From unknown used truck to dependable truck

direwulf23

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Posts
1,112
Reaction score
5
Location
Botkingburg (NCen), AR
Okay guys, here's the main thing I need you guys for. I bought a 1994 Ford F250, 2wd, 7.3L IDI, E4OD with 202k miles. My plan for this truck is for it to be my everyday companion for many years to come (in my dreams around about 20 years). I love the truck and it is what I really wanted (ideally it would have had a ZF5 and 4wd, but that's the only thing from the wishlist it doesn't have... yet).
The question is, considering I want this truck to last essentially the rest of my life, what do I need to check, work on, replace, or upgrade? If I had an unlimited budget I would just replace/upgrade everything (lol) but of course that isn't the case. Obviously I need to address the individual issues with this particular truck, but that's not what I'm asking. I'm asking what's a good investment and what's a waste? What should be done quickly and what should wait?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

direwulf23

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Posts
1,112
Reaction score
5
Location
Botkingburg (NCen), AR
Oh, any sort of additives that I should use routinely and any sort of routine maintenence I should maintain. I'm a total rookie with these trucks. I have drove diesel powered big trucks for several years now (8) but never owned one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

drinkypoo

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
1
Location
California
What's wrong with it now? Fix any leaks. Then drive it. If you are going to do a lot of hard towing with that E40D consider a crossflow trans cooler with its own fan.

Coolant requires DCA-4 or FW-16 or VC-8, all names for the same thing, or fleetguard coolant with coolant additive pre-added will supposedly work. People argue about oil all day but don't use Rotella T5, use Rotella T6 (full synthetic) if you want to go shell.

If you're pulling a lot of electrical power you can upgrade to a 3 liter taurus alt for under a hundred bucks complete, 130 amp 3G instead of 90 amp 2G.

If you don't have a turbo and find you need more power, get a turbo, don't fool around :)
 

direwulf23

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Posts
1,112
Reaction score
5
Location
Botkingburg (NCen), AR
Oh, I did leave that vital bit of info out. The truck has no turbo, which appeals to me. I don't anticipate needing more power and no turbo means less things to break (and they're really expensive). I have fixed two fuel leaks so far and keeping my eye out for anymore.
The only real issue currently is the transmission is throwing code 23, FPIL out of voltage range. I have a new one on and adjusted to 1.1/4.2v. I haven't managed to figure it out just yet. The code will clear when I scan KOEO and come back somewhere between 25 - 50 miles. Transmission runs good when not in limp mode but there might be some slippage going into 3rd (not entirely certain cause I seriously have almost no experience with automatic transmissions).
I bought electrical cleaner yesterday and will start a campaign of cleaning all electrical connections.
Without a definite diagnosis I have a strong suspicion of the MLPS/solenoid. But like I said, nothing real concrete but more of a feeling

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
682
Location
West coast
Usually we see any 94 rig has a factory turbo. Ford started adding turbos in the 93 1/3 year and followed thru the 94 year. Can you tell us the engine serial number found to the drivers side of the injection pump. It will start with 7.3 and have the letter K in th number. It should be at least 1,116,331 or higher to be a turbo block. anything lower than that is a replacement engine someone installed for any number of reasons. At 200,000 miles that engine is well broken in and will run many more miles no problem. But the injectors and injection pump may be shot if they have not been replaced yet. Usually they are shot by 125,000 miles or so. Running a quality fuel and oil filter will help mor than most owners know. The factory filters work very well and most here will run the motorcraft fl 1995 oil filter. It was designed for the psd engines but it works great for our idi engines too.
 

direwulf23

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Posts
1,112
Reaction score
5
Location
Botkingburg (NCen), AR
I look up the engine serial in a little while, but the truck does have an M engine code. It's a pretty base model (XL) overall

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

direwulf23

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Posts
1,112
Reaction score
5
Location
Botkingburg (NCen), AR
If I have the right number:
1816565C2
Does that sound right?
What would the procedure for figuring out/know if your injectors and IP are not working properly?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

rhkcommander

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Posts
2,604
Reaction score
91
Location
Oregon
If you want to keep it from breaking down and its in rough shape, you will probably want to look into: new hoses, belts, glowplugs, batteries, alternator, starter, return line kit, oil, oil filter, injectors, injection pump, and getting it timed. Maybe even the coolant, look up cavitation and running proper coolants with diesels.

If the owner used the wrong coolant then cavitation occurs, little airbubbles acting like jackhammers boring a hole from the water jacket to the cylinders. Not good.

My reasoning being this: most people out there don't do proper maintenance, when the glowplugs get tired then they crank harder on the starter, all that load can be ******* batteries/alt. If the hoses are original then it would be a good idea to swap - lower and upper rad, vacuum. It's not fun to suddenly lose power brakes just because the old vacuum hose is falling apart inside.

If the glowplugs aren't Motorcraft Beru (or Bosch but those aren't very good for the glowplug controller - better for manual glowplug control) there is a higher chance of them swelling up and breaking tips off inside the heads and mashing up valves and pistons until they find their way out or become one with the piston.

Test the lift pump, vacuum pump, alternator...

Electronic lift pumps are a great upgrade in that if you have air intrusion on the fuel system and/or run the engine dry on an empty tank it will make it much easier to start by purging air WITHOUT cranking the engine. The mechanical lift pump has to have the engine cranking to pump fuel. If you do have air intrusion you can just crank the engine several seconds before taking a break and trying to start it - until you fix the problems.

Check coolant for oil, check oil for coolant. Hopefully oil is in oil and coolant in coolant and not a mix :puke:

Could do a compression test to see how healthy the engine is doing, mid 400s or better is great. Less than that is getting tired, low 300s and lower is worn out.

The electrical system on these trucks tends to be crappy, get some electronic contact cleaner spray at the minimum. The passenger side has two fat wires that feed the glowplug relay but there is a connector between these and the battery. Often times corrosion builds up and fries this plug, most people just bypass this wire with one fatter wire. Can't remember gauges right now sorry.


What color is the exhaust? Gray just means it is cold, clear is good, black means too much fuel for too little air, blue means you are burning oil - bad rings, CDR pouring oil, turbo shaft leak, other oil source. These engines WILL run on oil, even their own. If that happens you have a runaway situation where turning the key off will not stop it. The only things you can do is try to ***** it out with CO2 fire extinguisher, blocking intake, or putting it in the highest gear you can and letting the clutch out while braking to try and stop it. Runaways are pretty rare, never had one myself but good to know about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLzf3ItkbOE

Keep a couple cans of fix a flat in the truck somewhere, extra oil, extra coolant, maybe a couple belts, starter fluid (DISCONNECT GLOWPLUG CONTROLLER FIRST BEFORE USE - HOT GLOWPLUGS+ETHER=BAD), that should be a good start.

My old engine was dead tired and she was semi-reliable. Just didn't like the cold but otherwise would start. These engines are very reliable if they aren't super abused
 

direwulf23

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Posts
1,112
Reaction score
5
Location
Botkingburg (NCen), AR
The story I got from the fellow I bought this truck from I would be the third owner. The first owner seems to have taken very good care of the truck, maybe not super specific to these trucks but knew how to take care of diesels in general. The guy I bought it from didn't abuse it completely, he seemed to be familiar with diesels, but his children did drive out some.
So far, the guy I bought it from seemed to be pretty honest. I believe he sold it because he didn't have to have a truck like this and there were some things come up that made him worry and he didn't want to get stuck with a big problem, such as transmission rebuild/replacement. I don't think he knew there was anything specifically wrong.
The truck definitely appears to be well taken care of.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
93,001
Posts
1,155,996
Members
26,589
Latest member
tke395

Members online

Top