Houstin we have a problem, May day, May day...

[kwcrusader]

So there I was driving back from Miami, minding my own business when I noticed my truck was smoking way worse then ever before.
At first thought I had gone to far with my 80-20 mix of wmo and Pump diesel. and kept on truckin. Then about 50 miles later I noticed a serious loss of power.
It felt like a clogged fuel filter, so I pulled over and tossed in a new one.
New filter, same problem. So I filled her up with pump diesel witch came to around a 50-50 mix. Same problem. By the time I made it home the truck was tapped out at 45mph, turbo was pushing 18psi and EGT's were around 1,000. Still no CEL.
Truck was empty, no trailer.

So this morning I threw a few wrenches at it and here is what I got.

1. No check engine light, no codes.
2. Cam sensor reads 0 at all RPM. Truck runs the same with it unplugged.
3. Engine has a miss under load. Cyl#1 runs 50 deg cooler than the rest. (we pulled the #1 injector apart, cleaned it all up and put it back) It got a little better but not much. Still smokes like a mosquito fogger.

Yes the filter is new and yes I just replaced my lift pump 3 months ago.
The truck is a 01 2500 with about 130k.

I need help from here on out. I don't have a compression tester (yet) but it dosent sound to me like an engine problem.

I know VP44's are junk and I know that's probly what it is but I want to be sure before I make the purchace. I'm also open to oppinions on a good VP-44 to buy. I use this truck for towing my bikes and cars to Stunt shows, So I need a dependable one.

I'm also wondering if the cam sensor reading 0 could affect the IP timing and be causing this problem without throwing a CEL.

I'm hoping Whitmore or another Diesel guru can help me figure this out. If not I will light it on fire and jump it at the next show....

Thanks in advance, for all your help.

 

[Russ]

Here's to hoping for a no fix(I wanna see a fire jump). Just kidding. Sorry I can't help.

 

[Mike]

Whats your fuel pressure?

 

[kwcrusader]

20psi at idle and 15psi under load. At service port on IP.

 

[kwcrusader]

One more thing that threw me off was my MAP sensor is reading 15psi with engine off or at idle. If I get the turbo to push higher than 15 it will read but if psi drops below that it will say at 15....
I heard this is normal but I couldent find any specs online.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Whiter smoke is usally the signs of the advancement piston failing inside the VP44 and timing advancement isn't happening... But still even if the P0216 code isn't present. The white smoke still points to a timing issue...

Just for kicks and giggles is the key in the VP44 ok??

 

[kwcrusader]

Haven't checked that but I'll have a look at the key in the morning.

 

[Mopar1973Man]

So there I was driving back from Miami, minding my own business when I noticed my truck was smoking way worse then ever before.
At first thought I had gone to far with my 80-20 mix of wmo and Pump diesel. and kept on truckin. Then about 50 miles later I noticed a serious loss of power.
It felt like a clogged fuel filter, so I pulled over and tossed in a new one.
New filter, same problem. So I filled her up with pump diesel witch came to around a 50-50 mix. Same problem. By the time I made it home the truck was tapped out at 45mph, turbo was pushing 18psi and EGT's were around 1,000. Still no CEL.
Truck was empty, no trailer.

So this morning I threw a few wrenches at it and here is what I got.

Now after really reading you post... You might of done some serious damage somewhere with the WMO/WEO. First of Cummins MAX allowance of WMO/WEO is 5% by volume (1.75 Gallons for 35 gallon tank). Even Cummins Centinel burn less that 5% volume of WMO/WEO.

Not to mention the lubricity of the WMO/WEO is low so it might cause wear to you fuel system components...

You must be registered for see images attach

#13 is the WEO which doesn't meet or exceed either standard of fuel lubricity. It a failed lubricant... Remember that 2nd Gen's VP44 was design for fuel that where in the range of 350-460 HFRR...

#7 2 Cycle Oil passes minimum GOV'T standards (@ 200:1 ratio) and will lubricate your fuel system satisfactory...

WEO/WMO has a high amount of ASH content in engine oil. So now what is ash??? Measures inorganic residues - The small amount of non-combustible metallic material found in almost all petroleum products is commonly called ash. Ash content should not exceed 0.02 mass percent. Sorry to say but WEO/WMO is very high in ash content because of all the wear metals that left behind in it.

Now there is another problem is the carbon residue. Measures residue in fuel - can influence combustion. The tendency of a diesel fuel to form carbon deposits in an engine can be estimated by various tests to determine the carbon residue after 90% of the fuel has been evaporated .

I had a post on another forum... I found a pic from a waste engine oil heater and the burner was all buggered up with this white deposit. It had to be scraped off with a putty knife. This deposits was ASH and it occurred in less than 24 hour of running WEO/WMO...Now remember these white deposits will grow in the combustion chamber...

This is the main reason I suggest if your going to run WEO/WMO it has to be less that 5% by volume.

But this is also why I ONLY use ASHLESS 2 CYCLE OIL...

 

[kwcrusader]

WOW! Thanks for that info.
I looked for specs like that before I started messing with wvo and wmo but couldn't find anything good. Seems like you only find out what you can't do after it's too late.....

I'm definitely not going to stop using wmo but I will learn more about how to test it and tweak it to make it better for my VP44.

 

[kwcrusader]

So I bought updated rebuilt vp-44 IP from Industrial Injection. I also got the Fass fuel systems lift pump filter and water separator combo. Sweet products and my truck runs great.

So now all this has me thinking.
A stock fuel system goes like this.
Fuel tank to the lift pump through the fuel filter then injection pump.

They use a filter before the IP so we don't kill the IP.
BUT we all know the leading cause of bad IP's is lift pump going bad and loosing pressure.....
Why not a fuel filter before the Lift Pump to keep the junk out of it and keep it alive longer?

Here's what I'm thinking about hooking up this week. (stay with me here)

Fuel tank to a 30 micron filter, then to the stock Lift pump. From there through the stock filter (10-15 micron) then to the Fass Fuel System which has a water separator, 3 micron filter and 95gph lift pump. Then after all that go to the Injection Pump.

Is anyone running a similar filter system or 2 lift pumps?

 

[kwcrusader]

Mopar 1973 Man,
I was wondering if you knew anyplace I could bring several different fuel mixtures and have them give it the HFRR test? Or can I buy my own tester? I have looked online and can't even find a consistent explanation of what they do to test it or what the test is....

 

[bcool]

I am also curious as well. I was under the impression that WMO have great lubricity due to the fact that its...well....oil. Interesting, i wonder what the rating on ATF is? I'm going to have to start mixing 2 cycle in with my tank. I'm running upwards of a 70% mix now. Is there anywhere that you get this soypower biodiesel? or is this a home brew type of bio?

 

[kwcrusader]

I don't run the Bio. I just filter the hell out of wmo / wvo and mix it with Diesel and a cetane booster.
In the hfrr test it says waste oil ranks low. The stuff they tested was used Rotella T (diesel oil) but they did not test a synthetic oil, atf or even a regular motor oil but they had no problem testing all kinds of other stuff.

I would like more explanation of this hfrr testing.
However I have extensive results from the PITARI testing procedure, (pour in tank and run it)......

 

[bcool]

I want to find the most efficient and effective way of getting the proper lubrication. Is there any way to figure out what the HFRR rating say 0w or 5w is or even ATF? I've got great fuel pressure now so all i need is some good lubrication for my pump and i'll be set.

 

[kwcrusader]

I have looked on the net for some specs but the only data I can find is the one Mopar Man posted here. You would think if the hfrr test is so widely used there would be all kinds of data available on all types of oil.
Try a search and see if you can do better than I did. I got frustrated after about 10 pages of nonsense.