How to tighten injector lines at pump?

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
Leaking injector line at pump?

Could use any tips on this pronto as I'm about to start pulling lines or the whole pump in a bit... Any trick to getting to the lower injector lines with the pump installed? #8 is leaking at the pump and I'm not sure if there's a trick or tool to work for that, if removing other lines gets me access, or if I should remove the pump and lines together.

Long version is truck developed a miss on Christmas after a couple hours on the highway pushing 3000-3300 RPM and 6-10 psi. Didn't notice it at highway speed but down to idle and lower RPM it was missing and that diesel smell wasn't the gas station I just passed... Fuel inlet into pump was leaking as well as #8. Tightened the inlet fitting and that doesn't seem to be leaking now, but not sure the best way to get at #8. Hate to pull the pump and retime and such as as I really need a new pump and injectors so don't want to do it twice. If I could get something today I'd probably just do the needful with pump/injectors/glow plugs and be done with it while I've got that miserable Banks box off it.
 
Last edited:

OLDBULL8

Good Morning Ya'll.
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Posts
9,923
Reaction score
342
Location
Delphos , Ohio
I think you might mean #2 or7, they are on the bottom. If your gonna pull the IP, just leave the lines on, with a little wiggle they come out. Check and see if that leaking line is cracked, if you don't have all 4 line clamps on, it could very well be cracked.
 

Attachments

  • e2y9etyj.jpg
    e2y9etyj.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 44
  • IP Cylinder numbers.JPG
    IP Cylinder numbers.JPG
    96.2 KB · Views: 47

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
Yes, #2... Must have gone crosseyed looking at the lines. I did manage to get a crows foot in there and try to tighten, would not go tighter. Loosened it a bit and retightened. Still leaked. Loosened again and loosened at injector, wiggled line a bit as tightening. Repeat that a couple times and still leaks. Not sure if I just an not able to get it tight enough at an odd angle with crows foot and extension or what.

I am missing the first clamp on drivers side bank of lines, I can see on the lines where it used to clamp over all 4. The second clamp over three lines is there. My lines do not look exactly like that diagram. Wonder if it's cracked. I think I'll need to pull the pump and see what's going on.

At least it's an obvious reason for the misfire. I was worried at first I broke some hard parts running that hard for so long, first time I just let it scream because folks here say they're made to run on the governor all day. I'll ponder this for a bit and see if anyone else chimes in, if not I think I'll pull the pump and get a closer look at that line. Before the flood of warnings, I know not to pull the tower and avoid the timing gear nightmare. Is it common for the lined to crack right at the pump fitting?
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
Sorry to tell you that line is cracked. Anytime your missing the line clamps you will break or crack a line. How did the clamp end up missing and how long have you driven it this way.
 

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
Clamp has been missing as long as I've had the truck unless it fell off at some point, so that would be 14,000 miles with me and who knows how long with PO. I never noticed it was missing, but didn't know to look for it as this is my first IDI.

I removed the line and inspected. It is difficult to tell if the line is cracked or if the marks I see are from either the flare or the nut tightened down. It did not leak while holding the pump end low with my finger over it and spraying brake cleaner in the injector end. Of course that's a far cry from 1800 psi. I cleaned and reinstalled and still leaking. It was originally spraying a mist out between teh nut and line, at one point the mist changed to be sporaying out the same around but towards the bottom as opposed to the top. Now no mist but weeping/dripping out between the nut and line.

Video of the leak. About 27 seconds you can see it weeping and dripping fairly clearly.

http://youtu.be/mZlViq2GZgQ

Pics:

Here you can see the lines. The clamp I removed on right side if the onyl one present on that side. Looks like there should be another that goes over all 4 lines where they come together after the pump.

You must be registered for see images attach


The #2 line at fitting where it looks like either a crack or wear.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


The leak:
You must be registered for see images attach


I've had this thing loose/tight about a dozen or more times and off and back on once and while the nature or amount of leak has changed just a little sometimes it does not look like it's gonna stop. I'm guessing the prognosis is a cracked line then? Should I be replacing all the lines on this side that was missing the clamp? Anyone have a good used set of lines or just a #2 line? What is the best place to buy them new? Best source/brand for the injector line clamps?

Maybe I should just bite the bullet and do the whole fuel system and see if Mel can hook me up, his shop is only about 70 miles away...
 
Last edited:

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
Thats a crack. Sorry but a new or used line is needed. Any number 2 line will work. Meaning it can be from a van truck or international 1600 dump type truck. Or uhaul rental rigs. Please get the line vibration damper too and install it. I trick I discovered years ago about those way too short bolts. Increase the length to either 3/4 or 1 inch. Then stick the nut to an open end wrench with some electrical tape. Use a small pair of channel locks to hold the 2 part clamp together and stick the longer bolt thru the clamp. My fingers wont work holding the nut under the clamp so I figured this method out to ease the job.
 

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
Do the injector line clamps wear out? Rubber get old/brittle/shrink? Should I replace the whole set of clamps since they're 30 years old? Considering ordering from http://thedieselstore.com. $98 shipped for #2 injector line, pump install kit with orings and olives, 3x 3 line clamps and 1x 4 line clamp. On eBay there is a full set of van lines and clamps for $100 starting bid or a whole pump/injectors/lines/clamps from a pickup for $100 starting bid (+$25 shipping). Don't need an old worn out pump and injectors so thinking new is the way to go.
 

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
Went ahead and ordered the parts from TheDieselStore. They were mentioned in another thread here about injector lines and seem to be about the best price from the few places I saw that sell new lines (none of the usual chains sell them). 5% discount today so that sealed the deal. Hopefully they ship Monday AM so I can get this sorted mid-week. Would still be a convenient time to do IP and injectors... We'll see.

For now I'm stuck driving the 460 truck. Loads of fun to have all that power and torque but the risk is a $200 emissions tax from the law man every time I drive it, despite getting nearly twice the MPG of most other big block trucks. Added bonus fun is since it sat unused for so many months mice seem to have got in and made a mess of it. Such is life.
 

quickster

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Posts
638
Reaction score
259
Location
S Carolina
emissions tax? you mean it isn't inspected, right? I'm in Jersey and never heard of that. That's the left coast's nightmare.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
Good deal on that set of lines. If you bought a set of lines for a van engine application be sure to move the timing adapter from number 1 hard line to the number 4 hard line. Of just use the truck number 4 hard line. The van hard line kits have a shorter number 4 line because the old unused timing adapter is found on that cylinder instead of on number 1 cylinder. If we want to eliminate this adapter for either the truck or van lines we just buy the hard line for the other application.
The vibration clamp rubbers don't wear out but replacing them illuminates all doubt.
 

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
emissions tax? you mean it isn't inspected, right? I'm in Jersey and never heard of that. That's the left coast's nightmare.

It's our nightmare too unfortunately. Not inspected/government approved. Truck was originally a 351w and now is a 460. Automatic fail if they notice it's not a small block as VIN says. They won't test it as a 460 even though the engine I built came out of the same year truck and I had all the factory smog stuff, I tried to do it the legal way. Bottom line is a $200 surprise tax anywhere from never to as often as multiple times a day depending on how bored the police are that day. The State heavily fined and even shut down a few shops in the area that were selling stickers, so my sources dried up. After being protected and served to the tune of $200 a few times I bought the IDI to not have to deal with government permission to drive to work. NJ is like little California when it comes to this liberal nonsense.
 

quickster

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Posts
638
Reaction score
259
Location
S Carolina
Ok gotcha on that. My sticker guy stopped too so I stay on side roads most of the time. Stay off 22. NJ is like little California when it comes to this liberal nonsense. How true!
 

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
The line and clamps still have not shipped. Waiting to hear back from thedieselstore.com for an approximate ship date. I have a feeling they are one of those places that does not stock anything. Hopefully I'll find out tomorrow what the deal is, I was hoping to have these by the weekend as it's usually a 2 day ground shipment from that region. If I knew it was going to be like this I would have tried other sources either new or used since I'm off this week and it's convenient to get things done.

Got some valve cover gaskets and working on cleaning up and painting some bits, hopefully seal up some leaks. Pass side was definitely a leaker at the back. Several of the hard to get to bolts were only finger tight and these was some gooped on RTV. PO made an effort, but only half assed it.

What's the deal with these 6.9 aluminum rocker pivots? They wear out quick? Quick grip and shake and none feel loose or lacking preload. May pull and inspect them for excessive wear since this is a problem area. It's a bit black and grimy under the valve covers so I may try to clean that up as much as I can. No significant built up sludge or crustiness though.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
Those aluminum pos 6.9 rockers are no longer available and thats a good thing too. Its like many other parts on the idi engine are now upgraded or no longer available. Like the non turbo oil cooler bundles. Now only the turbo bundle is available. Ats a good thing. Non turbo head gaskets no longer available either. Only turbo head gaskets now. The list goes on too.
 

dunk

Dunce
Joined
Oct 25, 2013
Posts
991
Reaction score
4
Location
NJ
Just wanted to add that I received the line and clamps from thedieselstore.com today. Since I got a second email confirming processing I expected another when it shipped but no biggie. Under a week isn't bad at all considering the holidays. Line looks like decent quality, comparable to original. Hopefully with new clamps I won't have further issues with the hard lines.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
93,030
Posts
1,156,239
Members
26,618
Latest member
Nathanelliott44

Members online

Top