egt temps

[BrandonMag]

Years ago I put a K&N on a 3 wheeler. Suddenly I was rebuilding it 2x a year. Went back to an oiled foam filter and it ran 10+ yrs with no engine work.

Is this the literal truth?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Now if we could just figure out how to put a constant oiled air filter on these Diesel's, they would get a lot of good clean air flow.
Had a 1967 GM 35 ft Greyhound bus with a Detroit 8V71 engine for 12 years, that weighed ~24,000 lbs with 885,000 miles according to the rear wheel mounted odometer on it when I sold it. Was still getting ~11.5 MPG at 55 MPH, top speed was 72 MPH at 2100 RPM. As far as I know, the engine had been "rack out" overhauled at ~500K miles according to the maintenance records. I did change the tranny over to a V730 Allison, installed power steering and air controlled throttle. I could get 1000 leaking miles on a gallon of Rot,tella 15W40.

But, getting back to the air filtration, I would clean the air filter and change the oil in it every ~4000 miles, there would always be 1/2" to 3/4" of sludge in the bottom of it. I put about 70,000 miles on it. That just shows how dirty the air really is. Course that's an engine with about a 123 CID's more than a 7.3. (568 versus 445).

 

[jayro88]

New to the forum. Just got my first diesel; 1991 ford E350 van. Runs great, put a Hypermax 3 1/2" exhaust and k&n air filter. Did new return lines and glow plug relay. Timed it with Ferret meter at 8 degrees at 2000rpm. Egts : around town 35-45mph 400-500. On flat Texas interstates no load 65mph- 700, 75mph- 800, 80mph- 875. These are steady crusing speeds. When I accelerate from 65 to 80 temps go to 1000 then level off to 875-900. Are these temps normal ? Haven't towed anything yet and worried egts might get too hot. Egt is an Autometer sportcomp, probe is in passenger side manifold . Stock timing was at 6.5 and egts were cooler, van seems to have more pep at 8. any help would be helpful. Thanks, Fitzy

Those seem little high, but it may depend some on your gearing. I have an Autometer Digital EGT gauge with the probe in the rear drivers side cylinder manifold. IP timed to 9* BTDC. On flat ground with the cruise set at 65mph my EGT's are in the 500's. Bumping up to 70mph puts me in the 575-675* range. That said, I have noticed that outside air temp can have a pretty good affect on temps. NA IDI's run on the high side as far as EGT's go. Just keep it below 1200* and you should be fine.

In theory, advancing the IP timing shouldn't make your EGT's go up.....it should do the opposite.

Let your EGT gauge be your guide when towing. If the temps start to get too high while pulling hills etc, let off or drop a gear. I haven't had any issues with mine towing in the 5K pound range.

Just don't expect to tow a lot at high speeds with a NA IDI. They are very reliable and can tow well, just not fast. I plan on cruising at 60-65mph whenever I have a trailer hooked up. With the year of yours I am assuming that you have an E4OD trans. If so, I would recommend you put a large cooler on it.....especially if you are towing. A trans temp gauge is also a great idea. The E4OD trans can do well, but isn't quite as stout in stock form as the c6........though you do have the added benefit of an overdrive and locking torque converter. If you are willing to drop your cruising speed you will see your MPG jump up quite a bit. A Canadian member here has an e250 with 3.54 gears and an E4OD. If he cruises as 55mph (which is the hwy speed limit where he is at) he has gotten in the low 20's fairly consistently. I consistently get high teens on hwy runs and summer fuel. Could do better, but I can't handle cruising at 55mph.

Welcome to the IDI Van Club.....an we need pics.

 

[derjackistweg]

I think those temps are a little hot but my experience with NA Ford IDIs is minimal (put the turbo on my '86 in '87 when it had 7K miles) but that would be hot for my turbo 6.9L. At 60 mph, mile is about 500 and not much more at my top speed (4.10s) of 70 mph (3000 rpm). But again, My only NA/pyro experience was on a 6.2L GM.

K&N: The K&N cotton gauze filter sacrifices efficiency for airflow. It lets a lot of fine dust thru that a paper or lofted fiber filter won't. A modern paper filter l is about 97-99 % efficient on the SAE fine test dust and nearly 100 % efficient on the coarse dust test. An average 2-ply cotton gauze filter is 92-96% on the fine dust test and 97-98% on the coarse. Which test do you think they advertise? It might not be too much of a long term issue if you live in a clean air area but remember... the air intake is the primary source of contamination and wear producing particles into the engine. Want your engine to last a long time? Want your oil to stay in service longer? Make sure you run the most efficient air filtration system you can.

Read this article and make sure you read who wrote it. http://www.trailerlife.com/rv-trailer-news/the-truth-about-engine-air-filtration/

Interesting. Though there are some additional points.
Clean air:
I once read a study regarding that on public busses. in a nutshell: from the higher the air is sucked the cleaner it is.
cold air:
air density is an important thing. the colder the more efficient for the engine + it lowers the EGTs! on my IDI I've the metal cleaner directly above the engine, where it gets hot. a simple isolation against the engine department heat (its a van) will be a benefit.

I personally will change the cleaner itself to a round one from k&n an will position it at the left or right fender (the batteries will be moved to the frame, which is gives room and lowers the center of weight). The fender will get a ventilation at that point, the tubing to the engine a 5mm isolation.