hydroboost units - $80

[u2slow]

I used the F450 booster and moved the pin on the pedal. (3/4" upward) Then I slotted the bolt holes on the M/C to bolt them together.

FYI, only the new Ford units seem to have the M/C pushrod and spring included. Remans lack these pieces.

 

[NapaBavarian]

NO NO NO, go pull your own for $24

http://www.picknpull.com/part_prici...nglish&NavItem=1&SearchCriteria=&#partpricing

But wait! Read below!

http://www.picknpull.com/events_and_specials.aspx

See? Half off! That's $10.50 + $2.99 = $13.49 that's where he got his!


Those astro boosters are all over P-n-P, sometimes you can find them on HD trucks too

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Damon, I personally do not trust all-tread because I haven't been able to find it readily available in Grade-8 variety at most hardware stores. I'd advise against extending the factory studs because while the holes in the mounting plate and the firewall are very close they are not exactly the same, long bolt will self-adjust for the slight off angle, but studs that are pressed into the plate will not and you may realize you're just a tad off at the firewall but off enough to where the studs don't quite slide in place. I personally thing the long bolts arrangement is best in this situation, unless you make some fancy spacer between the hydro and the firewall (and not my redneck-engineered mess) that has two sets of studs welded on it - one for the hydro and the other for the firewall.

 

[RLDSL]

NO NO NO, go pull your own for $24

http://www.picknpull.com/part_prici...nglish&NavItem=1&SearchCriteria=&#partpricing

But wait! Read below!

http://www.picknpull.com/events_and_specials.aspx

See? Half off! That's $10.50 + $2.99 = $13.49 that's where he got his!


Those astro boosters are all over P-n-P, sometimes you can find them on HD trucks too

I just yanked one off a suburban yesterday, it was $22 after the core charge even on half price day( complete MC with booster is normally $29 + core )

 

[NapaBavarian]

I just yanked one off a suburban yesterday, it was $22 after the core charge even on half price day( complete MC with booster is normally $29 + core )

Good deal any way you look at it my price was booster only

 

[RLDSL]

Actually this all depends on the pedal pushrod length - I have a Suburban hydroboost with the 2" too long pushrod and never had to mess with any pedal swaps, just shim the bottom of the plate a bit more than the top and tilt the whole unit back some 15 degrees or so. In that sense a GM hydro from a Burb or fullsize truck is a much easier install than the F-Superduty hydro with its pedal swap mess. Again tho it really depends on pushrod length, longer than the our factory vacuum booster rod is fine, but shorter would be a problem that's only solved with a welder...

What year was the burb you used and did you use teh burb master cyl or did you bolt up the original one from the truck to the hydro booster?
I forgot to get the year off the burb I yanked mine off at the boneyard and if I use it's MC I'll need to get a rebuild kit for it. It appears that chevy owners are adept at loosing MC covers as all the hydroboost units in the yard had missing MC covers .

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Rob, it was a mid-'80s Suburban, and '84 or an '85 IIRC. All trucks of that general body style use the same boosters tho, so you can go all the way up to '91 IIRC. I did not use the Chev master as I wasn't sure what it's gonna do the RABS, plus my factory unit works great, so I just oblonged the F350 master cylinders mounting holes out a bit (think she only needs 1/16" per side to make up for the overall 1/8" difference between the hydroboost and vacuum booster studs spacing) and bolted it right back on.

 

[RLDSL]

Rob, it was a mid-'80s Suburban, and '84 or an '85 IIRC. All trucks of that general body style use the same boosters tho, so you can go all the way up to '91 IIRC. I did not use the Chev master as I wasn't sure what it's gonna do the RABS, plus my factory unit works great, so I just oblonged the F350 master cylinders mounting holes out a bit (think she only needs 1/16" per side to make up for the overall 1/8" difference between the hydroboost and vacuum booster studs spacing) and bolted it right back on.

That sounds great. I'll just ditch the otehr master then, It's a rust bucket Thanks.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well you can get a Fenco reman master for the Chev for like $30 or so at AutoZone, the Ford parts are way north of that price, even reman! That alone would be a good reason to replace the F-Superduty with a Chev master, cause they both got the 1-5/16" bore but the Chev is so much cheaper and also directly matches the Chev hydroboost...

Oh, one other detail - the plunger that comes out of the Chev hydroboost and actuates the master cylinder's piston is much shorter that the vacuum booster plunger, so if you directly bolt the Ford master to the Chev hydroboost there will be a lot of free play at the pedal before the plunger starts pushing on the piston - I think I jammed two small nuts down the blind hole in the F350 master cylinder piston to take up that slack, JB-welded them in place for ease of assembly and disassembly too, so do some measuring first - should be very easy since you have the Chev master too, just measure how deep the blind hole is in both units and make-shift some spacer for the difference.

 

[RLDSL]

Well you can get a Fenco reman master for the Chev for like $30 or so at AutoZone, the Ford parts are way north of that price, even reman! That alone would be a good reason to replace the F-Superduty with a Chev master, cause they both got the 1-5/16" bore but the Chev is so much cheaper and also directly matches the Chev hydroboost...

Oh, one other detail - the plunger that comes out of the Chev hydroboost and actuates the master cylinder's piston is much shorter that the vacuum booster plunger, so if you directly bolt the Ford master to the Chev hydroboost there will be a lot of free play at the pedal before the plunger starts pushing on the piston - I think I jammed two small nuts down the blind hole in the F350 master cylinder piston to take up that slack, JB-welded them in place for ease of assembly and disassembly too, so do some measuring first - should be very easy since you have the Chev master too, just measure how deep the blind hole is in both units and make-shift some spacer for the difference.

I might just go with a reman cheby unit. I checked around and it appears napa is about the only ones with a rebuild kit and they cost as much as a whole rebuilt unit at Advance after my commercial discount It would be nice to have a fresh one in there and not have to rig it to fit.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yeah, that's what I'll be doing too when my master springs an internal bypass leak, even if the lines come in from the wrong side I can always bend me some new ones.