Fuel tank 1/2 -1/4 full and truck stalls

[thegoal]

I believe this is a common issue but can't find any links.

I have a 1994 ford f250 4x4 7.3 diesel non turbo.

I was driving home from offloading and when I began driving up the hill to my house the car stalled. I had this happen a few times before but I think going offroad caused more damage.

Both tanks would show 1/8 full in the past and I would need to refill or the truck would run out if diesel.
After returning home from my trip I ran out at a 1/4 tank in the rear tank.

I have heard that the fuel tank selector or sender units in the tank are the issue?
Anyone have experience with this issue that could direct me in the right direction to begin repairing the problem?

I have seen hints at this issue but can't find links to repair kits or ways to fix this problem. Please help

 

[homelessduck]

It is common for the fuel pickup screen to fall off/ crumble which leaves you sucking air at 1/8-1/4 or so. All you need to do is pull the pickup and slide a piece of 3/8 diesel rated fuel hose over it. Use a good clamp and notch the bottom of the hose so it can't suck itself to the bottom of the tank. It's really self explanatory once you pull it out.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. The above is true. We have not found out why these shower head suction devices break off. But the repair is simple. Just add about 3 or 4 inches of 3/8 inch fuel rated hose and a clamp to the broken off suction line connected to the sender units in each tank./ Notching the bottom so it wont suck tight to the tank bottom is a good idea. Ot install a Tee at the end and you wont have a suction issues either. Now the rear tank is the tuff one to repair. You have to drop that tank or lift off the bed. Its up to you what way you do the rear tank. I can tell you dropping the rear tank with a 1/4 level in it will be heavy and no way can you balance it. Also please cut loose the suction and return lines from the frame cross member so you have enough room to drop tank and reach in to remove the lines from the tank and the electrical too. The front tank can be done just by reaching in and removing the sender. Knock loose the ring that holds it in the tank... Might be some dirt around it so clean it off before removel. Watch for the sender locating pin in the tank seal lip. If you ruin the square gasket just find one in any wercking yard gas or diesel ford tank... Usually you will find the tank in the beds because someone was trying to repair their senders or pickups. BTW those are pocket parts because you already paid the fee to enter the pick a parts...

 

[thegoal]

So is it hard to jack up one side of th bed ? Or do you have to lift it up completely?

 

[icanfixall]

If your choice is to remove the bed then it has to be completely removed to get at the sender so the pickup can be repaired. There just is not enough room to fix these pickups any other way.. Well some choose to cut a hole in the beds right over the sending units in the tanks. Then you have a hole in the bed to deal with. Those that have done this weld in a hinge so its eaier to reach next time.. Usually there is no next time...

 

[homelessduck]

I almost cut a hole in my bed and I was going to weld a steel plate with a hinge as Gary mentioned. I'm glad that I didn't. The rear tank is really easy to drop. If you have fuel in it just siphon out what you can. It only takes about 40 minutes to drop the tank, mod the pickup and toss it back in.

 

[tbrumm]

If you can take the bed off, that may be the easier way to go. I pulled my tanks from underneath. Getting the fuel lines, elec. connector, fill hose all disconnected from the top of the rear tank was a chore. I am glad I tackled the rear tank first becuase the front tank was easy after that. You have to lower the rear tank a few inches in the front so you can get your hands up in there and disconnect the fuel lines. On the '94, they will be the "quick" connect fittings so you will need that special disconnect tool to remove them. You definately do not want a 1/4 tank of fuel sloshing around while you are trying to do this - best to pump it out. I used my suction pump that I normally use for filling tansfer cases, rear ends, etc. Once the tank is out, you will want to get ALL the pieces of the old pickup "showerhead" out of the tank. In my case, the showerheads and completely disintergrated into a thousand little balck granules about the size of bb's. These can make their way into the fuel lines and get stuck in the fuel tank selector valve. Ask me how I know that! I made sure I throughly cleaned all of this out of both tanks. You might get lucky and your showerheads may not yet have disintegrated but have only fallen off and are simpoly lying in the bottom of the tanks. Apparently the plastic that Ford spec'd for these showerheads was not as diesel fuel resistant as they thought it would be. Good luck whichever way you decide to get the tanks out.

 

[thegoal]

So basically all I do is add a hose ? No cutting off old parts? Any chance you have a picture diagram? I understand exactly what your describing but if you had a diagram that would be awsome

 

[tbrumm]

Go to this thread http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?56485-Got-showerhead-! and you can read up on another discussion of this fuel tank pickup problem. basically, you will just attach a piece of 3/8" diesel rated fuel hose (I recommend Viton) onto the end of the inlet tube of the pickup with a hose clamp (or two!) Then put the sender back in the tank and look through the hole in the top with a flashlight. (pop out the rollover valve out of its rubber grommet) Adjust the length of the hose by cutting a little off until you are happy with how it reaches to the bottom of the tank and dont forget to cut a couple of v notches in the bottom end so it doesn't suck tight to the bottom of the tank. Probably need 4-5 inches of hose if you are just leaving the hose straight off the end of the pickup tube.

 

[thegoal]

I also need to ask my rear tank does not have straps like the side front tank to hold it in place. The rear tank was held up but the skid plate. Were there suppose to be straps or held by the skid late?

 

[tbrumm]

Nope - no bottom straps. The skid plates hold the tank up. I loosened the rear bolts on the skid plates and then cut a couple of 2x4's a few inches shorter than the distance from the ground to the skid plates. I then removed the front skid plate bolts and temporarily rested the front of the tank on the 2x4's. Helps to have another person hold the 2x4 "props" when doing this. This way, the front of the tank is lowered a bit so you can reach in above it and disconnect the fuel lines and wires form the sending unit and then drop the tank the rest of the way. If you have a floor jack for this, that would work even better.

 

[thegoal]

Everything worked great thanks

 

[tbrumm]

Good - glad you got it done. So, was the showerhead just rolling around in the bottom of the tank, or was it disintegrated? Enjoy the extra mile per tank now that you can use all the fuel!