Front Rotor Replacement

[mu2bdriver]

My front rotors are trashed. There is virtually no metal left on the inner part of the rotor after the driver-side caliper locked up. Is there a tutorial for a 1991 F250 rotor replacement in the DIY or elsewhere? Can anyone offer the appropriate pages of the tech books for me to review to prep for it? Any tips or other things I might want to change while I'm in there?
Thanks again in advance!

 

[Bashby]

Two or four wheel drive?

 

[mu2bdriver]

Sorry. 4WD

 

[USNENFTS]

My front rotors are trashed. There is virtually no metal left on the inner part of the rotor after the driver-side caliper locked up. Is there a tutorial for a 1991 F250 rotor replacement in the DIY or elsewhere? Can anyone offer the appropriate pages of the tech books for me to review to prep for it? Any tips or other things I might want to change while I'm in there?
Thanks again in advance!

The 87 to 91 F-Series/Bronco Haynes Manual has an excellent procedure for this. This job is..... Simple but EXTREMELY critical. On our trucks, the rotor rides on the wheel bearing. So when the rotor comes off, the wheel bearing comes out as well. So when it is put back together you MUST follow the procedure in the book otherwise very bad things will happen. I've done this 3 times on my F150 and twice on the F250 so I know everything in there. While you have it all off inspect the bearing and spindle. Post pictures if and when you get off if you are unsure of what to look for. If no large abrasions are present then your okay. I would just replace the bearings anyway, I did. You will need a Spindle Nut Socket for the stupid special nuts in there, I will send a pic of what to get. I have 2, because sometimes one doesnt fit but the other one does. I would do rotors, pads, calipers, and the wheel bearings. I will get those pictures up here by tonight. Just read through the procedure. Also, allow yourself the weekend to do this only because it's your first time. Hope this is helpful.

 

[HS108]

He doesnt know it yet, but ill bring mine over too so he can get double the practice

 

[mf7lakes]

Hey Mitsubishi,

maybe put your truck type, year, etc. in your signature ---helps us others.

 

[dunk]

On a similar note any recommendations on what rotors to get?

As for replacement... Very simple as others have said. Remove the hub (spindle nuts, need a special socket for D50/D60), press/hammer out the studs and it'll come apart with a little persuasion as it's likely rusted or corroded a bit. Knock the rust and corrosion off and reinstall is reverse of disassembly, just inspect and replace bearings and races if needed and repack bearings. I set wheel bearing adjustment just tight enough that there is no slop in the hub when gripping tire at top and bottom and rocking it. Recheck that in a few hundred miles and adjust if necessary.

 

[Waystro]

On a similar note any recommendations on what rotors to get?

As for replacement... Very simple as others have said. Remove the hub (spindle nuts, need a special socket for D50/D60), press/hammer out the studs and it'll come apart with a little persuasion as it's likely rusted or corroded a bit. Knock the rust and corrosion off and reinstall is reverse of disassembly, just inspect and replace bearings and races if needed and repack bearings. I set wheel bearing adjustment just tight enough that there is no slop in the hub when gripping tire at top and bottom and rocking it. Recheck that in a few hundred miles and adjust if necessary.

I used Napa brand Rotors they came with the Races installed. They where New.

 

[mu2bdriver]

The 87 to 91 F-Series/Bronco Haynes Manual has an excellent procedure for this. This job is..... Simple but EXTREMELY critical. On our trucks, the rotor rides on the wheel bearing. So when the rotor comes off, the wheel bearing comes out as well. So when it is put back together you MUST follow the procedure in the book otherwise very bad things will happen. I've done this 3 times on my F150 and twice on the F250 so I know everything in there. While you have it all off inspect the bearing and spindle. Post pictures if and when you get off if you are unsure of what to look for. If no large abrasions are present then your okay. I would just replace the bearings anyway, I did. You will need a Spindle Nut Socket for the stupid special nuts in there, I will send a pic of what to get. I have 2, because sometimes one doesnt fit but the other one does. I would do rotors, pads, calipers, and the wheel bearings. I will get those pictures up here by tonight. Just read through the procedure. Also, allow yourself the weekend to do this only because it's your first time. Hope this is helpful.

Thanks. I picked up the book today and will start going through it. I know the passenger caliper was replaced about a year ago so I'll just be doing the driver side caliper. A pair of new rotors, pads, and bearings. I'll grab that OTC nut socket from Autozone or just buy one on Amazon. I picked up a D50 rebuild kit from a member here a while back and it had bearing in it (Timkin Set38) among other things. I also have two front axle shaft u-joints (231); while I'm at it, do you think it makes sense to replace those as well? I'm sure they're new with ~190k on them. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!

 

[mu2bdriver]

Did this yesterday. A little under four hours start to finish for a new caliper, two new rotors, two new pads, two new bearings. I spent most of the week reading about it, reviewing diagrams, etc. so there weren't any surprises and it's a pretty straightforward and basic job. That nut socket is essential and worked flawlessly. The spindle looked great, hub internals just as good. I didn't replace the splash shields because they ended up both being serviceable after I scraped off a lot of metal/brake dust/dirt from the driver side one (that was the worse one). Here are a few pictures of the bad rotor; I wonder how long I was driving on it. I didn't notice any bad braking effects, just grinding at low speeds.

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And the new one...

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[The Bus]

I hate to even ask, but did you replace your front brake lines (frame to caliper) while you where there?

 

[Waystro]

^^^^
This. And also what brand Rotors did you Get?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Holy crap man, ya just caught that just before you had a catastrofic failure. That inside caliper pad couldn't of had any friction material left on it. Hopefully you put new pads on the other side.

 

[mu2bdriver]

Front brake lines, both sides, were replaced about 18 months ago and in good shape.
Rotors are AAP store brand. I've had good luck with them in the past, good warranty, and after spending more money on 'premium' lines in the past, I've noticed no difference.
Pads on both sides were changed.

I'll try to dig out the inside pad from the trash and post a pic of that. It was pretty 'well worn' as well. Braking now is silky smooth but now I'm thinking about hydroboost...

 

[laserjock]

That one was due.