Factory Gauges

[Goofyexponent]

I don't have the schematic in front of me, but to the best of my recolection from converting the Night Moose which has your style cluster, the temp gauge is fed with 12 volt from the gauge cluster itself, and this then goes through a resistor the value of which I don't know for sure but might be around 22 ohm, then the ground side of the gauge goes to the sender, which provides the reference signal. The oil presure guage is in fact a switch, but I'm pretty sure the temp gauge is not a switch on any model year. A gauge that still reads above cold when the wiring is disconnected, indicates a short somewhere in the wiring, or as was stated the armature in the gauge may be stuck. I have a gasser cluster you can have for your model year that you could steal the gauge out of if this is the case.

Mel, I appricite the offer, but I found something out the other day. Usually the truck NEVER goes on the highway, but there was an accident on my usual route home, so I decided to take the highway. I have my pump turned up one flat, so I don't like to push it on the main drags where it has to climb hills and keep up woth traffic.

Anyways, I am cruising long at about 55 MPH when I look at the factory temperature gauge....it's reading in the normal area.....about the N and the O. I felt my stomach drop as I looked at my aftermarket gauge...but it was only at 205*.......it made it to 210*, because my clutch fan is shot, and I have another to install...jsut no big wrench to change it...but the reason my gauge wasn't working is becuse driving the 5 miles of 35 MPH traffic was NEVER enough to get the truck up to operating temperature....190 ish was the hottest I could get her on city streets.

I got a factory sender the other day from a parts store (ford brand) and I popped it in....same difference. I am going to do a coolant flush, thermostat and gasket change and oil change next month, so we shall see if that makes a difference.

Who was the member that has a plasma table that cuts custom patterns....I need a clutch fan wrench to add to my tool box!

I was thinking about a short stubby wrench about 6 or 8 inches long, that you could snap a 1/2" powerbar or ratchet into and use like a socket instead of a 4 foot long wrench hanging off the side of my box. know what I am saying?

 

[freebird01]

that would be me...send me a PM

 

[franklin2]

Anyways, I am cruising long at about 55 MPH when I look at the factory temperature gauge....it's reading in the normal area.....about the N and the O. I felt my stomach drop as I looked at my aftermarket gauge...but it was only at 205*.......it made it to 210*, because my clutch fan is shot, and I have another to install...jsut no big wrench to change it...but the reason my gauge wasn't working is becuse driving the 5 miles of 35 MPH traffic was NEVER enough to get the truck up to operating temperature....190 ish was the hottest I could get her on city streets.

I got a factory sender the other day from a parts store (ford brand) and I popped it in....same difference. I am going to do a coolant flush, thermostat and gasket change and oil change next month, so we shall see if that makes a difference.

I hope you realize there is nothing wrong with your truck.
#1. I believe you have your aftermarket gauge in the hole in the corner of the head correct? It will read hotter there than at the factory location for the factory gauge nearer the waterpump.

#2. Your fan clutch may be shot, most are, but you haven't got the engine hot enough to even find out. 210 is not hot at that location on the head, and by design, the fan will not lock on till the temperature gets higher. Most people agree the factory clutch waits too long before it kicks in, but you are definitely not hot enough to see if it works. No one knows what "normal" is on the factory gauge, but I bet it has to read at least 1/2-3/4 scale before the fan will kick in.

 

[Goofyexponent]

I hope you realize there is nothing wrong with your truck.
#1. I believe you have your aftermarket gauge in the hole in the corner of the head correct? It will read hotter there than at the factory location for the factory gauge nearer the waterpump.

#2. Your fan clutch may be shot, most are, but you haven't got the engine hot enough to even find out. 210 is not hot at that location on the head, and by design, the fan will not lock on till the temperature gets higher. Most people agree the factory clutch waits too long before it kicks in, but you are definitely not hot enough to see if it works. No one knows what "normal" is on the factory gauge, but I bet it has to read at least 1/2-3/4 scale before the fan will kick in.

That's where I put the sender....where the max temp switch SHOULD be...in the corner of the head. I figgured that when it pops off at 240*...it's going to be too late anyways.

The reason why I think my clutch fan is shot is because when I shut my truck off it rattles and squeaks and spins freely.....a lot more freely than one should. I figgured I should change it anyways, but I need the tool...which I am pm-ing about RIGHT now!