How do I manually shut off my heater?

[damac]

Also, since the coolant heater is passive im not sure if you should tee the heater hoses together with a valve between them too or not. I'm not sure if it would like the extra pressure since it's a passive system. Maybe someone else will know

Anybody got an answer to this? I am bringing my ac to life this week and just assumed if I took the heater core out of the loop that I would need 3 ball valves to shut off the heater core and then a line between the two to let the coolant flow the same way?


Also I yanked my whole dash apart and took out all the hvac stuff because it was so dirty and the blend doors weren't working well and it made me think the fan wasn't working well. I just dived in and unbolted it all to clean up and found tons of pens and garbage. Also clean your cowl drains, there are panels on the inside of each side of the truck to access inside, mine were so stuffed they couldn't keep up with a hose and flooded inside.

My hvac boxes had tons of rivets so I drilled them out and replaced with my own nuts/bolts on install.

I found non existant flaky pieces of the old insulation a jammed door, and the main doors hinge made of thin plastic was snapped off. Once I got things going again it was a different truck.

I ended up riveting my own pieces of a 2 liter bottle to act as hinges where needed, and I got some high temp nasty glue to attach my own blocks of waterproof type foam and made sure I had some cushion and shaped each piece to each mating area with an electric knife.

 

[NJGearhead666]

does anyone know off hand the size of the heater hose going to the core? I'll stop by the plumbing supply and get a valve and some barb fittings this week. With the heatwaves coming and going in NJ I think my AC could use some help

 

[biggin92]

I Have a few of the vacuum plastic valves off of the rangers . I was thinking about putting one on my truck and they also let the water circulate through that valve and back to the motor when it is closed and not to the heater core.

 

[riotwarrior]

I Have a few of the vacuum plastic valves off of the rangers . I was thinking about putting one on my truck and they also let the water circulate through that valve and back to the motor when it is closed and not to the heater core.

That's exactly what I did in my Bronco...and here where I live I have seen 40C which is effin hot, and it made a significant difference in cabin temp...this is the way to go fer sure!

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Perform this simple test.

Remove the vacuum valve and temporarily connect it into a short length of hose.

Slowly pour water into the hose and watch a surprisingly large amount of it pass through the supposedly closed valve.

Now imagine if it were HOT coolant under pressure and with a leaky vacuum switch.


Hopefully, yours will pass the test, but most won't.

Mine is a 4 port valve, not a simple shutoff valve so the coolant will recirculate to my coolant filter. I know its solid as i installed it with no heater core and left the lines to the heater core open and ran like that for a few weeks. Had a little bit of buildup on the inside of the open tubes but didn't lose any coolant. Its NOT PLASTIC either.

 

[Fordsandguns]

That's exactly what I did in my Bronco...and here where I live I have seen 40C which is effin hot, and it made a significant difference in cabin temp...this is the way to go fer sure!

We've been seeing that here about every day now for over a month.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Anybody got an answer to this? I am bringing my ac to life this week and just assumed if I took the heater core out of the loop that I would need 3 ball valves to shut off the heater core and then a line between the two to let the coolant flow the same way?['QUOTE]


The hot coolant heading toward the heater-core is only a small portion of the coolant being circulated.

If a single cut-off valve is installed in either heater-hose, the coolant flow that is blocked will simply bypass with no harm done.

Another way to skin the cat is to install a bypass coolant filter BETWEEN the heater-hoses and add a cut-off valve in the HOT side of the filter on the heater-core side.

Then, when the valve is OPEN/WINTER, coolant will flow both through the heater and the filter; CLOSE/SUMMER the valve and no coolant goes to the heater, but is still passing through the filter.

Also I yanked my whole dash apart and took out all the hvac stuff because it was so dirty and the blend doors weren't working well and it made me think the fan wasn't working well. I just dived in and unbolted it all to clean up and found tons of pens and garbage. Also clean your cowl drains, there are panels on the inside of each side of the truck to access inside, mine were so stuffed they couldn't keep up with a hose and flooded inside.

My hvac boxes had tons of rivets so I drilled them out and replaced with my own nuts/bolts on install.

I found non existant flaky pieces of the old insulation a jammed door, and the main doors hinge made of thin plastic was snapped off. Once I got things going again it was a different truck.

I ended up riveting my own pieces of a 2 liter bottle to act as hinges where needed, and I got some high temp nasty glue to attach my own blocks of waterproof type foam and made sure I had some cushion and shaped each piece to each mating area with an electric knife.

Did you take any pictures of the process ??


For years, my ducts have been spitting out tiny pieces of brittle foam.

A couple years ago, I pulled the blower and it was so packed with leaves and trash that I don't see how it worked at all.

I then removed the A/C evaporator box and found it likewise, with a heavy wet mat of **** completely plastering the evaporator; getting rid of this nasty **** got rid of the wet-dog smell that always accompanied turning on the A/C.

I removed the cowl and shop-vacced a ton of debris from way down in there.

Also, I removed both kick-panels and those plastic plugs to find the cavities completely filled with leaves and various trash.


All of this junk enters through those open slots in the cowl, below the windshield.

I zip-tied and hot-melt glued screen-wire underneath those openings, such that leaves, pine-needles, bugs, and such can't pass through.


I need to investigate all those spots again and see if my screening has benefitted.

 

[damac]

Anybody got an answer to this? I am bringing my ac to life this week and just assumed if I took the heater core out of the loop that I would need 3 ball valves to shut off the heater core and then a line between the two to let the coolant flow the same way?['QUOTE]


The hot coolant heading toward the heater-core is only a small portion of the coolant being circulated.

If a single cut-off valve is installed in either heater-hose, the coolant flow that is blocked will simply bypass with no harm done.

Another way to skin the cat is to install a bypass coolant filter BETWEEN the heater-hoses and add a cut-off valve in the HOT side of the filter on the heater-core side.

Then, when the valve is OPEN/WINTER, coolant will flow both through the heater and the filter; CLOSE/SUMMER the valve and no coolant goes to the heater, but is still passing through the filter.


Did you take any pictures of the process ??


For years, my ducts have been spitting out tiny pieces of brittle foam.

A couple years ago, I pulled the blower and it was so packed with leaves and trash that I don't see how it worked at all.

I then removed the A/C evaporator box and found it likewise, with a heavy wet mat of **** completely plastering the evaporator; getting rid of this nasty **** got rid of the wet-dog smell that always accompanied turning on the A/C.

I removed the cowl and shop-vacced a ton of debris from way down in there.

Also, I removed both kick-panels and those plastic plugs to find the cavities completely filled with leaves and various trash.


All of this junk enters through those open slots in the cowl, below the windshield.

I zip-tied and hot-melt glued screen-wire underneath those openings, such that leaves, pine-needles, bugs, and such can't pass through.


I need to investigate all those spots again and see if my screening has benefitted.

Well I already installed the filter bypass mod so I guess I will blindly follow your advice I don't know why I am having a hard time grasping the flow of the system.


As far as the ducting, I did not keep pictures. But I had never done it before and just took my time and can say it was pretty obvious once you got in there. It was probably easier for me because I had the dash apart already, I am talking the whole cage so I could get clearance on the guts and see everything.

Once exposed it was very simple to see what was going on with the foam and the doors, etc. and I was able to easily mod things with stuff from the garage. I had to buy the nice glue and new foam and just shaped the pieces with a cutting knife.

Only thing I would mention is to make sure you test it with the unit in the dash before yanking it all and make sure all your vacuum lines to each actuator( i think there are 3) are actually working with good lines and not binding up. Those need to work to set off certain doors. The one on the right for the main door was cable actuated on mine from the dash controls.

I would say it was an annoying job but not really hard.

 

[Hoss6.9]

This is what I used on mine....

(2) 3/4" PEX Ball Valves....

 

[oldblue05]

I Have a few of the vacuum plastic valves off of the rangers . I was thinking about putting one on my truck and they also let the water circulate through that valve and back to the motor when it is closed and not to the heater core.

What year model rangers? motor combination?

That's exactly what I did in my Bronco...and here where I live I have seen 40C which is effin hot, and it made a significant difference in cabin temp...this is the way to go fer sure!

I had to use my phone to convert to F haha, pretty sure Lubbock just set a record for days to bust 100*F...

 

[itsacrazyasian]

What year model rangers? motor combination?



I had to use my phone to convert to F haha, pretty sure Lubbock just set a record for days to bust 100*F...

Order a shutoff valve for a 96 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 OHV. they sell a metal version and a nylon plastic. Mine is metal and works great!