HPOP fitting size

[tonkadoctor]

Getting ready to do a little custom plumbing ...HX mod and HP gauge, LP gauge, fuel pressure gauge & a boost gauge too for the hell of it...She's still giving me fits when cold first thing in the morning so I gotta see what's really going on inside...She's starting to **** me off as good as it runs and crappy as it starts dead cold without being plugged in. About ready to do a glow plug/intake air heater delete and install a "Quick Start" 3cc shot Dimethyl Ether injection back to old school mod.

Thinking about making new lines from the HPOP to the heads too, while I'm at it, and wondering what size fittings are on the HPOP...I know the fittings in the heads are AN -5 O-ring boss and wondering if the HPOP fittings are the same or what without pulling them.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

TD just checked my spares, at the hpop the dia is approx .560
at the head it is .500
threads look a little different also.

Fits starting cold the running good warm in my experiances is injectors
hell I got a 6 .0 here that wont start unless plugged in, then when it fires dont even try to drive it for 15 minutes, then once she hit 200 degrees, runs great.
other possibility is gp relay, even if they look good they can be bad.
Nick

 

[tonkadoctor]

Thanks Nick. I'm about ready to drop it off with you and say "FIX IT"

Think I'll leave the HPOP lines alone for right now as they aren't leaking and concentrate on getting some diagnostic gauges set up.

This is a real fun one to figure out, she fired right up today (plugged in) like nothing is wrong with it If I didn't plan on using this truck for long trips I wouldn't worry about it so much.

GP relay tested fine both time on and voltage drop out.

I have a feeling it's fuel related in some way either fuel pressure too low or high pressure too low, sensor problem or mabey the injectors are tired too and not liking the cold thick oil. Kills me when it has no trouble codes.

The LP oil problem is fixed and that part of it's working properly.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

plugged in will make a difference.
had a bad set in a 94 sd, new gps, new gp relay, etc fp ok, was showing a hp oil leak ipr had 28% duty cycle.
in the 70 degree garage, fired right up, put it out in the 50's forget it it wouldnt fire. tr4uck run good when warmed up though
dropped a set of injectors and motocraft gps in and she fires in 20 deg weather right now.
sent the injectors out to swamps to be rebuilt ended up needing barrells and plugers.
what Im sayin is Ive seen em bad as far as starting cold and runnin cold, but run fine warm
and no codes present , even pass cyl contribution test.
Nick

 

[tonkadoctor]

Yep, That's how she's acting...

Ordered hose, fittings and gauges to plug into the HPOP, fuel lines and LP oil to see how that stuff is actually acting. Gonna run a few more tests then it's pop the valve covers run a compression test and send the injectors out to be tested and rebuilt if needed.

This is bringing back memories of an '87 T bird I worked on for a friend that had a fuel pump that was dying a slow death...started and ran fine until you shut it off then it wouldn't start for a couple hours, sometimes it would restart fine...diagnosing it was a real PITA.

There's definatly something or a couple somethings dying the slow painfull death that won't throw a code.....YET and I wish it would just break, let me tow it home, fix it and be done with it.

It's all good though, gives me something to do that I actually do like. I knew she had issues before I bought it on the cheap, it's paid for and I don't need a new $50,000 - $60,000 truck.

Prolly should give Swamps a call and start saving up some more play money.

 

[geonc]

Mike....ya tried that EOT sensor yet

Why doncha give Bean a go on the squirters

 

[tonkadoctor]

Mike....ya tried that EOT sensor yet

Why doncha give Bean a go on the squirters

Hav'nt had a chance to start advanced PSD troubleshooting part II yet to check the EOT voltage or much of anything else either, I generally won't throw a part at it unless I know for a fact it has failed, I like to troubleshoot everything as much as possible first. I'll get more in depth on the troubleshooting when the gauges get here, had to go back to work on the kitchen before I was beat by Mama so fer now it's just limp it like it is for another week or so till I get a nice day to play outside again.

IMHO Bean's a little too proud of his $$$$$tuff .....Scares me too when he says this on his web site "You will receive a refund from us by check via certified mail less the cost of repairs to your cores. Example: If you need $150 in repairs to your cores we will subtract that from your $800 core charge and give you a refund of $650."

Hell , if my cores didn't need repairs I wouldn't be buying new injectors and if that's the case just fix my cores and send them back to me instead of selling them to somebody else at an inflated price after I paid for the repairs.

I'm prolly misinterpreting this a bit but day-um, I have never seen a rebuilder state some stuff like that before. I could understand a core rejection/charge if it's missing parts or been run over by a truck.

Did have a good long talk with Dave at Swamp's. He thinks the injector Poppet valves might be topping out (instead of bottoming out which is more common) and told me to pull the solenoids off to see if the armatures are contacting the solenoids or if the adjustment screws were loose as well as check the clearances with a feeler gauge to see if it's touching or too close. Said these will cause the hard start & runs rough cold but runs great warm problems. Surprised that he could take the time to try to teach me how to check and troubleshoot an injector like this Most would sit there and try too hard sell you on a product....that alone earns my respect and business.

BTW GEO.....How'd ya sneak outa work and get on a puter by 5:43PM...most of the time I call ya at 0 dark 30 yer fightin RDU traffic trying to get home.

 

[geonc]

You might get charged after core inspection from any builder if certian high dollar parts are damaged....mebee Jonathan is different

I'm sure times have changed but at Detroit Diesel , tip damage/plungers/barrels while considered consumable items were charged if heavily scored or tip damage from FOD/water contamination.
P+B's can be polished out and tips cleaned/reamed if within perscribed limits.

I came home early for 2 reasons....had an early jobsite inspection for a metal stair we are building for a condo and 2 finally had decent temps{ read above freezing overnite} to pour some old concrete for the new mailbox and post .....

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

TD
I have installed many sets of swamps injectors, doth babys and rebuilt stock ones, hell I got 2 stock ones on the shelf just incase.
true if parts are needed it will cost more, thats why if ya got the time send your own that way if new parts are needed they go into yours not the next guys.
I usually have a set of cores here to send out for rebuild. in fact I have a set now.
downside is if a set needs more parts , Im screwed because the truck they come out of is long gone.
if ya needs plungers and barrels that alone adds $75-100 per injector.
so that 1100 set of injectors gets to be 1900 really quick.
personally I would rather know ahead of time rather than pay then wait for the refund.
never dealt with bean, but I can say jonathan and dave at swamps are great.
Nick

 

[tonkadoctor]

If she gets to being $1900 for injectors there better be a set of brand spanking new AC stage 1 or 2 injectors going in it. At that point it isn't worth paying for remans when AC will take the cores as is.

I can buy the plungers and barrels for $300 for all 8 of them and I'm just a little guy on the block.

I won't accept any surprises or be waiting on a core refund, if I purchase injectors it will be a set price with a money order included with the cores.

We'll see what come up on the next round of diagnostic testing, my guages, hose and fittings will be in tomorrow