I have a leaker after injector replacement

johneich

John, 1983 F250
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Note-this was also a IP replacement

The diesel comes out the top of the cap, I refreshed all of the caps, lines, rebuilt injectors with new tips, which were then pop and spray tested by my local IP rebuilder, new copper washer is in right, the steel line to injector is as tight as I dare to tighten it (tight as I can with a flare wrench, not stripped), the injector is as tight as I dare to tighten it (35fp plus a little when I saw it leaking)

My questions are:
1) is there a step by step procedure for this, I see it as three things, O-rings or cap or return lines. I am ruling out return lines for right now, I have no new caps.
2) start with cap or O-rings or both?, I would like to know which it is for future reference.
3) I have old caps in reasonable condition, shall I use them before or after o-rings?

PS She started easy tonight and runs smooth, not as much (white/grey)smoke, 2nd (day) start after install rebuilt IP & injectors, driven about a mile up to 25 mph, strong, smooth power.

John

Thanks again to everyone for getting me this far.
 
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icanfixall

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Did you replace the plastic return line cap and the o-rings... If you didn't do one or the other do it now because this leak will never seal up... Are the injector hard line vibration clamps (2 per side of the engine) on the lines...
 

johneich

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Yes, o-rings are new as supplied from Pensacola Diesel, new plastic return line caps from Pensacola Diesel, vibration clamps are in place. I have plenty of extra Viton O-rings, no new caps, just the ones I saved before refresh. It smokes, grey-white, a bit at start up, much less after warmed up.
 
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Simp5782

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I had the issue when i did my injectors as well. i used a socket and extension and placed them down on the caps and used slight force to push em down and they would pop on. they leaked a tiny bit before i did that and then it solved the issue. I replaced O rings and caps before i figured it out.
 

johneich

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I have done everything I can think of, and its just a little better, I pulled the injector, cleaned the seat again, used a new copper washer, new Viton O-rings, the hoses are tight, it was nice and dry when I put it back together, once warmed up was leaking again, not as bad as at first, but still too bad. It is oozing at the top of the cap, but I can not tell if it is the steel line to injector leaking down or comming from the cap up. The steel line it tight and the injector is in tight.
 

fastass350

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I'd probably focus on the cap and orings. Maybe an oring got cut a little when the cap went on, which is pretty common. Or maybe the cap is split, or worn out, or just a plain bad cap?
 

johneich

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Thanks Chris, I used Vaseline on the o-rings both times, I have no 90 degree caps but am ordering Typ4's whole kit just to take the 90 degree out, he said something about deburring them and I did not do that nor do I know how to do deburr.
 

SLC97SR5

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Thanks Chris, I used Vaseline on the o-rings both times, I have no 90 degree caps but am ordering Typ4's whole kit just to take the 90 degree out, he said something about deburring them and I did not do that nor do I know how to do deburr.

De-burring is removing the plastic parts mold flashing from the new cap. Sometimes the flashing is sharp/thick enough to cut the 0-ring. Sometimes it is small enough to not allow the 0-ring to fully seat when the cap is pushed over the injector.

A simple twist around the cap with a razor blade or X-atco knife will do the trick.
 

RLDSL

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Silly question, but are you running a bunch of power service or other really dry type fuel additives right now? That might not be helping any while trying to seat in new seals, also are you dead sure that the caps were pushed *all* the way down? they will give you a click and can fake you out. it it looks like the nut from the metal line is almost resting on the plastic cap, then the plastic cap is nowhere near bottomed out and they will **** fuel all over the place Sometimes it takes an extra wiggle and giggle while pushing down to get the things to seat all the way down solid. the gap area under the threads on teh injector will be sticking out above the cap when it is fully seated
 

johneich

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RLDSL, just running pump diesel, it went down and clicked, looks just like you say and like the other 7 injectors.
 

gatorman21218

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I just did my ip/injectors this weekend too, and I had a leaking cap on the #5 injector. I changed the o-rings and put an old cap on and it fixed the leak. So my advice to you is to put new o-rings on that injector and change the cap if you have a spare.
 

johneich

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Hi Jim bob, I would use an old cap but my new kit uses a 90 degree on #7 (my trouble one) my old one used a stright through cap, I will try that, have to go by some more fuel line to do it, I m going to buy Typ4's kit Friday, aint got the $35.00 cash until payday.
 

johneich

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I did that last night Jimbob, I am thinking about swapping injectors, maybe with #1 so it will be easier to deal with than #7, then it might give me an idea what is wrong.
 

gatorman21218

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hmm well before you swap injectors, try swapping caps. Maybe the cap is bad. I know you dont have any spares. but you could swap 7 and 8 and see what happens.
 

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