fuel system happenings...

[4x4TruckinGirl]

OK.... Today I noticed what at 1st I thought was water dripping on my drivers side rear tire... seeing as to how it's as swamp around here and I am constantly going through puddles. Later... I noticed it was still dripping, and quite a bit at that... so i took a sniff... diesel, Coming from my rear tank, which I haven't put fuel in since november, but it was filled then and never got used. So i opened the cap and diesel poured out everywhere!!!! I can only run off my front tank at the moment. Now, on my to do list already is the fuel tank diverter valve, in fact i have it in my possesion, just haven't replaced it yet. Is that whats causing this or is it something else??? thanks ya'll!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I am going to venture a guess that your return line is not switching to the correct tank and is overfilling the unused tank.

 

[adrianspeeder]

Thats what happens with the EFI gassers now that I think about it. Time to get wrenchin' Sam. Need me to come down and lend some expertise? heh heh

Adrianspeeder

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

yea c'mon!!!..... do i look like a mechanic? hahaha. i can only do so much.

ok so if it is said return line.... what exactly am i looking for, or what do i need to get to fix it?

 

[adrianspeeder]

The return line sends back fuel from the motor and puts it into the same tank you have selected to draw from. Root cause for all above problems? Diverter valve. Solution? Replace diverter valve.

Adrianspeeder

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

ok sounds good to me.... guess thats my project, shoulda been done last weekend anyways.... slowpoke me.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Now, on my to do list already is the fuel tank diverter valve, in fact i have it in my possesion, just haven't replaced it yet. Is that whats causing this or is it something else??? thanks ya'll!

Put it off a hair too long. You're gonna havta get r dun and get r on. Nothing else I can think of would cause this.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

You could always hard plumb the lines to the rear tank to get rid of the fuel. You just need a short piece of metal line to bypass the selector valve.

Connect the line from the rear tank and the line going to the front together and cap the extra openings off.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

You could always hard plumb the lines to the rear tank to get rid of the fuel. You just need a short piece of metal line to bypass the selector valve.

Connect the line from the rear tank and the line going to the front together and cap the extra openings off.

And where is all the fuel cycling through the return line going to go??

Not being a smart A, just think I might learn something.

Thanks.

 

[Diesel JD]

The first thing to keep in mind when replacing the selector valve is you want to make sure the electronics function as they should. So you need to take the electronic harness that plugs into the valve loose and with the key on, two of those terminals will have 12vdc to them, when the switch is in one position you'll have +12v, in the other -12v, to verify that the switch works, put the leads of the voltmeter in the selector harness and find which two have voltage with the key on. There are 5 wires down there Brown w/ white stripe runs the gauge display on your dash, blue w/ yellow stripe I think is for the front tank sender and yellow with light blue stripe is for the rear tank sender. There is also a ground wire and then I believe it is the orange and black wires on the bottom two prongs that are "hot" with the key on. When you flip teh switch it reverses polarity to the valve which switches the fuel supply and return lines as the little electric motor flips over. If you have a Ford selector valve you won't have to mess much with the wiring. If you have an aftermarket part you may want to consider buying a Ford version as it will not fit with the stock harness and you will need to get all that wiring I just mentioned right, you'd need a schematic and the universal wiring adapter. In your case you just need to verify that the electronics work as designed(verify that the polarity switches on the harness) otherwise its real straightforward, the only real special tool you need is the fuel line removal tools. Good luck,
J.D.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

thanks JD... that info will deffinately be useful, i really appreciate it!!!

 

[towcat]

Here's one more thing to consider...
unless you like getting a shower with diesel feul and it will keep going as long as you have the system opened up, you might want to take this to a shop and get it done. Changing the FSV has got to be one of the worst jobs on our trucks. Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder comes to a close second.

 

[highest_vision]

Yeah, with that rear tank being that full, that's a lot of fuel to siphon out while you're trying to fiddle with cheesy clips retaining the fuel lines to the valve. If you can get to them you can disconnect the lines at the tanks. If you can get to them. Might want to stock up on those clips too if you do this yourself. 3/8" and 5/16".
James

 

[subway]

Here's one more thing to consider...
unless you like getting a shower with diesel feul and it will keep going as long as you have the system opened up, you might want to take this to a shop and get it done. Changing the FSV has got to be one of the worst jobs on our trucks. Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder comes to a close second.

actaully bleeding the clutch line was one of the easiests jobs i ever did on the truck. had on rub through one time and i added a splice but the slave was stripped so i couldent crack the system to bleed it. so i said the heck with it and used the starter at stop signs to the highway. got about a twenty mile highway drive, well by the time i got home the vibrations worked all the air out and my clutch was fine and it lived hapilly everafter the fixe ended up costing me nothing.

 

[towcat]

actaully bleeding the clutch line was one of the easiests jobs i ever did on the truck. had on rub through one time and i added a splice but the slave was stripped so i couldent crack the system to bleed it. so i said the heck with it and used the starter at stop signs to the highway. got about a twenty mile highway drive, well by the time i got home the vibrations worked all the air out and my clutch was fine and it lived hapilly everafter the fixe ended up costing me nothing.

on a IDI? the clutch line fitting is held on by roll pin(jesus clip's first cousin). There's nothing to screw in or strip....