help with a short?

h2odrx

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was leaving a store today and as i pulled out of the parking lot my truck just cut off. i pulled into another parking lot and saw smoke coming from under the hood? :confused:
one of the fuseable links had burnt into (well the wire did) and from the wiring diagram it looks like the wire that goes to the fuel shut off sol? could it be the gp control causing a short? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

OkieGringo

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Check the wires from the IP Fuel Shutoff Solenoid to the Cold Engine Switch(CES). The CES is down in a hole just behind the upper radiator hose. It has two prongs. See if the plastic connector to the CES has melted. Take the connectors off the FSS, CES, FIS and CTA. Cut the bad fuseable link out, and connect a VOM red lead to the end that goes to the IP. SET VOM to read Ohms and touch the VOM black lead to the connection at the FSS. Got milk, yes/no? Check between the FSS and CES wire. Got milk, yes/no? Check between CES and FIS and CTA. Got milk, yes/no? My best guess is that the connector at the CES has melted(common occurance) and the connector touched engine down in that hole. I don't know what the fuseable link is rated for, but I'd replace it with a DC circuit breaker rather than another fuseable link. That way if there's a short it will OPEN the circuit when it gets too hot. Then when you've fixed the problem, it'll cool down and close the circuit and not leave you out in the cold with no new fuseable link. Try cutting the wrapping off the loom from IP back to the fuseable link. The wires might have rubbed thru. I hope this helps. OkieGringo
 

h2odrx

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cool i'll look for that, with the CES unplugged will it run? that is if that is my problem? i just want to get the thing home it's about 1/2 mile from the house and a cold 30degs?
thanks
 

OkieGringo

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To get it home, make up a jumper with a female spade connector on one end and alligator clip on the other, splice in 2 - one foot pieces about 6 " from the female spade and put a female spade on each end. Remove the plug on FSS , FIS and CTA. Now connect female spade to the male spades on the FSS, FIS and CTA and clip the alligator to battery positive. This will turn on the FSS and allow fuel to the IP and to activate the FIS and the CTA. Try to start engine. Got milk, yes/no? If no, we'll try bypassing the GP controller in the morning. Good luck, OkieGringo
 

h2odrx

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my wife got home so i went and unplugged the CES and the fuse did not blow and the WTS went off and it fired up!!!! the engine light is on will it hurt to drive it? thanks for the info

on edit:
well i drove it home, the engine light went off and on and the oil pressure was low to nothing? (well the guage was) i guess with the switch unplugged some circuts are not right?
thanks again!!!! :D
 
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Agnem

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Well, you certainly may have an electrical problem that is affecting the gauge, but the oil presure, and water temp switches are not part of the circuit that the CES is in. I'd keep my eyebrow raised and get some real gauges on that truck ASAP.
 

h2odrx

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would the short that fried those wires/fuslinks cause the sending units problems? thay are grounded to the motor?
thanks

ok what would it hurt to drive with the CES unpluged? the oil gauge is still iffy?
$52 for the CES, is there a way to test it? when putting in a new temp gauge which sender do you take out?
thanks
 
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