EBPV Removal

Dieselmaster

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Well I finally did it over the weekend...

We broke at the race and didn't have the parts to fix the truck, so Sunday I was left with nothing to do so after watching a few episodes of Horsepower TV I decided it was time for me to mess with my truck...

I started around 2pm...

First I pulled the right side intercooler tube to make it easier to get to everything.. For those not used to working on motors the right side is the passenger side... In doing this I found my next mod is going to be the vent line

Then I had to pull my boost releif valve apart and move it out of my way also... alot of people won't have this and it may not be a factor but mine was in the way... While I was there I discovered that my HX line was leaking at the connections so I tightened them down, then realized I needed the line out of my way to get to one of the bolts on the EBPV...

Next I loosened the clamp for the down pipe and pushed it away from the EBPV... I left the DP in place and just worked around it... I really don't know if it would be faster to try and pull it.. It was a pain to work around, but would have been worse to pull...

Then I started breaking loose all the EBPV bolts... they are a 12 point 5/16... For all but two of the little buggers you can use a ratchet and socket... but two of them require a box end wrench... and neither of the two that require the wrench are in a easy place to get to ... There are a total of 7 of them all together and the two that require the wrench are at the base of the EBPV.. The one on the back side is totally done by brail.. you cannot see it all and infact its pretty hard to even feel it... I had to lay on my stomach and get most of my arm up under the lip of the motor hood to get enough arm movement to get to it.

Once I got all the bolts popped I was able to remove them with my fingers... I forgot to mention that I did this with the truck having not run since overnight.. I didn't use any penetrating oil at all... but I do live in the desert so rust is not an issue here.

Once the bolts were out I was able to rotate the valve around enough to get at the lever on the bottom of it.. there is a small retaining clip that holds it on.. I used a pair of dikes to grab it and twist it loose... Once the clip was off, the actuating arm just fell off and I was able to pull the EBPV out..

I took some pictures of it out of the truck.. but I will post those later because they are on the camera at home...

I used a Rotary tool with a grinding bit to remove the tops of the rivets then a hammer and punch to push the rivets through the shaft holding them. I had a 20mm plug ready to go in but it was just a hair to big.. a 19mm would have worked and an 18 was to small... I wound up having to run down to the Auto parts store to get a different size and wound up with a 3/4"..

On the EBPV there is a cap on one side and then the hole left by the shaft on the other... I figured that the cap that was in place had been working this long then it should continue working.. so I only capped the other side... There is a bushing of sorts left over that I knocked out then drove the plug into place... it was a nice tight fit and I used to retaining clip just to be safe.

Once all that was done I cleaned everything up and put it back together.... It seemed to go back together much easier than coming apart... which was nice... The hardest part of the whole job when going back together was the downpipe... I had the boy under the truck puching up and wouldn't you know... he smashed my fingers 3 times between the DP and the tranny dip stick... My pinky finger is several colors of blue right now...

So far in the limited amount of driving I have done I can say I do notice a difference... the big test in going to be pulling a load... but even in town I notice that when I jump on it I can no longer get into the 1,200-1,300 area... I will try getting on the hiway where I can stay in the throttle longer... It also cools down much quicker... Another thing it seems to do is allow it to cool even more than what I used to get.. Before when I coasted downhill on a cool morning I would cool off to 200-250... and then it would stay there... This morning I watched it drop all the way down to 150... and it was only 48 outside...

Like I said .. I will watch it and report back when I have more/better data...
 

Mike

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Good info DM, this has all the makings of a DIY/Tech article dontcha think? Didnt happen to take any pics as you went along did you?
 

Dieselmaster

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Well I finally got to pull something since gutting the EBPV..

Nothing major just a 20' tt with a tip out.. but pulling it before with the chip set at 100hp it would heat up right away and I would have to turn it down to the 80 hp setting...

When I say heat up right away I mean pulling onto the highway I would hit 1300+ without even trying...

Now I can leave it in the 100hp setting and still be heavy footed and it won't hardly go over 1200... And once I am up to speed and cruising it stays between 800-900...

I can without a doubt say that the gutting made a huge difference in pulling temps... Around town it doesn't seem to do as much... except on the very top end... when jumping on an onramp and getting up to speed real quick like, it doesn't go up in temps as quickly as it used to do... and it no longer jumps into the 1300's like it used to do. Infact its hard to hit 1200 empty now.

So for anyone who lives in an area that doesn't see real cold temps and your wanting your truck to run a little cooler, I highly recommend gutting the EBPV.
 

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