Electrical Failure Suddenly

icanfixall

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Well as it states. I just started up after a business vist. Backed out of parking spot and engine died. Cranking but no fire. All factory and aftermarket gauges working fine. Electric lift pump working well too. Smelled burning electrical something so lifted hood found nothing. Just hate working on hot engines.:mad: Turned on ignition key and cranked again. Still no fire but good cranking speed so I left key of and lifted wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid in the injection pump. No click heard. So ran a jumper wire from positive battery and touched the fss lug. Got a click so now I have power to run engine. Got in and fired up. Drove home. Switched off ignition and engine still runs as expected. Lift jumper and it quits. Ok fine, now wheres the burned wire. About 4 inches back from the main engine wire harness plug I see a melted wire. It appears to be a fuseable link going into the plug and ending at the fender solenoid. WTH is this. Wont be working on it till its cooled down. Wire appears to be blue but not really sure. Is the injection pump solenoid on a fusible link???
 

Kizer

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Yep. Mine cooked when I grounded my lift pump relay, by accident.
You can buy a 20amp link, or wire a fuse holder in.
I used it as an opportunity to wire a kill switch in.
 

ifrythings

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Theres 2 fuse links that go into the engine plug, there both blue and one feeds the ip, glowplug controller and high idle +timing advance, the other one feeds the fuel heater, blue fusible link is an 18ga link
 

icanfixall

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Thanks for the answers. My fast idle solenoid has been disconnected for about 3 months. It was staying on too long or shutting down too fast. I replaced the sender behind the thermostat housing but it only worked for a few months. Really not sure if the power was still going to the cold advance in the top of the injection pump. May have been. What I will do is remove the fuel heater because thats a suspect area and nobody so far has determined if it really does any good or not. I know plenty members have removed theirs because they leak and allow air into the filter causing hard starts. I see no reason to have a fuel heater really. I have the positive disconnected and now will go see whats burned and what it feeds. I'm not a happy electrician ever too.
 

icanfixall

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Found 2 heavy red with oak tracers going into the fuseable link but only on coming out of it. Appears the issue was the main engine harness plug so I bypassed it. Followed the wire to the shut off solenoid and maybe the cold advance and fast idle. Removed the fuel heater wire because I really don't need it here is so calli.
 

OLDBULL8

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As an electrician by trade, I've messed with 14.5 KV on down to 120 VAC. No problem. I just really really dispise/hate automotive lousy 12VDC systems. :eek: :puke: something is always hunting hunting hunting for a ground someplace, but I do like the ozone smell of hot wires. :rotflmao :D
 

theguruat12

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Electrical gremlins are annoying as hell. That being said, I love tracing stuff, IF I don't have a time constraint.

AutoZone has new fusible links with a few crimp connections, that are about 5 inches long, for a few bucks. That's what I used to replace an iffy-looking one on my truck until it's rewired.
 

Ruger_556

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You guys :rotflmao I love troubleshooting 12v electrical systems ( Although multiplexing can be nightmarish at times). Now on the other hand, any and all household wiring... -cuss I just let someone else do that.
 

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