How slow on a 10mi long 6% grade?
- Thread starter Cubey
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ocnorb
IDIT
If it has that many turns and curves you won’t be the only one going slow. So I’m betting your RV does just fine. The turbo will alleviate most of the altitude issues.
My F-350 doesn’t seem to have much problems on roads like that; I just have to understand that when the road straightens back out it may take a bit longer than traffic to get back up to speed. I think most people realize that you are “peddling as hard as you can” and will have patience with you. Especially down there; I’ve not run into too many jerks in traffic in that area.
My F-350 doesn’t seem to have much problems on roads like that; I just have to understand that when the road straightens back out it may take a bit longer than traffic to get back up to speed. I think most people realize that you are “peddling as hard as you can” and will have patience with you. Especially down there; I’ve not run into too many jerks in traffic in that area.
Kevin 007
Full-floater
Yup I wouldn't worry much about it, even if you didn't have a turbo. Yes it will be slow, yes 1st gear will be used at least a little. 1st is pretty high in a C6 so you'll be able to keep the revs up in the high 2000's and not be SUPER slow. And with a turbo, you will certainly be ok power wise and shouldn't be leaving a trail of smoke like a n/a would
I decided against the route due to colder temps at that higher altitude.
Has anyone here driven the first 10 or so miles of i70 east bound in Utah, where it starts by i15? That was crazy slow, it got me down to 35mph in 2nd gear with 198*F water and around 1,000-1,100*F EGT. Outside temperature here today is about 55*F.
I have noticed it puffs out some black smoke when taking off from stops and feels a bit weaker starting around 6,000ft.
I wonder if it might help to lower the fuel pressure slightly so that it gets less fuel in ratio to the air? I have that "dial" style fuel pressure regulator in fairly easy reach, so it takes all of 1 second to change (once I'm laying on the ground to reach it).
I wonder if the turbo is starting to go bad maybe?
Has anyone here driven the first 10 or so miles of i70 east bound in Utah, where it starts by i15? That was crazy slow, it got me down to 35mph in 2nd gear with 198*F water and around 1,000-1,100*F EGT. Outside temperature here today is about 55*F.
I have noticed it puffs out some black smoke when taking off from stops and feels a bit weaker starting around 6,000ft.
I wonder if it might help to lower the fuel pressure slightly so that it gets less fuel in ratio to the air? I have that "dial" style fuel pressure regulator in fairly easy reach, so it takes all of 1 second to change (once I'm laying on the ground to reach it).
I wonder if the turbo is starting to go bad maybe?
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I don't think I'd bother with that, remember on these the amount of fuel is directly related to the throttle. If you think you need less fuel just letting up the throttle will accomplish that. I'd be more concerned with your timing moving or possibly starving the IP if you lower the fuel pressure.
Did you have a pressure gauge you can watch while driving? I'm wondering if it's still holding where you initially set it or not.
Sounds normal to me, puff of smoke at takeoff when the turbo isn't spooled. Harder starting, all points to normal for higher altitudes because of the less dense air?
ocnorb
IDIT
I’ve driven that in the past with my 440 Chrysler powered RV. IIRC it would bring me down to about 40mph going over those passes.
I’m usually coming from the North and take Hwy 6 which is much longer and steeper in general. In my IDI pulling my 5th wheel it will drop my speed to 35-40 going over the top.
I’m usually coming from the North and take Hwy 6 which is much longer and steeper in general. In my IDI pulling my 5th wheel it will drop my speed to 35-40 going over the top.
Earlier the same day it seemed to be doing okay on i15. Got me down to 45 in 2nd gear a few times with about the same max temps of 198/1000. EGT drops pretty quick if the throttle is let off a bit.
There is a bit of an exhaust leak which might not be helping the hill climbing.
I took a break by Cove Fort (by the i15/i70 junction) then continued on. So I figured it might have been normal for conditions since it was just an hour long stop.
Might have had a head wind too since I changed direction (from N or E). I did notice cross wind gusts on i15 that seemed like maybe they were coming from the east.
It's only 2 lanes there on i70, no third "climbing" lane like i15 has in many places, but there was almost no traffic by comparison. So I guess they just put up the signs about using flashers if you are going slow and left it at that.
It got me to the top without overheating anything at 35mph at slowest so I guess I can't really complain. It did the climb, just 35 in an 80 zone.
Maybe I'll forget about going to flaming gorge again. I went the mapped route below in 2017 in the NA F250 and yes it was very slow (20-25mph in 1st I think). It might be just a bit too much for this RV+ trailer, even with it's climbing lanes on the switchbacks.
Maybe if I go up the mountain without carrying the extra 23 gallons of fresh water in jugs (about 180lbs) it might help a little. Every bit less probably helps. I might be able to get the water once I'm at the top.
I often stay off grid for 2 weeks without moving, so the RV's fresh water tank isn't enough. Nor is grey but I use a shower tent and a shower bag. Dumping grey tank to the ground is gross and disgusting, since food particles are in it, and it tends to smell worse than the black tank. I know because I get wiffs of it when dumping the tanks. It would attract flies and ants and generally ruin the campsite. Shower water doesn't do that. Since my grey tank is fed from both the shower and kitchen sink, I have to treat it like black water really due to the rotting food particles.
Oh and this is where I am now for the next two weeks. I got the best spot in the free campground.
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Maybe if I go up the mountain without carrying the extra 23 gallons of fresh water in jugs (about 180lbs) it might help a little. Every bit less probably helps. I might be able to get the water once I'm at the top.
I often stay off grid for 2 weeks without moving, so the RV's fresh water tank isn't enough. Nor is grey but I use a shower tent and a shower bag. Dumping grey tank to the ground is gross and disgusting, since food particles are in it, and it tends to smell worse than the black tank. I know because I get wiffs of it when dumping the tanks. It would attract flies and ants and generally ruin the campsite. Shower water doesn't do that. Since my grey tank is fed from both the shower and kitchen sink, I have to treat it like black water really due to the rotting food particles.
Oh and this is where I am now for the next two weeks. I got the best spot in the free campground.
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wrecked
Full Access Member
The last couple clicks up to where the toll both plaza used to be on the coke (coquihalla, BC hwy5) has hundreds of blast craters where rv automatic transmissions have let go. Or big rigs have burnt to cinders... Glad you got to your honey spot without issue.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Food for thought.
1) These truck never won any high speed contests!
So its not how fast, rather as you are suggesting how slow do you need to go. At least you have a turbo!
2) Many have suggested pulling hard at low RPM's hurts the bottom end. So find a gear you can be in that sweet spot of 2,200-2,700 RPM.
3) Watch your gauges closely, you will know if its time to pull over and cool down.
4) Have your IP timing checked. Get the most out of that engine. Off timing can cause heat issues.
5) I know this sounds odd but if you can bring a new bug sprayer. If you are getting hot, pull over, leave the engine running (The fan will pull the mist through the radiator.) and spray via a mist of water towards the radiator. The spray will cool the trans cooler, radiator, and the humidty will strip some heat off the engine. If you have this issue consitently then run a hose from the cab to infront of the radiator and mist while driving as your temps raise, watch them drop, and repeat and rinse as needed. I am not suggesting a rain storm, simply a nice misting spray. Twice I have done this in friends vehicles struggling to go over mountain ranges and stay cool. This is less agressive than pulling over and throwing cold water on hot parts.
6) Low and slow seems to keep many of these trucks on the road even after 30 years and +100K or 200K,
Safe travels!
1) These truck never won any high speed contests!
So its not how fast, rather as you are suggesting how slow do you need to go. At least you have a turbo!2) Many have suggested pulling hard at low RPM's hurts the bottom end. So find a gear you can be in that sweet spot of 2,200-2,700 RPM.
3) Watch your gauges closely, you will know if its time to pull over and cool down.
4) Have your IP timing checked. Get the most out of that engine. Off timing can cause heat issues.
5) I know this sounds odd but if you can bring a new bug sprayer. If you are getting hot, pull over, leave the engine running (The fan will pull the mist through the radiator.) and spray via a mist of water towards the radiator. The spray will cool the trans cooler, radiator, and the humidty will strip some heat off the engine. If you have this issue consitently then run a hose from the cab to infront of the radiator and mist while driving as your temps raise, watch them drop, and repeat and rinse as needed. I am not suggesting a rain storm, simply a nice misting spray. Twice I have done this in friends vehicles struggling to go over mountain ranges and stay cool. This is less agressive than pulling over and throwing cold water on hot parts.
6) Low and slow seems to keep many of these trucks on the road even after 30 years and +100K or 200K,
Safe travels!
2: no factory tachs in vans at all before 92. I guess IDI vans didn't get E4ODs until 92 or the tach sensor is wired up without a tach gauge. I can't justify buying an aftermarket tach so no way to know the RPMs. I have to have the RPMs up in a lower gear to control EGTs though.
I have to drop down a gear if EGTs go to high, which does the trick, EGTs drop to safer levels (ie 900-1000). Thus far, I've never seen both temps get so bad that I had to stop. The last bit of the worst hill its been to, with a strong head wind, in NM got it down to 20-25 in 1st with EGT around 1000-1000 and water around 220 in a climbing lane, both safe temps still, just incredibly slow.
3: water temp has been perfectly fine. It has a newer thermostat and fan clutch (late 2019). EGT is what I have to watch carefully and let off the throttle or downshift to control. I do watch both carefully though.
4: I just had the timing done around November, so in theory it should be good. It was done in the DFW TX area though, so the elevation at which it was done might make a difference?
My complaint isn't about temperatures, it's about speed. I guess I'm just expecting too much out of the ATS 085 for what it's in. It probably brings the RV to the level of a mostly empty NA pickup.
It's front profile is almost as tall as some semi trucks, but with less aerodynamics.
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arizhntr
Registered User
25. ARIZONA HIGHWAY 77
(north of Tucson, AZ)
About 35 miles north of Tucson there is a northbound descent on highway 77. It is posted "7% next 12 miles" but it is not a steady grade. The 7% sections alternate with sections of mild grade. Even so, heat can build up in brakes on such a grade so use caution. It is a good two lane road with occasional climbing lanes and mild curves.
Before I installed the Banks pulling an older 26" fifthwheel (loaded around 9k) this would be a long 1st and occassionally 2nd gear pull, keeping the rpm's floating around 3K and the engine temp pushing 220.
The first pull after installing the banks I hit the bottom in 5th at around 60 MPH. At around a third of the way up I was still in 5th at 1/2 throttle with plenty to spare, around 2k RPM. I then looked at the pyrometer and was pushing 1100 deg, dropped a gear and drove the rest of the way at around 2500 RPM and the temp dropped to around 900 Deg. Plenty of power, just needed to keep the RPM's up.
(north of Tucson, AZ)
About 35 miles north of Tucson there is a northbound descent on highway 77. It is posted "7% next 12 miles" but it is not a steady grade. The 7% sections alternate with sections of mild grade. Even so, heat can build up in brakes on such a grade so use caution. It is a good two lane road with occasional climbing lanes and mild curves.
Before I installed the Banks pulling an older 26" fifthwheel (loaded around 9k) this would be a long 1st and occassionally 2nd gear pull, keeping the rpm's floating around 3K and the engine temp pushing 220.
The first pull after installing the banks I hit the bottom in 5th at around 60 MPH. At around a third of the way up I was still in 5th at 1/2 throttle with plenty to spare, around 2k RPM. I then looked at the pyrometer and was pushing 1100 deg, dropped a gear and drove the rest of the way at around 2500 RPM and the temp dropped to around 900 Deg. Plenty of power, just needed to keep the RPM's up.
Banks is probably a much better turbo than the ATS 085, which might be a factor.
Who knows how the IP is tuned in this either.
I found this old thread where it sounds like he had similar performance with Banks as I do with ATS 085.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/disappiontment-in-the-mountains.70885/
Who knows how the IP is tuned in this either.
I found this old thread where it sounds like he had similar performance with Banks as I do with ATS 085.
https://www.oilburners.net/threads/disappiontment-in-the-mountains.70885/
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