I heard some things i hope arn't true...

The Warden

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ah, well im asking about the air filter though, not the oil filter.:oops:
Oops; I must have misread it, sorry...that's what I get for posting after a long day at work LOL

Again, this is without having worked on a 115 chassis, but I found this air filter which is supposed to fit your engine, so my guess is it's not supposed to be an oil bath air filter...
 

1994Diesel

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I finally got the new starter in and installed it without a problem. I used may extensions, a swivel connector, and a swivel 10mm hex socket.

I discovered that the battery i wanted to use was dead so i put it on the charger. It wouldnt take very much of a charge. I only wanted to witness the starter working and the engine turning over, so i procedded to use jumper cables to get the engine to turn over. with out even allowing the glow plugs to warm, the engine tried to start after a couple of revolutions of cranking!!!. I was very excited and surprised that the car was showing positive signs of running. I will get a new battery and change the oil before attempting to start the car.

Good day today.
 

The Warden

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Beautiful! ;Sweet

Which primer pump is on the injector pump? Any idea how the fuel system is?

FWIW these aren't as prone to air leaks as the IDI's are, but it can be an issue...and, if the car's been sitting a while, algae is potentially a BIG issue. Assuming the updated primer pump's on the IP, you may do well to change the fuel filters and purge air out of the system before you try a start...
 

1994Diesel

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It runs!!!!!!

It idles rather rough but im confident that a good diesel purge and some new bushings it will run smoothly. I figure there is a vacuum leak because the car will not shut off unless that shut off lever is depressed.

I foolishly tried to put the car in gear before checking the trans fluid. It wouldnt move with throttle application. My stomach sunk, but i figured the small leak after a few months had let out enough fluid to lower it that much. What fluid do these auto transmissions take?
 

1994Diesel

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So i have the car running, but the car wont shut off with the key off and out. I know this is a vacuum issue, but i dont think this is going to affect this transmission because it is converted to electronic? This is what the PO told me and its what i am seeing, no vacuum lines and only wires leading to the trans

The symptoms are delayed 1-2 shift and no shift after that . It goes into reverse just fine.

I just need some help trouble shooting this thing.
 

The Warden

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Again, this is without having worked on a 115 chassis car, but I have yet to see ANY automatic transmission behind an OM61X that didn't have SOME vacuum-related controls, which are generally related to shift points and shift firmness. IIRC one place to look is on the driver's side of the transmission.

Do you have a Mity-Vac? If not, I would strongly suggest buying one...it will make life with an M-B MUCH easier. Beyond that, I'm not really sure...I am not an expert on MB's automatics. I found this thread which may help you...otherwise, you may try running some Trans-X or similar through the tranny and then change the fluid...
 
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1994Diesel

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The more i dig i find i have several things that may play a key role in the trans shift that are disconnected. I also have one serious vacuum leak. I discovered the brown vacuum line under the dash hanging and unconnected. That looks like alot of work to get it connected again.

Tomorrow i will start working on the vacuum leak.
 

1994Diesel

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Thanks again warden, i understand you aren't very familiar with the w115 chassis but your still helping a lot.

I was afraid to let this thing rev up in second because for an idi owner it sounds scary fast and i didn't think it would do anything, but it did shift into third and I'm sure it will shift into fourth, i just didn't have enough room to try and do that on the test run.

Something is way out of adjustment, i just cant figure out how the trans is controlled. I dont really see any obvious cables or rods connected to the trans that would control it.
 

1994Diesel

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Thanks again warden, i understand you aren't very familiar with the w115 chassis but your still helping a lot.

I was afraid to let this thing rev up in second because for an idi owner it sounds scary fast and i didn't think it would do anything, but it did shift into third and I'm sure it will shift into fourth, i just didn't have enough room to try and do that on the test run.

Something is way out of adjustment, i just cant figure out how the trans is controlled. I dont really see any obvious cables or rods connected to the trans that would control it.
 

The Warden

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There HAS to be SOMETHING...123's and 126's used a Bowden cable that connected to the throttle linkage on the right-hand side of the top of the valve cover. I think that the 116 S-class had a rod instead of the cable, but my memory's a bit fuzzy...but that may give you somewhere to look at.

One other thing to think about; are you sure that the tranny's full? If the tranny was low enough on fluid, the torque converter may not have filled up fully even though the dipstick shows full. If possible, you may want to try driving the car around at low speeds a bit and then check the fluid again (with the engine idling, of course), and maybe do that a few times before ruling out that possibility.

Lastly, the 115's don't have a tach, but these engines DO rev high...the governor's in the 5000 RPM range :shocked: on my turbo 617's, I'd generally cruise at about 3000 RPM at 70 mph; with the gearing for a n/a 617, you'll be turning somewhat higher RPM's. You actually want to keep the RPM's above 2000...I'm not sure about the n/a 617, but the turbo 617's sweet spot was in the 2500 RPM range. Certainly a different animal than our IDI's...dyoung would have a field day with a 617's governor :shocked: cookoo
 

1994Diesel

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There HAS to be SOMETHING...123's and 126's used a Bowden cable that connected to the throttle linkage on the right-hand side of the top of the valve cover. I think that the 116 S-class had a rod instead of the cable, but my memory's a bit fuzzy...but that may give you somewhere to look at.

One other thing to think about; are you sure that the tranny's full? If the tranny was low enough on fluid, the torque converter may not have filled up fully even though the dipstick shows full. If possible, you may want to try driving the car around at low speeds a bit and then check the fluid again (with the engine idling, of course), and maybe do that a few times before ruling out that possibility.

Lastly, the 115's don't have a tach, but these engines DO rev high...the governor's in the 5000 RPM range :shocked: on my turbo 617's, I'd generally cruise at about 3000 RPM at 70 mph; with the gearing for a n/a 617, you'll be turning somewhat higher RPM's. You actually want to keep the RPM's above 2000...I'm not sure about the n/a 617, but the turbo 617's sweet spot was in the 2500 RPM range. Certainly a different animal than our IDI's...dyoung would have a field day with a 617's governor :shocked: cookoo

Haha! :rotflmao true

Ok, so the fluid level is correct. With some digging on a mercedes forum i found that the transmission is a 722.118 type, which is vacuum controlled and out of some 80's diesel. So there is no engine to transmission control on this car because it originally had a mechanical linkage.

The PO and the PO before him probably drove it around with out any transmission controls. :eek:

The trans has a vacuum modulator, but is missing a few parts. So i need to grab those off of a car from a junk yard... if i can find the right car. I also need to get a hold of a vacuum control valve and retrofit it to my IP.
 

1994Diesel

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I mocked up a mount for my vcv and it looks like it will work. With some minor tweeking the arm travel should be just right.
 

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