FOr those wondering about the Scotseal XL plus for the rear hub seals on the 10.25...

[RLDSL]

wonder no more.
In case anyone has wondered about how well those hand press in scotseals might work ( since they look like they would just flop around and fall out ), I gotta tell you, once those suckers go in, they STAY in. I had to pull one of my hubs to replace it due to some axle bolts that failed and went to pull the hub off and that sucker was locked to the axle! that crazy 2 piece seal that rotates within itself is a pretty neat little critter, it makes leakage past the seal pretty darn near impossible unless you set a bearing too loose and get it to warbling out. I finally ended up prying the outer section off with the hub while the inner section remained locked to the axle , then pried it off from there. There were zero signs of any oil on the brake sides of the seal as should be expected.

In retrospect, the replacement hub I got from a boneyard came with one of those regular sliding seal and slinger setups on it that is the ford leak fix and that looks to be a mighty low tech fix in comparison

I do have a new Scotseal to go on the replacement hub . Happiness is dry brakes

 

[Iowa 73]

I replaced one, they leak like the others. I went with the upgraded Ford unit with the slinger.

 

[towcat]

been using CR for years. installed properly, i never have to worry about them again until it's time to tear them out. imho they seem to handle heat better than the ford ones.

 

[02x72]

Ive had one of the Scottseals in for over a year now and have zero leaks on that side of the axle anymore. Will definitely use them again when the other axles are in need of it

 

[Matrix37495]

We have a semi trailer with similar seal.... i used the forklift to pull the hub off...

 

[82F100SWB]

I always use the Scotseals. The ones on the 10.25 in my mud truck are 10 years old and have been exposed to the elements with the rear discs for the last 5 years and no leaks. The pass hub got chewed up by the park brake lever and should be replaced as half of the thickness of the seal is exposed because that part of the hub is plain old missing... It still doesnt leak... lol

 

[TWeatherford]

Anybody have a part number for the ones needed for our trucks?

 

[02x72]

#34386 is what I have written down that I used on mine. Its been a while since I did it, so I dont remember exactly but I''m thinking there were supposed to be different part numbers for different years, but that number is for a 1993 axle, and it fit in my 1989 axle, so as far as I can tell they are all the same.

 

[PwrSmoke]

My original '86 seals have never leaked... and I've owned the truck since '87. Is this a common problem?

 

[79jasper]

#34386

Is that number still good?
Anyone know cheapest place for them?

 

[gatorman21218]

subscribe

 

[79jasper]

I found this one. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...al-Plus-XL-Rear-Wheel/_/R-NOS34384_0362904400

Seems to be a new number???

 

[jrad235]

Buy it on Rockauto. I paid way too much because I needed it asap. $20 on Rock, $35-40 Local. National# 370047A

 

[79jasper]

Buy it on Rockauto. I paid way too much because I needed it asap. $20 on Rock, $35-40 Local. National# 370047A

But is that the one piece or two piece?

I like that price better, but it's not the same seal. (Same sealing location, just "inferior" design I guess)

 

[Dave Barbieri]

It's a cross=reference thing. Several folks build a 'similar' seal. I haven't laid eyes on each of them, so I don't know if they're identical. This is from Rock Auto:

National 370047A $20.79
Timken 370047A $16.79

SKF 34384 $28.79

The part number change is discussed here:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1417197