that's what it is
 

CDX825

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Should the engine start pulling oil through the CDR and running away on it the valve closes stopping it.

Otherwise its open all the time and does nothing really.
 

WrickM

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the general notion on the board is that if you are burning excess oil and yet do not seem to have a bad blow-by problem then a bad cdr could be the cause. It can also be the cause of smoke issues.
 

OLDBULL8

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Why do you need a new CDR? Is the rubber diaphram shot in it? Did you change the valley pan? If you did it has to be the one with a deflector on the bottom side of it, or the engine will suck up a lot of oil. Did you put a turbo on? If you did, and didn't replace the valley pan then you have to punch holes in the deflector, because the oil flow from the turbo returns back thru the opening where the CDR was. If you don't punch holes in the deflector it fills up and oil will be forced out around the grommet plug. The deflector has very small holes at each end and can't drain fast enough.
 
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rhkcommander

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I was thinking about replacing or hollowing out the cdr- replace it with a pipe. Theres runaway to worry about though.. But I'd rather burn the oil than run a road draft tube (RDT) and pore it on the asphault.
 

Cincinnati Guy

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Why do you need a new CDR? Is the rubber diaphram shot in it? Did you change the valley pan? If you did it has to be the one with a deflector on the bottom side of it, or the engine will suck up a lot of oil. Did you put a turbo on? If you did, and didn't replace the valley pan then you have to punch holes in the deflector, because the oil flow from the turbo returns back thru the opening where the CDR was. If you don't punch holes in the deflector it fills up and oil will be forced out around the grommet plug. The deflector has very small holes at each end and can't drain fast enough.


I have an aftermarket turbo on mine and am not sure if the holes are punched in mine, how do I tell if its been done? Also are there any pictures of what your referring to as the deflector?
 

rhkcommander

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How do you tell if the rubber in side has gone bad?

I cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and let it air dry.
If you see small chunks of black stuff come out its bad. mine were really fine on the chunks.

I think if you blow into it you should hear a pop or something..
 

plywood

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The CDR has three holes in it.

The big one at the top and the big one at the bottom that are plain to see, but there is also one in the back of the diaphram housing that is very small.

The diaphram is pressed toward the pinhole by a spring.

When there is air/gas pressure in the valve, the diaphram is pressed toward the pinhole where it already is and nothing different happens.

When there is vacuum in the CDR, the diaphram is sucked away from the pinhole and blocks the flow of air/gases through the large holes.

At idle, the CDR is a wide open orifice that allows crankcase gases to travel through it into the intake to be burnt. The only time it is closed is in the presence of vacuum which could be caused by over-revving or a maybe a clogged air filter.

I commonly see the missconception that a bad CDR can cause smoke issues. When really the "problem" is that blowby from an increasingly wearing engine passes through it into the intake and can make smoke, but the real problem isn't the CDR itself but the blowby.

A bad CDR will have a bad diaphram and therefore won't close under vacuum so I could believe it could cause some smoking at high rpms, but if the smoke is present at idle then the CDR is not the culprit.

Personally, I would strongly recommend against cleaning it with anything harsh, as the rubber may be damaged and therefore cause the bad CDR.

Cleaning it is only a function of removing the buildup in there so that the gases can flow through it and so it can properly seal them off under vacuum.

I think I would try either diesel or maybe even safer would be a good ATF soak.:dunno
 

WrickM

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awesome explanation! It stands to reason if during vacuum the diaphragm is not closing full that you would have increased oil consumption as the oil is pulled into the intake.
 

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