Headgaskets on 6.9. what else to do

BiodieselLuke

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I picked up a factory turbo setup for my 86 6.9 with 120k original miles. I thought I should do head gaskets before the turbo as I'd like to run a moose pump and injectors and leave room for more, later. I've got ARP studs and was wondering if I should have the heads worked over while they are off. What should I have done? New valves? Springs? rockers? What else

Thanks
Luke
 

87crewdually

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Since a head set should come with them anyway I'd update the valve stem seals and swap in the new ones. At the same time check the intake/exhaust valves for excessive side play (wore guides) which would warrant having the heads reconditioned.
 

THECACKLER

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Yeah, if I had the heads off, I'd have them magna-fluxed and do a valve job and seals. The gaskets are going to cost you that much.
 

Diesel JD

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I suggest getting the heads pressure checked and magna fluxed and fix any problems. Supposedly the 6.9 rockers suck but a lot of people have left them alone. I'm not sure the later valve seals are an "upgrade" they tend to let a lot less oil sneak buy in good condition but that means the valve stem may get less lubrication. Personally I'd rather she used some oil than to have to worry about the seemingly increased incidence of dropped valves in your 7.3s. Most important to your success is going to be that you carefully follow the reverse torque and line sequence very slowly until all the pressure is off the bolts. Failure to do so is why many people warp or crack these heads. The second area of concern is the mating surface. If you hot tank/pressure check, magnaflux the heads more than likely the machine shop will clean them right up for you, but you must make sure they did and also you have to get the bloc mating surfaces spotlessly clean, I mean like you'd want to eat off of it clean. The other thing to consider is that you should never allow your heads to be milled outside of the service limit. It's not very much either, I don't know that number off the top of my noodle. Now if they need a ton of milling to be flat you should just buy a new set of offshore castings like Icanfixall did if that's not in the budget or if your heads are good, you don't need to even think about that and there are other ways to make it work, some suboptimal but you only have so much cash. Those heads are usually pretty salvageable unless someone has severely overheated the motor or a well meaning but uninformed machinist mills them out of spec so pick a good shop even if it costs, and insist on what YOU want done to them. The ARP studs are great especially for high boost apps, BUT you must explicitly follow ARP's lubing and torquing instructions. It seems lame and like a waste of time but with all the work you're doing do you want to take a chance....really what is a few more hours...you'll see what I mean. Along the smae lines, your torque wrench better be very close to spot on accurate or else problems could ensue. Calibrating your torque wrench might not be a bad idea. I have seen people blow head gaskets here from a torque wrench that wasn't giving proper readings, good home mechanics too.... a real crying shame.
 

hesutton

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I'd rebuild the oil cooler while you have the heads off. It's a big pain to get to otherwise. Consider it preventative maintainence. I'd put new valve seals on and have the heads checked at a reputable machine shop.

Heath
 

Diesel JD

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Heath is right about the oil cooler. I wish I had done it when I had the heads off, but hey I was a broke college student and completely out of cash and it didn't leak then.....are you people really sure about the valve stem seals? Nobody's worried about the positive stem seal issue that we always used to discuss or has the collective determined the dropped valves are actually from something else other than the new positive design??
 

BiodieselLuke

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Thanks again, I've got someone local in chico but sacramento is only an hour and a half away so maybe I'll search for somebody reputable in Sac. I'll definitely do that oil cooler, I did one on a PSD and it took a bit of time just getting it off, and it was messy. Is it the same on the IDI, 4 o-rings and squeezed on end caps?
 

sle2115

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I talked to my machinist (who I worked for many years) and he said that these engines do tend to work the guides, so personally, while I had them off, I'd have them gone through again, by a reputable shop.
 

RLDSL

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Heath is right about the oil cooler. I wish I had done it when I had the heads off, but hey I was a broke college student and completely out of cash and it didn't leak then.....are you people really sure about the valve stem seals? Nobody's worried about the positive stem seal issue that we always used to discuss or has the collective determined the dropped valves are actually from something else other than the new positive design??

All the current replacement seal sets no longer have the positive seals on the exhaust valve, they went back to umbrella seals on the exhaust on the 7.3 after all the valve problems. That said, when I had mine apart, I put positive seals on all the valves, but I knew I was going to be running synthetic so I wasn't concerned about lubrication issues.
 

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