fuel system happenings...

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I think he meant the bleeder was stripped.

Some slaves have bleeders, some don't, even on the same years.

 

[subway]

yep talking about the bleader on the slave cylinder. (unless i was messing with something else, it was dark in a parking lot) i just put clean cuts on the line and a john guist fitting (i think thats what it is called) in and was good to go. i didnt want to get into trying to replace individual parts with rusty connections. it was a 85 F250 btw.

 

[swampdigger]

Anyone bled the clutch hydraulics on an 80s Ranger? Skinny me even struggled to fit my hand up there to access the bleeder screw! If I recall it was on the top of the transmission, and there's not a lot of room between the tranny and body.

That was my first truck: I've since learned that when you've got the clutch hydraulic line taken off, don't let it sit in a pile of floor dry, or you will be buying all need clutch hydraulics. I love hard learning.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

figured ya'll could have a laugh....

OVERFLOW!!!! eep!

You must be registered for see images attach

dayum chock full

You must be registered for see images attach

nuthin' like pourin' money out...

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Diesel JD]

Hey, I had forgotten about the fact that you need to drain the fuel out of the tank you are working on, maybe out of both tanks to work on the selector valve. What you need is some clean 5 gallon buckets, they work real well. That's why I love my electric fuel pump, it makes a job like that tolerable. I don't know if anyone knows how to easily siphon fuel ot of those tanks, I believe they made it ******* purpose so someone can't steal your diesel. Good luck with the project... just keep your lines and wires stright, otherwise it isn't that bad,
J.D.

 

[adrianspeeder]

figured ya'll could have a laugh....

OVERFLOW!!!! eep!

You must be registered for see images attach

Or a good cry...

"The diesels worth the price of gold..."

Adrianspeeder

 

[JeffMoss1]

Yeah, with that rear tank being that full, that's a lot of fuel to siphon out while you're trying to fiddle with cheesy clips retaining the fuel lines to the valve. If you can get to them you can disconnect the lines at the tanks. If you can get to them. Might want to stock up on those clips too if you do this yourself. 3/8" and 5/16".
James

I replaced my fuel lines with normal fuel hose with fuel rated hose clamps...because those clips are annoying. I don't think i ever even got one off without breaking it. It's a pain to get to where the fuel lines attach to the tanks, but I think it's nicer than those attachments once it's done.

3/8" ID hose for the fuel line and 5/16" ID hose for the return line. Althought I have a tech service bulletin that says to use 1/4" ID hose for the return line when replacing, but I don't know why.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

When I gave up on stupid electric fuel valves and went to manual, I simply cut off the plastic lines and slid rubber fuel lines over the plastic and clamped; it has been like that for near twenty years and never a drip.

3/8" for draw and 5/16" for return.

The bigger the return line is, the more cooling/lubricating fuel can cycle through the injection-pump.

It is un-real how much fuel circles through the system, compared to how much actually gets through the injectors.

 

[tonkadoctor]

figured ya'll could have a laugh....

OVERFLOW!!!! eep!

Can't laugh, not too funny at $250 a gallon.

 

[yARIC008]

Can't laugh, not too funny at $250 a gallon.

Jesus, you really can't laugh...

I only pay $2.50

 

[tonkadoctor]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonkadoctor

You must be registered for see images attach

Can't laugh, not too funny at $250 a gallon.

Jesus, you really can't laugh...

I only pay $2.50

OOPS fingers aren't working too good today . That's not even close to funny

 

[adrianspeeder]

When I gave up on stupid electric fuel valves and went to manual, I simply cut off the plastic lines and slid rubber fuel lines over the plastic and clamped; it has been like that for near twenty years and never a drip.

3/8" for draw and 5/16" for return.

The bigger the return line is, the more cooling/lubricating fuel can cycle through the injection-pump.

It is un-real how much fuel circles through the system, compared to how much actually gets through the injectors.

Where'd ya get one, hows it work?

Adrianspeeder

 

[Agnem]

You don't need to drain the tanks. Some model years had a rubber hose that went from the fuel pickup to a hard line. You could just pinch the hose shut with a clamp if that is the case. An alternative, would be to get the truck on a step incline, that places the top of the tank lower than the fuel selector at the frame rail. You'll still get a bath from the engine end, but that flow will stop. I'd recommend removing the fuel filter if you go that route, to reduce the amount that is going to come out.

 

[adrianspeeder]

I was thinkin, if she needs to take a trip with this truck for the weekend, is there an easy way to temporarily hook up with some line just the one tank?

Adrianspeeder

 

[towcat]

careful on reccomending pinching off the lines. the feul has to go somewhere. I've had one fill the rear tank to capacity and then when it ran out of space, it proceeded to blow off the return line hoses off the caps.