Ok well it all started on my way into work last Wednesday. It was 7 degrees and about half way in my truck started to sputter and lose power and before long it wouldn't rev past 1,000 rpm then it just died. I automatically assumed the fuel had gelled but after 5 minutes It started and I drove to work. At work I added a sh*t ton of antigell additive. On my way home( I made it about half way) it died again in the same manner. At this point it was -4 out with a -30 windchill. I figured it had to be gelled. So I proceeded to have a buddy get a fuel filter and head out to me. He dragged me to a side road and I tried to change the filter but it was so damn cold my hands wouldn't work. So as I was about to leave the truck there I attempted to start it one last time and made it home. I then changed to filter and all seemed to be good around town this weekend. Until now. I was on my way to work when it happened again. Luckily I got it started and pulled into Denys and here I sit waiting for my father to come help out in the ever reliable 12v cummins. So my question is what is the problem here. My truck is meticulously maintained. Has no air intrusion, lift pump is fine. New filter. And a moose jr with 15,000 miles and regularly treated fuel with addative. My prevous ip had heat soak but never died out like this. It would just start like balls hot. I haven't tried pouring water on this ip after it dies yet to really check. Thoughts? Sh*tty thing is my other vehicle is also down so I'm kindof sol
Help needed possible ip issues
- Thread starter S-west
- Start date
1992f250
Registered User
I had a similar issue but only when I would switch to the rear tank it would run great for 15-20 min start to spit and sputter switch back to front tank start running better after 5 min turns out a fuel line got bent almost closed guy I got truck from changed all the lines over to a plastic style line and made one too long and ran it on too tight of a bend cut it out and fixed it never had a problem since so might want to check if a line may have gotten Bent almost closed
I wonder if that mr. Gasket electric lift pump is giving out. I had one die after a few hours of use... makes sound but barely puts out a trickle. The little pre-filter could be clogged too.
They're meant to be gravity fed, so if it's in the engine bay it's likely overworked and under delivering.
They're meant to be gravity fed, so if it's in the engine bay it's likely overworked and under delivering.
Definitely a fuel supply issue. It would be beneficial to add a fuel pressure gauge to your instrument cluster so you can see it happening. Everything you describe is a fuel availability problem. It looses power, because it is loosing fuel, and it dies because it ran out. When it dies, there is still a slight vacuum in the lines, and as the underhood area warms, your problem is eased and you get fuel again. An anti-gel is great, but it doesn't keep water from freezing, and if that is what is going on, then your fuel heater may not be working either.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I'm with Mel on this idea. You really need to know what fuel pressure you have AFTER the filter. If you can't get an after pressure then at least get a before pressure. Also what level is the fuel tank at? If you are running around 1/4 tank of fuel you probably have the broken suction head issue most if not all ford trucks have. Easy fix is never allow the tank level to reach 1/4 tank of diesel. Thats the best free no labor fix.
I don't have a fuel pressure guage on it, but all lines seem fine all of this happened above half a tank, this is my second lift pump and seams to be working fine. I will replace the pre filter when I get home. Pump is about 2 feet from the tank. By the transfer case. I only run my rear tank. Immediately after it dies I can turn the key on and press the shrader in and it squirts out healthy.
Water in fuel will not come on for a pressure issue. The fuel filter light will, if it works. Next time it does it, don't turn the truck off. Leave the key on and check the Schrader valve then. If a rubber line is collapsing, turning the pump off, then back on will relieve the vacuum created and start delivering fuel again.
Might give you more info if you can pull over after it starts giving you grief, but before it totally dies and hit the valve then.
Also, heat soak rarely presents itself as a problem dying while running. Almost always causes the problem starting after driving.
Might give you more info if you can pull over after it starts giving you grief, but before it totally dies and hit the valve then.
Also, heat soak rarely presents itself as a problem dying while running. Almost always causes the problem starting after driving.
Ahh....this I may have an idea of...
First need to know...DID you install that wee tiny filter on the pump on the suck side? If so it's likely getting clogged up and then cannot deliver fuel.
I had an issue where I would have symtoms like you describe with my mean green pump and was able to diagnose it to a clogged itty bitty fuel filter.
I then drill it out and installed it never to have another issue again!
JM2CW
First need to know...DID you install that wee tiny filter on the pump on the suck side? If so it's likely getting clogged up and then cannot deliver fuel.
I had an issue where I would have symtoms like you describe with my mean green pump and was able to diagnose it to a clogged itty bitty fuel filter.
I then drill it out and installed it never to have another issue again!
JM2CW
I hope your right. Although this truck spends more time with the hood up then it does on the road, so I have decided to look for a newer truck. I hate to say it but possibly a 6 speed common rail dodge. If I can afford it, I want to keep the truck as a project
Well drove it home from my fathers work and it started to die out a mile from my house, pulled over and it was still running (like hell) no fuel coming out of shrader. Shortly after it died, kept the pump running and still nothing. Waited 15 minutes and started it, took a few seconds of cranking then it started drove the rest of the way home and checked shrader again, still nothing but was running fine. Couldn't find any lines sucking shut.
Could be any place where a rubber line connects to a hard line or the FSV, rubber lines will collapse inside possibly blocking the inlet to any hard line or the FSV.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Get rid of the pre pump filter. See what happens. Or maybe its a bad electrical connection in the ignition switch. to test that run a hot wire to the injection pump fuel shutoff solenoid. Just know the engine will not stop running unless you lift the hot wire from the top of the injection pump spade connector.
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