Go ahead....Confirm my fears,

[Michael Fowler]

UPDATE:
Heads are off!!
The shop crane sure makes THAT exercise better.
My dilemna----How can I be sure the heads are not cracked? Is the only way to have the machine shop pull the valves and magna-flux them?
Sheesh....more expense!

 

[suv7734]

Mag them is unfortunately the only way. Most importantly have them pressure tested and pay particular attention to the intake seat area. They are known to crack and/or erode under the seats which does not always show when you mag them.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Well, Finally, some GOOD news.
The machine shop gave my heads a clean bill of health.
I have all the parts in hand, except the stud kit.
Still not going to get it back together for the Jimmy Cone, but I will be there.

 

[Diesel Fly]

Cool! Good to hear. As you'll see in my post, I'm possibly having issues with the oil cooler replacement... I'm not giving up yet though!

 

[Michael Fowler]

I got the head studs, the block surface cleaned, and the threaded holes all cleaned out, and threads chased. I am ready to reinstall the heads.
The ARP instructions have confused me so I have some questions.
They say to use ARP molly, or other molly in one place, and then in another, they say use ONLY ARP molly as any other product may cause head gasket failure.
What is the real deal?
What thread lube do I use?
Do I use sealant ONLY on the bottom row of head bolts as they are the only ones that go into the water jacket? What about molly on those bolts?
What torque value do I use?
Any other tips to prevent this from happening again?
I hope to add some form of boost to the intake at some point in the future. Does that change anything I should do?

 

[69oiler]

i went back to TDS and searched my posts and near as i can tell i torqued the studs to 85 ft lbs in 3 stages. i'm pretty sure the instructions that came with the studs said what torque to use.

posted by Mark (warwagon_s):
NOW is the time to make sure you have all of your block/manifold,etc., mating surfaces impecibly clean. Get a bottoming tap and clean out your block holes, then be sure they are CLEAN and dry inside. Also, make sure you follow the directions furnished by ARP for the procedure. Read over Warden's site (He just put studs in) for some guidance and you'll do fine. You can probably torque those ARP's to 90lb*ft without trouble (I did my new I/H screws to 85), just be sure to use the last pattern in the sequence for the higher torque pushes. Go 85 on both sides, then 90. Buy yourself a good new tube of Permatex RTV (If your gasket kit didn't already include it)

 

[Agnem]

About the only thing I'd add is to reinforce the "impecably clean" concept. You should feel comfortable with the idea of licking every inch of that block surface with your tungue. I'd suggest putting some peanut butter on it first, and when you have it all licked off, your good to go!

 

[Michael Fowler]

OK, thanks.
Any comment on the use moly as thread lube. Any moly OK, or must it be ARP?
Also, still looking for some guidance on how the thread sealant ( for holes in the water jacket) affects the moly, and/or the torque that should be applied.

 

[Agnem]

Michael, I don't think there are any head bolts that extend into the water jacket ? And wouldn't you just lube the threads with oil like a regular headbolt?

 

[Michael Fowler]

Mel,
I think the bolts closest to the exhaust manifold extend into the water jacket. I have read somewhere that where that happens, you should use some kind of thread sealer on them. I just can't remember where i read that, or if it is "general knowledge", or if it is not true.
That is why I am posting---I hope someone with (vast) IDI engine rebuilding experience will answer.

 

[Agnem]

I never put any sealer on any of my head bolts, and always had the tap hit the bottom of the hole.

 

[69oiler]

i used engine oil on the threads.