I heard some things i hope arn't true...

m67tang

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Concerning Turbo's,

I asked a mercedes specialist mechanic / owner and was told do not add turbo to non factory turbo MB diesel engines. Unlike IDI's or cummins there are too many things on the cars not able to withstand increased power. this includes- transmission, rear end, engine rods, head bolts ....
 

1994Diesel

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Hey guys, sorry for the dead activity on the thread. I have had finals this last week. I just got the car today. I will post pictures

Its a no start situation. The battery is good and the starter gets juice but when i measure the side of the starter that is supposed to get power when the ignition is applied there is no power going to the starter motor.
 

1994Diesel

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here are some pics. OH YA! By the way, when i went to go pick it up I discovered that it is in fact a 300D. I have no clue how i over looked that. The previous owner told me over the phone that it was 240D before i went to go look at it initially and i never really bothered to check.

The battery that the previous owner had in it was to small. Had only 525 cold cranking amps.

Also, that red battery light stays on even with they key removed. I dont know why that would be. It goes away when i turn the key all the way to attempt to start it.
 

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The Warden

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here are some pics. OH YA! By the way, when i went to go pick it up I discovered that it is in fact a 300D. I have no clue how i over looked that. The previous owner told me over the phone that it was 240D before i went to go look at it initially and i never really bothered to check.

The battery that the previous owner had in it was to small. Had only 525 cold cranking amps.

Also, that red battery light stays on even with they key removed. I dont know why that would be. It goes away when i turn the key all the way to attempt to start it.
Doesn't look too bad! Re: the red battery light, that happened to a buddy of mine with his '81 300SD...it turned out there was an internal short in the alternator. Had it rebuilt by a guy who knows what he's doing and all's well now.

Re: the no-start...I recall the 115 240D having a "gorilla knob" that you had to pull out partially to activate the glow plugs and all the way out to activate the starter; I don't remember if the 115 chassis 300D had it or not (although I tend to think it didn't). Beyond that...keep in mind that I haven't dealt with the 115 chassis, so I'm extrapolating from my experience with the 123 chassis, but I know that, on the 123, the key switch can fail...it's a multiple part system. There's the key cylinder itself, and there's a rotary switch behind the key (you have to remove the key cylinder to get to it), and behind that there's a vacuum valve that applies vacuum to the "STOP" lever on the injector pump to shut the engine off. I would pull the key cylinder and take a look at the switch...see if everything's making contact and whether there's power.

Hope this helps some...good luck!
 

1994Diesel

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Doesn't look too bad! Re: the red battery light, that happened to a buddy of mine with his '81 300SD...it turned out there was an internal short in the alternator. Had it rebuilt by a guy who knows what he's doing and all's well now.

Re: the no-start...I recall the 115 240D having a "gorilla knob" that you had to pull out partially to activate the glow plugs and all the way out to activate the starter; I don't remember if the 115 chassis 300D had it or not (although I tend to think it didn't). Beyond that...keep in mind that I haven't dealt with the 115 chassis, so I'm extrapolating from my experience with the 123 chassis, but I know that, on the 123, the key switch can fail...it's a multiple part system. There's the key cylinder itself, and there's a rotary switch behind the key (you have to remove the key cylinder to get to it), and behind that there's a vacuum valve that applies vacuum to the "STOP" lever on the injector pump to shut the engine off. I would pull the key cylinder and take a look at the switch...see if everything's making contact and whether there's power.

Hope this helps some...good luck!

Thanks! This gives me somewhere to start looking. I have concluded the starter is shot since jumping the starter solenoid does nothing except for a small click but it seems to be coming from the ip side of the engine.

I know that this 300D has an Idle adjustment knob(of course its broken off) but im sure that wouldnt prevent it from starting.
 

The Warden

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Thanks! This gives me somewhere to start looking. I have concluded the starter is shot since jumping the starter solenoid does nothing except for a small click but it seems to be coming from the ip side of the engine.

I know that this 300D has an Idle adjustment knob(of course its broken off) but im sure that wouldnt prevent it from starting.
I imagine the broken part on the idle adjustment knob is just the plastic key...if so, they're not hard to find. In any event, that won't prevent the car from starting...worst-case, the idle will be too low and you'll have to hold the pedal slightly to keep the engine running.

I would replace the starter and go from there...you'll need a set of Allen-head sockets to get the bolts out, but otherwise it isn't TOO difficult (other than being a PITA to get to)...my guess is you'll do better to pull it from above. I would suggest finding a quality rebuilder...my experience has been that auto parts store starters for German cars are VERY hit-and-miss. Last time I replaced a starter for an M-B, I had to take the first three back and even #4 sometimes didn't want to work, and I had a similar experience trying to do the starter on a '74 VW Bug I owned back in high school...
 

1994Diesel

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Thanks for the link.

Getting that starter out is going to be a PITA. I think i may get it rebuilt since it is relatively newer.

Also, i thought these things were supposed to have oilbath filters. The filter was dry. oh well, im ordering a hanes manual soon to guide me through this restoration of functionality.
 

1994Diesel

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I ordered a remaned starter bebuilt by usa industries. It should be here by friday. Im nervous. The moment of truth is nearing.LOL
 

1994Diesel

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The starter was not shipped until Thursday.... kinda slow... i ordered it last Tuesday.

It should be here this Tuesday.

I did a under car inspection to kill time and found almost nothing noticeably wrong. Most bushings look good, a small fuel leak right at the rubber hose coming from the tank, the front brake pads are done for and the rear brakes look great.

Is the oil filter supposed to be an oil bath filter?
 

1994Diesel

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The starter was not shipped until Thursday.... kinda slow... i ordered it last Tuesday.

It should be here this Tuesday.

I did a under car inspection to kill time and found almost nothing noticeably wrong. Most bushings look good, the drive line is good, a small fuel leak right at the rubber hose coming from the tank, the front brake pads are done for, and the rear brakes look great.

Is the air filter supposed to be an oil bath filter?
 

The Warden

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I don't think it's an oil bath filter, but it IS a cannister-type filter and should have a replaceable element inside of the cannister. The 115 engines may be different, though...I know the 115 engines' oil filter assemblies are a different design and you have to access them from underneath the car, as opposed to the later engines where you access the oil filter from above.

FWIW this is what an oil filter looks like from a 123/116/126 61X engine...

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That sucks re: the starter shipping late...unfortunately I've dealt with similar before. Gets REAL annoying at times!! -cuss
 
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