GP Connector Replacement Tips

[jayro88]

GP Connector Replacement Tips HELP NEEDED!!

This weekend I am planning on doing some work on my Glow Plug system. I will be replacing the relay on the controller since it is buzzing very loud and I have a Lifetime Replacement warranty. I also have 8 replacement ZD-9 glow plugs to replace any burnt out ones that I may have. The one's in the van are about 4 year/100k miles old.

My biggest question is on my corroded GP connectors. I bought a set of 8 of these for replacements:

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My concern is the current length of the connector wires in the GP harness. Normally I would just clip off the old ones, strip the wires and attach the new ones......however, I am worried that clipping off the old ones will leave the wires too short to reach the GP. Anyone who has done this job that can weigh in on this? I am going from 4 year old memory, but I don't think there was a lot of excess wire on the connectors. Whatcha think?

 

[79jasper]

Should be enough there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[riotwarrior]

When I did my harness w those...I cut the old end up finding the spot the wire got crimped...then cut right behind that for as much length as possible

 

[tbrumm]

These threads may be helpful too.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?72143-Glow-Plug-Connector-Rebuild
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?77669-Crumbling-glow-connector-ends

 

[brokeasajoke]

Apparently it is rumored the 6.0 harness can be made to work by removing the connector. You can pick up both sides for less than $40. Nice and clean setup.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

The 6.0 harness works. I tried the bullet connectors, I didn't like them, not very tight at all.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?76533-Perfect-new-glow-plug-harness-(Cheap-too!)

 

[jayro88]

I am about way through replacing these and have an issue I needed help with. I have replaced all 4 connectors on the passenger side as well as 1 GP that was out. I then tested it by turning the key to the ON position. My WTS will only blink. This is odd since prior to replacing the connectors and the burn out GP it would cycle normally, except slightly shorter than expected. I want to use my meter to test each connector and ensure they are getting current. Which post on the GP controller to I ground or jump to send current to the GP's? (see pic below). I know the bottom right terminal with the double yellow wires is voltage from the battery:

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Is it possible that the reduced resistance of the new connects are now allowing controller to sense the burned out GP and just flash?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Just connecting one side would be equal to 4 GP's burned out. Awful short cycle if any at all.

 

[jayro88]

So I finished with the GP Connectors and found a total of 3 GP out as well. After hooking everything up I turned the key to the on position and watched the WTS light. It Stayed on quite a bit longer than it had been and when it went out the van fired up......however. I noticed some smoking from the passanger side battery area. When I inspected it I found that it was in the bunch of wires in the pic:

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I unwrapped it and found that I had fried the fusible link in the pics below. There are 2 of them that are inserted in a red and green wire that loops back into the wrapped wires that run in the harness above the engine. Any idea what this is? Any special way to install the links, besides cutting them out and soldering,crimping in a new one? Does this point to something I messed up, or could it simply be that now I am pulling more for longer since the GP are cycling correctly?

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I also found this broken wire, but it looks like it has been that way for a while. It is with a bunch of really thin black ones that all go into 1.

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[jayro88]

I got things fixed up and running again. I cut out the blown fusible link and repaired all the wires:

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While replacing the GP relay I also found some damaged sheathing around one of the terminals that looked like it might have made contact with one on another post:

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However, while I did the GP connectors I had also rehooked up the High Idle/Cold Advance that I had wired to a switch. I noticed the light up on the switch was acting weird, so I pulled the switch and found that the ground wire had come in contact with the power supply wire for the switch. I unhooked all the switch wiring and pulled the switch.

The WTS light stays on as expected now and the van fires off within 2 rotations of the starter. I did notice that I don't hear the clicking for the after glow, with the new controller the GP's just stay on (not cycling) for about 5-6 seconds after the WTS light goes off.

I also replaced both batteries. The van calls for 27 series, but I measured and the 65 series would fit. It got me some more CCA's and reserve capacity.

Glad it's back up and running without too much trouble.

 

[pastorjeep]

Amazing how well these start with good gp's and no air in the system! I am having a weird situation with my WTS light. The wiring diagram shows it looping back to the fuel heater and water in filter sensor from the green and red you identified. But mine was cut after the wts light and run to ground, with the other features disabled. But I have no wts light? System works great, I just watch the amp gauge to see when the gp's kick off. But when I put 12v to the purple wire at the gp controller the light comes on, so the wts light is good, just no signal coming from controller? Where does your wires go when they leave the wts light?