Hydroboost conversion - having issues

[93turbo_animal]

heck yeah I'd cut the pin off your old one and weld a new one on in the right place. If clearence is an issue and yo don't have room for the weld bead drill a hole thru the arm and weld the pin from the other side

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Mel,

In your other post on the aftermarket hydro system they had a machined piece that looks like it's meant to compensate for the offset. Maybe they sell them seperately and could shoot you one out quick so you could use your old pedal

Great idea, but I don't think it will work - the rod is held in place in the booster by a crimped connection, and at least I am not aware of any way to disassemble and then reassemble one. So far relocating the pin seems to be the best idea, just make sure the new weld is good and strong, and I'd probably weld up the old hole in the pedal too.

 

[Agnem]

Well I could weld up a pin if I wanted to go that route. I just figured with all the parts hounds we have around here, I could get lucky.

 

[subway]

if you got to moving the pin i would drill it through then weld it from the backside. it would be much stronger this way letting the metal in the pedal support the pin mosly instead of having the weld in a shear-torque transferring the stress to the pedal if you just welded it flat on.

 

[riotwarrior]

if you got to moving the pin i would drill it through then weld it from the backside. it would be much stronger this way letting the metal in the pedal support the pin mosly instead of having the weld in a shear-torque transferring the stress to the pedal if you just welded it flat on.

X2 for the strength of the pin right through the pedal arm.....

 

[Full Monte]

Just saw this thread. Mel, sorry if the article didn't address all your issues. The reason is that this was my "one-and-only" hydroboost conversion, and it went smooth as silk on the pedal-arm, push-rod assembly. I guess I just lucked out with the year/make/model match of both the donor truck and the '86. You are correct about the plumbing adapter issue. There are tons of kinds of fittings and adapters. I found that the best way to handle the adapter problems was to take the actual fittings down to the appropriate "professional" plumbing supplier in town and get them to provide the correct fittings/adapters. The place to do this is not the local hardware store, but a hydraulic fitting supplier. We have one here called Royal Brass and they can do it all, from making new hydraulic hoses while you wait (with swaged and threaded ends), to supplying any kind of fitting you need (all in stock). There's usually a line of truckers and caterpillar repair guys waiting to be served.

Don't feel bad about not getting it done in one day. It took me three days by the time I did all the parts-chasing and making a couple mistakes.

On the pedal, could you cut what you need off both pedal arms and weld the pieces together to make the pedal arm you need?

Monte

 

[Agnem]

Well cutting the arms is also an option. I guess if it comes right down to it and I have to make something, I'll probably just add another pin. Yes, I will make it just like the pin that is in it already, including turning the pin on the lathe and chamfering the outer edge. Just didn't want to have to go that route. I'd rather spend an evening putting it back together then spending an evening building the right brake pedal. That, and the research to find the right parts may help the next guy who doesn't own a welder or know how to use it. I solved the plumbing problems at my Ford dealer. On the power steering pump end, I am replaceing the fitting that is part of the power steering pump. That way the hose doesn't need modification. The brake lines are adaptable with bushings and what not. I think in the end the damn pedal is going to be the biggest pain of the whole job.

 

[icanfixall]

About cutting two peddles to make one... These peddles are not just some everyday cold rolled metal. The composition is designed for a little more strength than something you can just go out and buy from a scrapper or metel supply yard. I personally could never trust a peddle that was cut in half and welded. I was a certified welder capable of welding some exotic metals like stainless, inconel and such. If you must weld this contact typ4. Russ did reposition his pin for just this problem. I got lucky when I found my hydroboost at the wrecker. I got everything off the same truck. Even the master cylinder because it was new. It looked like someone had just installed it and drove it to the wrecker or at least soon after installing it. What diameter is the peddle you need? I can go-a-hunting if you like. Gives me an excuse to search the wrecking yard looking for treasures.... Just be careful with the welding. You don't want the peddle that stops the truck doing something funny on you....

 

[Agnem]

Yea well that's been my reason for wanting to find a factory pedal that I can just use without modification. I don't like to skimp on a lot of things, and I want to source parts that are as OEM as possible. If I want to run something I have to make all my own parts for, I'll get a steam locomotive. I'll wait until next monday before I start modifying my old pedal. I'll make a pin, drill a hole, and weld it on the back like the factory did.

 

[Full Monte]

True-enough on the pedal reliability issue. I think everyone would agree you don't want a pedal arm that comes apart during use. I haven't looked at the problem too closely, but sometimes putting a plate of metal across a weld on the back side and welding the whole thing will strengthen the assembly enough to minimize the chance of butt-weld failure. It also increases the welding surface area substantially.