Electric fuel pump wont push gas unless engine cranking?

[Clb]

If you dip mine below 2800 you will be taking a gear asafp!

 

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Oh
And

 

[Big Bart]

 

[Clb]

This right here...
Did we fix this yet?
@Jbone36

If you have your fuel filter tied into the return line system like it normally is from the factory (at least it is on both of my 6.9's), fuel will be pumped into the return line system, which can help with air purging. Plus it'll be at pressure when you start cranking, unlike the mechanical pump that has to build up pressure when the engine begins to crank over.

 

[Clb]

Yep as said above the fuel filter is getting purged of air, which is where the fuel drain-back affects our systems.
The good thing about the IP being a dead head when off means it's not losing it's prime. Just the fuel filter and if you have the line to the return system intact all the air will blow out of that right away and not into the IP once it starts turning.
Also very good point about fuel drain-back vs air intrusion by @IDIBRONCO. They are often confused but are definitely not caused by the same issue.

Attention to detail is a big part of this situation.



details like
discharge gph
restricted flow gph rates
wiring issues
And my fav
engine fuel consumption rate per hour...

So does the faccett shut off once it hits head pressure?
I forget

 

[Big Bart]

We should not leave out

1) Overall lift both before and after pump
2) Hose length and diameter
3) Inlet/outlet size on pump. Fitting restrictions from adding hose barbs
4) Aftermarket filter/water seperators that were installed
5) Is someone trying to replace a mechanical or augement like The Josh Bear
6) Pump PSI graph based on volume out
7) Diesel viscosity testing by temp of pump throughput

Since likely other than our noted goto shops for IP's and injectors, we do not have anyone on this site perhaps are engineers by degree, have professional experience in fuel systems by trade, have the equipment in their home/shop to do the proper testing, and have tested all the options and published for the member ship. Most members thus had do to so by trial and error.

My advice for those who are not, have a stock engine and IP pump, want an e-pump, do not want to do so by trial and error, learn from this membership and start with the Holley Red. Several have suggested it worked out of the box, it is a very repitable brand, and parts are available. (I have yet to read a members suggest it did not work.) To IDIBronco's point some have had success with Walbro pumps.

JBONE36 sorry your thread went from helping you out to the nuances of e-pumps. Hopefully the first part of this thread cleared up the common confusion that e-pumps can overcome/mask all the common IDI fuel challenges. As you read, it helps with some, but not others.

 

[Clb]

I miss
@powersmoke

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

So does the faccett shut off once it hits head pressure?
I forget

Nope they never shut off, just have a bypass circuit or similar.

 

[Clb]

That's what I thought...
Thanx

 

[Rondo]

My 93 7.3 turbo died on the road today. I have only 30 miles on my full tank. I could not get it to start or bleed the air out. Mechanical pump only has 1300 miles on it. My nephew had an electric edelbrook fuel pump on the fender that he had been using. I hooked it up before the mechanical pump and got it started. I have read that the fuel should shoot across the engine from the schrader valve. Mine just dribbles, kinda like me. I will be adding a decent electric on payday.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I will be adding a decent electric on payday

That's the key. These engines need more volume than they do pressure. Cheap pumps usually are good for temporary/emergency use only. If you plan to run an electric pump full time, you should bypass the mechanical lift pump on the side of the engine. Too much pressure can rupture the diaphragm inside it and cause fuel to be pushed into your oil pan. Then your oil will be thinned out and cause bearing issues due to lack of lubrication.