E40D kicking out of OD first 15 miles

[Titojeep]

So while the topic of the E40D has been discussed numerous times with great feedback, I have a little bit of a different issue that I can't seem to find any info on. My tranny is kicking out of OD only during the first 15 miles or so of travel regardless of speed. I've seen several post about checking for shorts, TPS, brake wiring, etc., but my specific issue makes me wonder about the temperature as the variable. I know that by design the tranny won't shift into OD on cold days until it reaches a certain temperature, however we're currently not experiencing cold weather here in Georgia and generally speaking I usually crank up the truck until the high idle kicks down before driving since I normally only drive my truck on occasions. Here are the specifics that I've noticed: 1. Truck is warm before driving (temperature needle at the "O" of normal they way is usually is). 2. outside temperature has been between 70 and 80 when I've experienced the issue. 3. After reaching speed for OD, occasionally over the last 7 or 8 times of driving it kicked out of OD at random about 5 times. RPM jumped to 3000 + then back to normal (2000 & 65mph) quickly during the first 10 to 15 miles. 4. Today when it kicked out, I pressed the OD off button and no change, it stayed at over 3000 rpm for a few seconds before I let off the throttle and slowed down. I returned the button to normal state and the tranny went back to normal. 5. I reached my destination, came to the truck 30 minutes later, cranked up and came home with no issue with speeds varying between 40 and highway speed. I'll certainly be checking all of the things noted on previous post however given that my problem is primarily happening during the first hand full of miles, I'm curious what feedback anyone may have regarding how the temperature circuit works for these tranny's and what I need to inspect. Is there a separate temp sensor for the tranny fluid? Is it just taking feedback from the engine temp sensor? Since I'm not getting a light flash on the OD light, is there something mechanical that I need to check that would only be affected by the first 10 to 15miles of travel? Since it's happened at different speeds, do I still trouble shoot the TPS for deadspot, especially since it's only during the first 10 to 15 miles?
I'm looking forward to any and all feedback. And as always, thanks to all of you and this website for the great IDI community.
Hear are a couple of other facts.
No recent work to motor or tranny.
Tranny only has 77,000 since the rebuild.
Was not towing when the issue occurred.
Again: only happening during first 10 to 15 miles occasionally.
Fluid is full, and no burnt smell or dark color.
Thanks

 

[79jasper]

I would start by checking the brake switch. Make sure all tail lights are working. Including the high mount light.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[trackspeeder]

Actually the tranny will shift all gears when cold. It wont lock the converter until operating temp is reached.

There could be an issue with solenoid S2. Scan it for codes

 

[icanfixall]

I had an issue with my od jumping out after about 1 hour of driving. Three different dealerships took a shot at fixing it. One said the trans was shot without even driving it. So I went to another dealer. They took a little over 100 bucks and 2 days to install a new tps... I did not know how to do that job way back then. Still had issues. Went to another dealer and they replaced the cpu brain... About 600 bucks spend there. So I purchased a rebuilt Jaspers E4OD and paid 300 bucks to have it installed.. Problem fixed for about 6 months. Well finally a member of another forum said I had a corrosion issue on a electrical plug to the trans. On my 89 we have 7 or 8 plugs. Opened them all. cleaned with contact cleaner that is harmess to plasric. Greased with die electric grease.. Problem fixed for less than 20 bucks.... WHT was with the ford dealers. So it was 1800 plus 300 for the trans. A hundred for the switch and another 600 for the cpu. You bet I wrote Ford Motor Company bout this.. My response was they "WOULD" have refunded me my money had I just kept taking it back to the same f u dealer... So I lost ALL respect for ANY Ford dealer. Finding 3 different dealers that can't find or fix an easy problem is horrible business. BTW 2 of the 3 dealers are long gone and they had been in business for 45 plus years..... When I open an electrical plug it gets spray cleaned. Dried and greased. I don't like expensive electrical issues.

 

[Titojeep]

Been tied up at work, but had a chance to check for damaged wires on side of tranny. All looked good. Drove truck around as well and no issue. I'm leaning towards some electrical issue as you all have suggested. I'll keep digging this weekend.

 

[OLDBULL8]

As trackspeeder said, it's not kicking out of OD, it's kicking out of lockup.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

E40D: The Importance Of A Clean Trans Harness. Code 62 & More

also i forgot to mention there in that thread,but while cleaning the pack,then follow the harness along to the drivers side.look up along the frame and up near the power distribution box (for 92-94 trucks) and you'll see another clip too.insure to unclip,clean and grease this as well.
then while your at it,go ahead and clean all the sensor plugs and the main teca connector if you haven't in the last 5 years.it's good preventive maintenance.a little grease helps keep corrosion away.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

As trackspeeder said, it's not kicking out of OD, it's kicking out of lockup.

im not too sure about that one Bill.that was my speculation before i opened the thread but then reading the rpms jumped approx 1k rpm on him,that does sound more like dropping a gear rather than just lock up then he also states od cancel also does nothing at this point in time either where had it been an unclocked converter,she should still kick down to 3rd.sounds like it already was.

 

[Titojeep]

Update. So it's 77 degrees here in Atlanta. Just drove the truck 5 miles and no issues. I did hit the over drive off button at 50 mph and I do have to clarify that this simulated my issue exactly. In other words pressing on the brake only made the rpm go up a little. Turning off the od made it jump up alot I.e 1000 plus rpm. So just to make sure I state my problem more effectively my truck randomly has jumped up in rpm / gone down a gear as if the overdrive off button was activated. But only during first 10 or 15 miles and randomly. I'm hoping nothing major or serious but I'm a little lost on what to trouble shoot. I do plan on having the trans checked for a code but not sure if that will show anything since I haven't had the light flash on my od button. I'll keep digging and update the post. I really appreciate. The feedback this far.

 

[trackspeeder]

I would scan the tranny anyways. The TCM is pretty stupid on these trucks. Sometimes you will get something, most times nothing. Check anyways.

Pressing the brake peddle released the converter clutch. Low RPM change.
Pressing the OD OFF button drop to third while releasing and reapplying the converter clutch. High RPM change.

Check the TPS is you haven't already done this.

 

[icanfixall]

Any chance you have a rear tail light burned out?? If the brake light filament touches the turn light filament in the bulb you will get an unlock and lock up every time the blinkers work on that side where the bulb is burned out. I found this after my first rebuild. Every time I wanted to use the left blinker the trans would unlock and lock up. Difficult to figure out but simple to fix.

 

[mccall52]

Do make sure the wires leading to the overdrive cancel switch aren't chafed or otherwise damaged at the base of the shift lever.

 

[Greg5OH]

I had this issue on my truck. Within 15 mins it was good when driven cold, would engage lockup, coudl cancel and reengage it with the OD switch. After that no lock up, also would not downshift sometimes when merging onto the freeway when hot, do you have this?

Mine was an issue with the trans pump, cracked housing or there was another issue with needle and spring area, not sure exactly what, but basicaly as the trans heated up, the clearances got larger and the total line pressure dropped. SO the pump was bleeding off pressur,e nto allowing the lockup circuit to engage, adn not allowing the lower gear bands to clamp down.

 

[Titojeep]

Update: I checked all my lights and blinkers. All working fine. Checked wiring harness. No sign of wires pulled, chaffed, or damaged. Have driven the truck 5 more times since my last post and it shifts fine. Boy, this one is a pain the A** to figure out. I'll keep looking.

 

[Greg5OH]

Put an inline pressure gauge on the trans so you can read it in cab. Should tell you alot