Help!!!

Ruger_556

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In the process of fixing oil pan leak... I used Hi-Tack to put the cork gasket on the pan. How the heck do I get that off? Anybody know of anything that eats Hi-tack? If I would have used the cheap stuff it would come right off. Also determined that I'll have to jack the engine up a little after all :mad:
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OLDBULL8

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In the process of fixing oil pan leak... I used Hi-Tack to put the cork gasket on the pan. How the heck do I get that off? Anybody know of anything that eats Hi-tack? If I would have used the cheap stuff it would come right off. Also determined that I'll have to jack the engine up a little after all :mad:
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Hope this comes thru, got that GD illegel string again which offsets everything, sure wish they would fix it or go back to the original browser.
In the first place you should NEVER have used a cork gasket on the pan. If you haven't tried to take the gasket off yet leave it alone. if you have a leak just try and tighten the bolts a little. If you have started to take the gasket off, I guess proceed with it.
It's best to completely remove the pan, jack the engine up and support it, if you have an engine hoist use that, hook on to the engine lift rings topside.
Drop the pan and unbolt the oil pump, that will have to come out with the pan. The pump suction sticks down in the pan 11".
Now the only thing I can think of to cut the glue is Acetone, available at any paint store by the quart or gallon.
Someone else may know something else.To reseal the pan use only RTV, the Copper RTV is best, be sure and seal around the front and rear real good. Don't put so much on that it will squish inside, let the RTV dry for a few minutes to form a crust on it before installing. If you have a few long bolts (3") that fit, cut the heads off, screw them in the block to act as guides for the pan.
 

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Ruger_556

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I tried tightening up the bolts a few weeks ago but the oil just comes right through the cork. Still kicking myself for not getting on O.B. before my engine reseal project. Stupid Fel-Pro threw the gasket in so I just had to use it :mad: If I can get the gasket off clean I was hoping to not have to pull the pan off.
 

OLDBULL8

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Added some pics in previous post. It's going to be damn difficult to get that gasket off without pulling the pan. If and when you put the RTV on, the pan rail has to be oil free and clean or it will leak again.
 

Ruger_556

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Added some pics in previous post. It's going to be damn difficult to get that gasket off without pulling the pan. If and when you put the RTV on, the pan rail has to be oil free and clean or it will leak again.

I know it sucks but I have Monday off so I need to get it done while I can use the shop at work. Right Stuff Gasket Maker work okay? Use it on turbo drains all the time where you never get all the oil off.
 

riotwarrior

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You may mask the current leak with right stuff, I cannot say. If anything I'd use SEAL ALL to mask the leak.

The ONLY real way is pull engine, pull pan, clean pan rail on block and clean pan it self. These must, I repeat THESE MUST be better than surgically clean with absolutely NO residual oil what so ever.

Then use a high quality silicone/RTV be it Ultra Copper or Ultra black etc of your choice, assemble the pan to block and gently tighten pan, allow to set for about 20-30 min this allows a nice skin on the edge and then tighten down carefully and evenly.

IF YOU leave any oil on pan rail or pan when applying that RTV it will cure over top of that and then leak there as it does not adhere to the oil it just lays on top and cures then leaks. This is why we must be SURGICALLY clean!

JM2CW

Good luck with it.

Al
 

Ruger_556

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You may mask the current leak with right stuff, I cannot say. If anything I'd use SEAL ALL to mask the leak.

The ONLY real way is pull engine, pull pan, clean pan rail on block and clean pan it self. These must, I repeat THESE MUST be better than surgically clean with absolutely NO residual oil what so ever.

Then use a high quality silicone/RTV be it Ultra Copper or Ultra black etc of your choice, assemble the pan to block and gently tighten pan, allow to set for about 20-30 min this allows a nice skin on the edge and then tighten down carefully and evenly.

IF YOU leave any oil on pan rail or pan when applying that RTV it will cure over top of that and then leak there as it does not adhere to the oil it just lays on top and cures then leaks. This is why we must be SURGICALLY clean!

JM2CW

Good luck with it.

Al

I know the best way is to pull the engine but I just had it out this winter and I don't have anything else to drive. Even if it leaks in a few places it'll be better than it is now. 15W-40 is just too expensive to keep adding it at this rate. Can I get the pan out if I just drop the pickup tube or does the pump need to come off?
 

riotwarrior

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I know the best way is to pull the engine but I just had it out this winter and I don't have anything else to drive. Even if it leaks in a few places it'll be better than it is now. 15W-40 is just too expensive to keep adding it at this rate. Can I get the pan out if I just drop the pickup tube or does the pump need to come off?

Here is the kicker PUMP and PICK UP tube must come off PICK UP tube is attached to mains as you know. Also putting it all back together is going to be somewhat difficult too.

Don't forget if oil leaks out, dirt and contaminates can get in!

Al
 
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