GearVendors Install question - Need Help

[apextrans]

Hey fellas,

Quick question needing a quick answer. I have the 2 piece rear shaft. GV says if the front shaft is 26 inches or longer, cut the front shaft. Then it says 26 inches or shorter cut the rear shaft. My shaft forward of the carrier bearing is exactly 26 inches. After measuring it out based on the overall lenth of the GV, that will leave me with a front shaft of about 11 5/8 from the center of the yoke on the GV to center of the carrier bearing. Is that acceptable for a shaft length? I've never seen one that short. If I need it longer I will have to move the carrier bearing back & shorten both shafts I guess. GV made it sound like the front shaft is all that would need shortening. Anybody please chime in. I got the electronics all buttoned up so I'm waiting on shaft decisions. Here's some pictures of what I have done so far. Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[apextrans]

trying pics again

 

[fiverpuller]

I scratched my head when I read the manual myself. Which one is it? If I put mine on the crewcab I think I will go divorced...I just like that install better. As far as the driveline goes I would run it by a driveline shop and get their opinion. Maybe call a GV installer and see what they do on the crewcabs. It seems that 11" is too short...but maybe it will balance out fine.

 

[apextrans]

I hate to say it but the GV guy aren't being much help at all. I did talk to a few driveline shops this afternoon. Opinions where mixed. It could be done, but balancing would be hard. As long as the driveshaft angles weren't extreme I will be OK. I mounted the adapter & unit tonite & took measurements again & still came up with 11 1/2 to 11 5/8 depending how far out I want the yoke. I may have to shim the carrier down some to maintain the original angles, but so far I guess I;m headed in the right direction. My buddy came over to grab the shafts & drop them off in the morning, so I'll know by tommorrow nite. Did you install yours yet? I didn't know about the divorce mount set up. GV never mentioned it.

 

[fiverpuller]

I haven't mounted mine yet. I still have to figure out which route I want to go and then get that right adapter. And that WON'T be cheap...$850-$1000 exchange.

So let me know how your driveline turns out. That is the easiest route. Then all I need is the bw1356 adapter.

 

[pafixitman]

GV

Scott,
I know Mel went with a divorced unit and just replaced the CB on Lady Moose.

I guess this means you will be driving the Peterbuilt if you show up tomorrow?

 

[Agnem]

Scott, I'd just go with the short shaft. The distance from the rear axle to the carrier bearing seems to be about the same on all the trucks. I was able to re-use the same rear drive shaft that was off of an extended cab, on the crew cab, and just got a new front shaft made up. A Pete decked out for auto's will probably have a tough time in my neighborhood, but it can be done bobtail.

 

[apextrans]

You fellas have no faith!! Drive shaft is being shortened as we speak (type). I should have 'em back in tonite for the trip tomorrow. Got another question though. Where do you connect the 4x4 lockout wire on a 1356. I found the only connector there is on the tcase which has two blue wires. One solid & one with a black tracer. Something in the manual said for "newer fords" use solid blue wire but didn't say where it was supposed to be. I wouldn't think 1988 is "newer". With the key on in 2wd the plug is hot on BOTH wires & the same in 4wd. The only difference is the light on the dash for 4x4 goes out when I unplug the connector. Is this the right wire to tap into for 4x4 lockout?

 

[Agnem]

Scott, I'm pretty sure the 4X4 indicator is a ground path operated light. Meaning that if you ground one of those wires, it should cause the 4X4 lamp to come on. I'd ask GV what they are looking for at the 4X4 connector. Voltage to indicate your in 4X4, or ground. If they are looking for voltage to indicate 4X4 use, then this could be tricky. I can't remember how it worked on the Moose Truck.

 

[apextrans]

I finally talked to someone @GV that knew their stuff. You hit it on the nose. I tapped the right wire last night, but didn't understand how it operated. After talking with Jeff @ GV, I Ilearned I had it installed properly then he explained how it works. I couldn't get the Autodrive light to cancel when I pulled back into 4x4. If the system was on prior to engaging, the light won't go out. However, if you engage before trying to activate the GV, it won't let you do it. That's what I was missing. I won this GV on Ebay & must have an old or incomplete manual. Nothing is explained very well. Thanks for the help though. I should be able to pick up my shafts in a few hours, so I'll test it out on the way to your house

 

[apextrans]

Got - R - Done :Sly

 

[Agnem]

Yea, I should have mentioned that. That "feature" is a pain. Once your on 4X4, even if you go back to 2wd, the GV will be disabled until power is removed from the unit. I had to put the GV electronics on a power switch so I could cycle it without shutting the truck off.

 

[rmyers2051]

My front shaft is only 11" long too, I finally replaced Ujoints in it at about 175k miles

 

[beretzs]

Sorry, I have been out of pocket for awhile, 11" driveshaft is fine, mine is smooth and no problems with balancing. I need to do something similar to Mel and make a swithc cause it is a pain to shut truck done and restart it. You can just uplug the telephone wire from the control box, but you have to be really sure you are out of 4wd. So how do you like it so far? Makes my truck a whole nother truck. Now I gotta lick my cooling problems. Scotty

 

[rmyers2051]

After 235k miles the speed sensor on my GV gave up, I just wired a 12v supply direct to the switch on the shifter and grounded the other terminal at the shift solenoid. Accidently shifting into double over while in4 wheel has never been an issue, even without the wire for lockout.