Help me spend some money

BrianX128

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It works so we're good there, though I cannot get the overtemp sender out to save my life. Gonna let it soak in wd40 for a couple hours before I hit it with the impact wrench. Will probably take me that long to find the impact wrench. Garage is a wreck. Any helpful tips to get that guy out of there?
 

crash-harris

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Leave it in there and pull a plug behind it (on head towards firewall). Impact will probably tear the sender apart.
 

BrianX128

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Wd40 did wonders for it, got it out. Only issue I'm now having is I don't feel like I got it in tight enough since I can't get a socket on it cause of the tube so I had to put a wrench vertically and put another wrench through the hole of the main one to turn it and same for my oil sender t mess, but everything is in and does work perfectly and I did tape all the threads and nothing leaks so I guess I should just drive it..

Oil pressure was between 15-20 at idle, 20-25 on high idle and I revved and held it at 2k and it was 35 ish but the engine was only at 140 on the water temp, which was stuck for 4 minutes never moved and then started working fine..

I still think I'm gonna try and turn both units one more half turn.
 

BrianX128

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Got everything tight only to realize I wouldn't be able to twist it into the block with the old factory sender on it... cookoo

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Water temp sender where the overtemp once was. The probe moves just a tiny bit but the seal nut and sensor nut are very snug and no leaks so just leaving it alone..

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Finished product! Time to get a reading of them while driving to Walmart and advanced to try and find a 3 gauge holder to put them in. Took voltage gauge out cause the other two are just sitting on the carpet under the ash tray for now.
 

BrianX128

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So here we go were triple posting but only cause I've had an interesting discovery. So went on a 100 mile drive today in 85 degree heat with the ac on. Water temp worked beautifully and I never went over 200 though I got close with the ac blasting climbing a hill. Seemed to like to stay between 185-190 ish.

Oil pressure was great at first in the morning with the windows down and the radio off. You'll see why this is important in a minute. I had 13-17 ish idling hot I believe gauge isn't exactly the best to read at low pressures but it was somewhere in there. Climbing a hill at 2600 rpm it was around 40 ish. I was happy.

I turned the ac and radio on and looked 20 minutes later and had 15psi at 2600 rpm. What? Well no panic required because apparently having the feed wire for the gauge (it's an electric oil pressure sender) in the fuse box for the radio gives all sorts of false readings when things are bein used from the wire that feeds the fuses. I then shut off everything else and it was back to 38ish and the engine was way hotter. Those good readings go along with what a mechanical gauge showed us when we first installed the electrical gauge and verified it was accurate in the driveway to a couple of psi at most rpm hot or cold. The damn radio hitting, reverse lights, basically anything that has a fuse from the fuse box causes the gauge to drop some from the supply voltage dropping ever so slightly.

So now my plan is to get a relay (this seems stupid) wired directly to the damn drivers side battery, and have the trip wire for the relay be something that is 12v switched from the fuse box (basically where it's wired now) so that the supply wire doesn't lose or change its properties as much when stuff gets turned on. I'm too far in to just switch to a mechanical gauge now, and I know the readings were correct from plugging a mechanical into the T when I installed it so now I just gotta either try what I'm thinking or know to just judge the ratings accordingly. I went as far to test running a super long wire from the + battery to the gauge input and cranked the ac, radio, whatever I could think of and then the gauge only changed by 2 psi at a known good setting.

Figured I'd type this all up just in case anyone ever comes across this issue, but when I add my gauges to Fred (my good 300-6 truck), I'm gonna do a mechanical with a copper line for the oil gauge more then likely to avoid navigating stupid electrical issues. Which probably wouldn't happen if all of fords wires weren't super tiny and kinda weak. But hey, gotta do what you gotta do. Least my oil pressure didn't turn out to be crap, looking on the bright side.
 

riotwarrior

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So here we go were triple posting but only cause I've had an interesting discovery. So went on a 100 mile drive today in 85 degree heat with the ac on. Water temp worked beautifully and I never went over 200 though I got close with the ac blasting climbing a hill. Seemed to like to stay between 185-190 ish.

Oil pressure was great at first in the morning with the windows down and the radio off. You'll see why this is important in a minute. I had 13-17 ish idling hot I believe gauge isn't exactly the best to read at low pressures but it was somewhere in there. Climbing a hill at 2600 rpm it was around 40 ish. I was happy.

I turned the ac and radio on and looked 20 minutes later and had 15psi at 2600 rpm. What? Well no panic required because apparently having the feed wire for the gauge (it's an electric oil pressure sender) in the fuse box for the radio gives all sorts of false readings when things are bein used from the wire that feeds the fuses. I then shut off everything else and it was back to 38ish and the engine was way hotter. Those good readings go along with what a mechanical gauge showed us when we first installed the electrical gauge and verified it was accurate in the driveway to a couple of psi at most rpm hot or cold. The damn radio hitting, reverse lights, basically anything that has a fuse from the fuse box causes the gauge to drop some from the supply voltage dropping ever so slightly.

So now my plan is to get a relay (this seems stupid) wired directly to the damn drivers side battery, and have the trip wire for the relay be something that is 12v switched from the fuse box (basically where it's wired now) so that the supply wire doesn't lose or change its properties as much when stuff gets turned on. I'm too far in to just switch to a mechanical gauge now, and I know the readings were correct from plugging a mechanical into the T when I installed it so now I just gotta either try what I'm thinking or know to just judge the ratings accordingly. I went as far to test running a super long wire from the + battery to the gauge input and cranked the ac, radio, whatever I could think of and then the gauge only changed by 2 psi at a known good setting.

Figured I'd type this all up just in case anyone ever comes across this issue, but when I add my gauges to Fred (my good 300-6 truck), I'm gonna do a mechanical with a copper line for the oil gauge more then likely to avoid navigating stupid electrical issues. Which probably wouldn't happen if all of fords wires weren't super tiny and kinda weak. But hey, gotta do what you gotta do. Least my oil pressure didn't turn out to be crap, looking on the bright side.

M E C H A N I C A L
.....guages don't have this issue. :rotflmao

.

I'm trying to stay away from nylon hoses and any liquids in the cab but I also want a water temp gauge for the coolant.

This answers that.....

http://www.autometer.com/high-pressure-isolator-300-psi.html

I have the low pressure one for my fuel pressure....

You did ask for help zpending $$$ right:dunno

JM7.3CW Eh!....
 
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BrianX128

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Haha I know, I know. This is more informative for anyone else who happens to read this and have the same issue. I'm surprised they don't tell you in the directions to try and wire it to the battery with a relay. For something that's accuracy depends on resistance of a constant current being grounded through the sender into the block, having you supply the power through anything that could be turned on or off would naturally change the readings.

Oh well, live and learn haha.
 

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