Flashing Overdrive Light after IP pump install

matt-jenkins

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I installed my new IP on saturday and tonight when I was driving I noticed that my OD light would start to flash and would not shift properly, Is it possible that when reinstalling the FIPL on the new pump it did not get installed properly? I remember pulling it off the old pump, and wondering how the heck you properly fit the slotted piece on the side into the pump into the FIPL properly it doesn't have a slot in it more of a circle with two tabs.

Hopefully somebody has an idea of what I am talking about, im praying my tranny isn't to blame.
 

GenLightening

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You need to set the FIPL voltage. When you swap it to the new pump, it is probably not within specs and causing the trans computer to freak out. Do a search on how to set it and you should be good to go.
 

DragRag

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I second that motion. If your fipl has lots of miles, I would put a new one on for good measure. They are cheap, and actually only specked to last about 60k miles anyway.
 

OLDBULL8

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The little tab from the pump has to be under the tab of the FIPL towards the front of the engine so that it rotates the FIPL clockwise. --/__ The angle mark is the pump tab, the 2 dash is the FIPL tab on the left, the long mark is the FIPL tab on the right. The angle mark would rotate turning the FIPL. Hope you understand that.
 

matt-jenkins

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Glad to hear it should be an easy fix, I'll go buy a new FIPL tomorrow and install it.
 

icanfixall

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I wouldn't be driving the truck with this issue... Your trans is in limp home mode. It will shift very hard and usually only 2nd and reverse are all you have. The voltage thru this switchis between .96 and 1.2 volts... I know this sounds low but thats what works. To set this voltage you need a digital voltmeter. Get one with the sharp points pickups because you need to test thru the center wire at the switch. Ground directly to the battery. Turn the ignition switch on but do not strat the engine. Now check the voltage. Adjust the switch by turning it forwards or backwards till you find the voltage between .96 and 1.2... The lower the voltage the softer the shifts are. I prefer 1.2 volts... Now check the wide open voltage by opening the injection pump throttle wide open.... It must be less than 5 volts... I dought you will see anything close to 5 volts.. If it is then the trans computer will shut down on over voltage. These systems are sensitive so be cautious when adjusting this switch. Its best to remove the cold advance solenois wire so the fast idle is not affecting the idle setting. Ask questions if any of this is not clear. Also if you look at the mechanical connection between the switch the the rotatin tab you will see how this switch connects to the pump... There will be some wear marks from the turning tab...
 

matt-jenkins

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Just got inside from adjusting the voltage, Reads 1.144 at idle and 3.84 at WOT yet I still get the flashing light and Limp mode, anything else I could try besides replacing the FIPL? I'll buy a replacement tomorrow if not.
 

dyoung14

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Just got inside from adjusting the voltage, Reads 1.144 at idle and 3.84 at WOT yet I still get the flashing light and Limp mode, anything else I could try besides replacing the FIPL? I'll buy a replacement tomorrow if not.

Its supose to be no higher than 1.2, your reading is still higher
 

Goofyexponent

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Its supose to be no higher than 1.2, your reading is still higher

Dave! I know it's early man, but 1.144 is lower than 1.2!! :rotflmao.

Matt, sometimes you need to disconnect the batteries (grounds only) and then let it sit over night. This will reset the computer.

If this STILL persists, have it scanned. My truck flased an OD light for a month and look at what I got out of the deal....$1500 for a 5 speed swap!

It might be as simple as a fluid and filter change.
 

dyoung14

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Dave! I know it's early man, but 1.144 is lower than 1.2!! :rotflmao.

Matt, sometimes you need to disconnect the batteries (grounds only) and then let it sit over night. This will reset the computer.

If this STILL persists, have it scanned. My truck flased an OD light for a month and look at what I got out of the deal....$1500 for a 5 speed swap!

It might be as simple as a fluid and filter change.

Damn i need to sleep better at night:rotflmao
 

dyoung14

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LOL...you and me both! I rolled the 4 wheeler over last night an banged up my leg...so I couldn't sleep at all!!:mad:

I got a couple FIPL's here up for grabs....I got to track them down, I don't need them with the ZF swap done.

Dang dude that really sucks!
 

Goofyexponent

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Dang dude that really sucks!

My own stupid fault. I used to be REALLY efficient on a 4 wheeler, dirt bike or anything like that when I had my own........some 12-14 years ago. I have learned that as you age, your body don't work as fast as you want it to, and you forget things with time. One stupid mistake on a jump and I was done lol. All I did was lay there and laugh my @$$ off.

Dave, on another note I am done fighting with canada post. I get paid tomorrow (BIG pay) so I am going to take the controller to the post office, put it in a bubble wrap envelope and send it by the FASTEST means possible.

I also have to mail Towcat's flexplate, and if you are interested in a couple free, known good FIPL's (at least 2 are good, one is brand new) let me know and I will send them this weekend.
 

matt-jenkins

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On my way to go pick up a new FIPL, lets hope leaving the batts disconnected for a while when I get home will be enough to reset the computer.
 

pafixitman

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disconnect the negatives also. WalMart / AZone etc sell the code reader for under $30. You can reset the codes with that.

My experience has always been....if it has a code any "correction" you make with out resetting the code will cause the code to continue to display.

Not sure of the exact logic etc. but my understanding is most of these computers need to see everything correctly for a series of starts before they reset themselves. Something like three starts with no error will rest. I could be very wrong though!
 

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