Engine rebuild tips

bigred*

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Ugh, i cant believe im having to do this.. Haha my $500 steal has tyrned for the worst, soive been having some issues, mainly fuel issues.. I will admit, this was my first diesel and i had no clue you dont use starter fluid on these.. I have learned soo much in the past few weeks..
First time i started the truck with starting fluid i dont remember any smoke out if tge ordinary, but lack of fuel so it wouldnt drive

Replaced the ip, mechanical lift pump and some cracked fuel lines and im finally getting good fuel delivery, need to replace the injectors next.. During replacing these parts over time i continued using ether to start, usually itd only run for a few seconds, then one day i started loosing coolant out the front of my block, stained my drive way about the size of the truck, coolant leak wasnt there when i got it

Well heres how it currently is, it will not start without a small shot of ether, sometimes it makes a real loud squeal when it starts up, itll rev up high then drop down to like 100-200rpm,the tach doesnt even recognize it, i dont know how it doesnt stall, then itll slowly works its way back up to about 800rpm,and it smokes alot. I thought i was having a fueling issue causing the smoke, however when i fixed the fueling issue, the idle and revving got better, but the smoke got heavier. Itll idle forever, but the engine shakes pretty bad every few seconds like its missing, when i rev it up usually itll stitter trting to rev up, and it smokes so much, like it looks like a cloud from the sky in my front yard, i cant see through it it gets so thick, turned it off for fear of cops being called.

I have no air conpressor for a pressure test.. In the sunlight the smoke sometimes has a blue tint in it, which double worries me that i have rings going out also.. Im pretty sure i blew the head gasket, cuz the coolant looks like its coming right out the head gasket, and i think i blew it by trying to start with ether! Headbang!

Wanna see if you guys have any tips or advice on things to try. What im thinking im gonna do is i can get a gasket kit on ebay that comes with head bolts, valve guide seals, intake gasket ect for $160. And im thinking im just going to take the fron of the truck off, radiator, grill bumper ect and just leave the engine mounted in the truck.. Lets hope i didnt crack a piston, and with the heads off, i should be able to look in the cylinders to see if its cavitation right? Idk does this sound like a bad idea? Dang truck.. At least if i do this on the resale i could say NEW HEADGADKETS! Haha do you guys see an alternative.. Im not to disappointed if i go this route, think another $100 to machine the heads, id be less then $1000 into including purchase price and have a great running diesel.. I am curious though why it wont start without ether though, even if it has a blown head gasket id imagine itd still start up on it own.. I know i have one bad glow plug on the good head gasket side..
 

OLDBULL8

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All I can say is, your going to have a hell'va time trying to rebuild without pulling the engine, those heads weigh 85 lbs and are hard to get back on over the location dowels, they have to go back on at an angle, very difficult. I did one head in the truck using an engine hoist with an electric hoist, even that was difficult. You can easily screw up the head gasket. For the smoke, you probably have the IP well retarded, advance it toward the pass side about 1/16", try that. Advance it until you have a clatter when the engine is cold, should smooth out when it gets hot. Good Luck. You need a engine hoist and a engine stand that will hold at least 1000 lbs with all the accessories and exhaust manifolds pulled off.
 

bigred*

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Hmm, well i have a engine hoist, itll do 1 ton on its shortest setting, on its longest i still dont think it could lift high enough to get the engine out.. Though if i have the front off i guess itd be real easy to just slide it out the front.. Dont have an engine stand though.. Want one.. And it needs a new clutch also so thatd be way rasy to get with the engine out.. The po of the injection pymp said he did mess with the timing.. Hummm..
 

riphip

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Also sounds like you replaced the IP and missed a tooth or 2. Been there, done that.
 

bigred*

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Could that cause it to smoke as much as it was and shutter when it was revved? I still have some test to verify if it is a head gasket, but ive just kinda been preparing for the worst, when i did the ip i didnt take the timing cover off, though at first i did try and titled it pretty far forward, couldnt break the dang silicone though then i learn hiw to bend the wrench to take the pump off the timing cover.. Itd be worth looking into, id be so much happier with that
 

Brad S.

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Just a fyi on some costs on rebuild.
About a year ago had my heads rebuild, completely, new valves, seats, springs, little bit milled off etc.
That was about $900.
If you do pull the engine and don't have a stand, keep it off the floor with a couple old tires....???
For a IP wrench, just flatten out or grind down the box end so its thinner. I did this and seems to work good.
 

bigred*

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Well i have an in at my machine shop, and i probably wouldnt bother with new valves, maybe new seats, but i was thinking just mill a little off the top is all, this is a beat up old truck haha if it runs (without clouding the neighborhood) im happy, and i already bent a wrench, its working great..
Hey so now that i think about it, i really wonder if this could cause a problem, when i put the ip back on, it only goes on one way, cuz the studs stick out of it, but i swear its not straight, it looks like its rotated a little bit, like if your standing at the grill its like its spun 2 degrees clock wise.. But being that its going on the studs sticking out of the timing cover i dont know how it could be crooked..
 

riotwarrior

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sounds like yer in a pickle..

In frame is not all that good, can't do rear seals can't get block cleaned out...lots of reasons to do a proper out of frame overhaul.

Rings bearings and gaskets and heads done should be good to go, but all depends on whatchafindinsidethatbeastfordestruction

That being said...some good info here for swaps
IMHO....and I'll reiterate this for the umpteenth time.....

REMOVE the clip...the front rad support and fenders and inner fenders...

It inevitably makes working on the truck much much easier...also if you remove only rad support, there is almost if not MORE work to do than the just removing the entire front clip...

Having to undo a bunch of small bolts in the corners of fenders and so forth for just a rad support...

it's 12 bolts to remove the clip along with removing rad and so forth. YES 12 bolts

each fender or side of truck as follows

2 bolts by hood hinges

1 bolt accessed on rear edge of fender by opening door

1 bolt under lower rear lip of fender by door

1 bolt accessed in fenderwell holds inner fender structure in place

1 bolt on each side of the rad support...which are the worst usually...( need get these two anyway to remove just rad support right fella's???)

12 bolts....total...

Now you have more access than you can imagine...and NO need to remove fan what so ever...

lots of room to clean, paint, do what ever it is you need to do.

I have this down to about an hour to do and two buddies to remove ....Once rad is removed of course!

Of course there is a few small details, unclipping wiring harness from firewall and chassis but this is in my opinion the absolute best method for engine removal if you have room to do so!

JM$2.00W this time

end rant

E D I T


BTW you can leave hood on or remove it...both methods work..one allows cover of engine one allows more room for less head banging!LOL

Don't forget to use SEARCH here as there is TONS of info on engine building and lots of threads on it...pick through and be informed...
 

stealth13777

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Yes there are. I did one recently with a lot of questions I would deem 'stupid' or noob haha. But I had no idea what I was doing haha


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bigred*

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So i feel like an idiot, but i fixed it!! No blown head gasket!! :D so the symptoms, very very hard to start, dripping coolant, i could see the coolant dripping off the head gasket, and when it would start, white smoke everywhere, lots of white smoke, stumbling idle and would shutter when it tried to rev like it was missing.. I hadnt gotten around to testing the coolant, but to me it all pointed to a head gasket, which i thought i blew using ether to start

Well here was the fix, when i installed the injection pump, i thought it only went on one way, i didnt know it could be rotated left or right, and i thought it was odd that my pump didnt look straight

After some investigating i found out that my pump had been installed as far right as possible, and then i noticed the coolant line ontop of the engine, i loosened it to take it off to install the ip, then i realized i could leave it on and still get to the pump, but i never tightened it back down! Tightened the coolant line and spun the pump back, well the coolant leak stopped, still no start, so i plugged in my newly discovered block heater (lol) let it warm it up fot an hour and it fired right up and ran great without smoking!! So now im thinking im not getting power to my glow plugs, but its running! Its been between 30-40 degrees so its pretty cold but im so glad it going, thanks for the help guys
 
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