Guys who are proficient with these motors.... R&R 94 turbo engine, regasket and paint quote?

[Kevo1288]

So I work two jobs and with limited time I want to pay someone to R&R my engine, do a complete regasket, new valve springs, repaint while its out.

I just got quoted $3000 ish by a shop that charges $75 an hour and I pay for parts.... was wondering the thoughts on that first quote I got.

Reason for this is , front and rear main leak for the most part.

Kev

 

[Kevo1288]

I will also say, this shop probably hasn't worked on one of these since the were relevant in new in the mid 90s.

 

[IDIoit]

@94f450sd

 

[Thewespaul]

That’s a reasonable price but on the higher end, I’d say 2200-3000 is about what you’ll find for quotes, if I was quoting the work it would be 3300 with the parts and head studs.

 

[Kevo1288]

That’s a reasonable price but on the higher end, I’d say 2200-3000 is about what you’ll find for quotes, if I was quoting the work it would be 3300 with the parts and head studs.

What would your round about be for front and rear main seal replacement with motor in the truck then? @Thewespaul

 

[Randy Bush]

I would be a little surprised if the rear main is leaking, They just don't give that much trouble, more then likely coming from higher up. Last year when I bought my 99 powerstroke 4x4 dealer said it had a rearmain leak, so asked a diesel shop I deal with what that would cost, 700 parts and labor, ended up being a leak on HPOP fittings, that I took care of.

Personally If I was going that far ,depending on the miles I would consider going a little deeper, rering, bearings check heads out. Do a compression test before to see what it is like.

 

[Thewespaul]

I agree that it’s unlikely that both front and rear are leaking unless someone installed them not long ago incorrectly. Usually the oem when not messed with last as long as the engine. To do the job inframe I’d say $1200-1600 depending on the truck (which trans, 4x4, lifted or not etc) I know for your truck it would be on the higher end of the spectrum

 

[Kevo1288]

I would be a little surprised if the rear main is leaking, They just don't give that much trouble, more then likely coming from higher up. Last year when I bought my 99 powerstroke 4x4 dealer said it had a rearmain leak, so asked a diesel shop I deal with what that would cost, 700 parts and labor, ended up being a leak on HPOP fittings, that I took care of.

Personally If I was going that far ,depending on the miles I would consider going a little deeper, rering, bearings check heads out. Do a compression test before to see what it is like.

Has 125k on it. Truck runs cherry. The rear is just a little grungy so im assuming on that but the front is definitely leaking.

 

[Kevo1288]

I agree that it’s unlikely that both front and rear are leaking unless someone installed them not long ago incorrectly. Usually the oem when not messed with last as long as the engine. To do the job inframe I’d say $1200-1600 depending on the truck (which trans, 4x4, lifted or not etc) I know for your truck it would be on the higher end of the spectrum

Its an e4od , maybe ill just get a quote for the front main seal and leave the motor in place if it is going to be that expensive to do.

 

[MtnHaul]

My memory is a bit fuzzy on this one but a while back I was sure my front main seal was leaking, but after I replaced by lift pump the leak went away. All I can figure is that my old lift pump wasn't sealed properly to the block and air flow was moving some of the oil around. I know you're on the e-pump now but perhaps the blockoff plate isn't sealing properly? Maybe you get lucky and that's all it is.

If you're worried about the rear main leak I would start by making sure valve covers and return lines are not leaking, and that the valley pan is dry. Several times I thought I had a more significant oil leak but it turned out to be something from top of engine dribbling down the back.

At 330k I had a clutch installed and the shop didn't tell me they were going to replace the rear main seal so a few days after picking up my truck I noticed there was an oil leak. The long and short of it was that the shop had to pull the trans again and reinstall the new seal WITH a sleeve to account for crankshaft wear--I could have told them this but they kept me out of the information loop. Figure a safe bet is that you know more about YOUR truck than just about any shop. No offense intended to the professionals here but my experience has been that I needed to help the shop with some of the fine grain details and to be informed and specific. I would do a lot of looking before throwing a shop a huge chunk of money for an engine rebuild.

 

[Kevo1288]

My memory is a bit fuzzy on this one but a while back I was sure my front main seal was leaking, but after I replaced by lift pump the leak went away. All I can figure is that my old lift pump wasn't sealed properly to the block and air flow was moving some of the oil around. I know you're on the e-pump now but perhaps the blockoff plate isn't sealing properly? Maybe you get lucky and that's all it is.

If you're worried about the rear main leak I would start by making sure valve covers and return lines are not leaking, and that the valley pan is dry. Several times I thought I had a more significant oil leak but it turned out to be something from top of engine dribbling down the back.

At 330k I had a clutch installed and the shop didn't tell me they were going to replace the rear main seal so a few days after picking up my truck I noticed there was an oil leak. The long and short of it was that the shop had to pull the trans again and reinstall the new seal WITH a sleeve to account for crankshaft wear--I could have told them this but they kept me out of the information loop. Figure a safe bet is that you know more about YOUR truck than just about any shop. No offense intended to the professionals here but my experience has been that I needed to help the shop with some of the fine grain details and to be informed and specific. I would do a lot of looking before throwing a shop a huge chunk of money for an engine rebuild.

I could check the fuel pump plate for sure, maybe you're right but it does seem to be central to the crank shaft. I also cant remember if the leak was there before or after that. However that's a good place to look and didn't think of that.