Gauges...gimme your opinions

[riotwarrior]

Just picked this fuel pressure unit and isolater up the other day, used but checks out ok,

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I hope to get a oil pressure setup similar so I don't have fuel or oil inside the cab area of my truck.

My hopes for all fluid filled/dampened guages are gone now with this one. Oh well. I have one a boost / vac guage boost to 20 lbs vac 30 inches I think. Slowly I am gathering my guages....

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

In my truck I have Isspro pyro and boost gauges...The problem is the boost is dusty and works intermittently. I would also like to an oil pressure gauge and a water temp gauge to compliment the factory ones and give me a better read besides low and high, or hot and cold.

My question is this. Do i keep the old school dash mounted pyro and boost, and just add a 2 gauge pillar pod(if i keep this option is there a way to fix a dusty gauge?)

Or go with all new gauges and a 4 gauge pillar pod?

It doesn't get any better than ISSPRO.

What do you mean by the boost-gauge being "dusty" ??


Like gatorman said, a fuel-pressure gauge is more important than any of the others, except maybe the pyrometer if you are dragging a big trailer in hill country.

Two fuel-pressures are even way better than only one.

Many is the fuel-filter that has been switched when it was not at fault.

A pair of gauges plumbed as gatorman has described will save more than enough on filters to justify the cost of the gauges.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My preferences in gauge brands.

1. ISSPRO

2. Stewart Warner

3. SunPro

4. VDO

5. ???

6. ???

7. ???

8. ???

9. ???

10. Autometer = too much plastic to suit my tastes.

 

[phazertwo]

Hmmm, i like my aurometers. However I also disagree about the fuel gauges. I would say pyro, and oil pressure are most important followed by boost and fuel. If you loose oil pressure it will cost allot more than if you loose fuel pressure. Like wise with the pyro and boost. Fuel pressure gauges are really nice for trouble shooting though and really can save allot on fuel filters!

PZ

 

[MidnightBlade]

It doesn't get any better than ISSPRO.

What do you mean by the boost-gauge being "dusty" ??


Like gatorman said, a fuel-pressure gauge is more important than any of the others, except maybe the pyrometer if you are dragging a big trailer in hill country.

Two fuel-pressures are even way better than only one.

Many is the fuel-filter that has been switched when it was not at fault.

A pair of gauges plumbed as gatorman has described will save more than enough on filters to justify the cost of the gauges.

would you just be able to mount one behind the filter and be able to tell if the filter is pluggged if it has a lower pressure?

 

[redneckaggie]

If you have high pressure before the filter then the filter is at fault, If you have no pressure before the filter then you have a dead pump.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

would you just be able to mount one behind the filter and be able to tell if the filter is pluggged if it has a lower pressure?

If you have only one, it should be behind the filter.

If you pay close attention to it and know what is "normal" for your engine, then when it slowly starts reading a bit lower day by day, then the filter is most likely stopping up.

However, if you simply all of a sudden lose pressure, you ??think?? it may be the filter, but it could be further upstream.

With a gauge on both sides of the filter, then there is no question as to whether the problem is the filter or not.

Make sense ??

 

[gatorman21218]

Hmmm, i like my aurometers. However I also disagree about the fuel gauges. I would say pyro, and oil pressure are most important followed by boost and fuel. If you loose oil pressure it will cost allot more than if you loose fuel pressure. Like wise with the pyro and boost. Fuel pressure gauges are really nice for trouble shooting though and really can save allot on fuel filters!

PZ

Its true loss of oil pressure is a lot worse for your engine then loss of fuel pressure. HOWEVER you already have a stock oil pressure gauge. Yes we all know its not a true gauge but at least it will warn you of a complete loss of oil pressure. I was more talking about if I were to add just one gauge, I would add a fuel pressure gauge.

That being said a vacuum gauge is also really important. Especially if you have vacuum (stock) brakes.

So I would add gauges in this order:

1. fuel pressure
2.Pyro
2a. E4OD/C6 trans temp (if so equipped)
3. Vacuum (if equipped with auto trans, vacuum brakes and or cruise control)
4. oil pressure
5. water temp
5a. Boost (if so equipped)
6. 2nd fuel pressure
7. Volt
8. oil temp

 

[RLDSL]

I'm beginning to loose faith in Isspro gauges. For years i had them in big trucks and never had one skip a beat but here lately I bought them new for my pickup and I have two buggy ones, a pyro and a temp gauge now and these things are only about 2 years old

 

[hesutton]

So I would add gauges in this order:

1. fuel pressure
2.Pyro
2a. E4OD trans temp (if so equipped)
3. Vacuum
4. oil pressure
5. water temp
5a. Boost (if so equipped)
6. 2nd fuel pressure
7. Volt
8. oil temp

Don't forget the C6. I had a temp gauge on the C6 in my crew cab and I watched it like a hawk. Even with an aftermarket trans cooler, I would have to keep a close eye on it.

Heath

 

[gatorman21218]

Don't forget the C6. I had a temp gauge on the C6 in my crew cab and I watched it like a hawk. Even with an aftermarket trans cooler, I would have to keep a close eye on it.

Heath

Ok i fixed it for you doc! Yeah ive never owned anything other than big green so i dont know about the automatics in these trucks.

I would like to install 2 new fuel level gauges and a compass on the side pillar. It would be nice to have fuel gauges that are even halfway accurate.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Ok i fixed it for you doc! Yeah ive never owned anything other than big green so i dont know about the automatics in these trucks.

I would like to install 2 new fuel level gauges and a compass on the side pillar. It would be nice to have fuel gauges that are even halfway accurate.

I put up with the silly factory gauge-senders for years.

Fill the tanks FULL and drive 150-miles before the needle moved at all, then still have six or more gallons sloshing around when the needle bottomed below "E".

Then, there were the dead spots where the needle would just drop to nothing until the fuel level got out of the dead spot and the needle resumed function.


I retrofitted the sixteen-dollar J.C.Whitney generic senders in place of the factory ones and they are as true as the girls in your dreams.

I took pains in adjusting the float-arms and when the tank is FULL, the needle is on "F", immediately beginning to drop as soon as I pull away from the pumps.

When the needle is on "E", there may be half-a-gallon still in there somewhere.


I finally installed a SunPro gauge and sender in the big auxilliary and the results have been equally as good.

 

[MidnightBlade]

If you have high pressure before the filter then the filter is at fault, If you have no pressure before the filter then you have a dead pump.

sorry, thats what i ment

 

[BleednBlue68]

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Crappy pic but I got my autometer ultra lites in. I have the green back lights. I love these gauges. Im thinkin of gettin a fuel pressure, amp gauge and oil pressure gauges. What you guys think? Or you guys recommend other kinds?

 

[redneckaggie]

same exact gauges I have and I will tell you that if you did not ground that pyro directly to the engine you probably want to do it right now. This was suggested to me by one of the gauge technicians at autometer when I called complaining about the needle bouncing all over the place, hasnt bounced since then.