E-pump cause hard start?

[Blsford]

I have a E-pump hooked up, but when I hit the GP switch my voltmeter dumps hard. I have 2 new (reman) optima red tops, new cables, new starter as of today. Never had this issue without the e pump. Makes it so if it doesn't start within first few spins then the batteries sound weak and the pump sounds like its cutting in and out. It's been 20* here and today left me stranded (old starter).

Alternator reads 14.2 at idle (no accessories)
Batteries 12.4

Thoughts? I want to put the pump on a switch. So it off when cranking.

 

[smokin150]

I'd can the red tops or get them load checked for a bad cell or get some good quality batteries. As is now for me I'm only running on one group31 size battery. Your GPs are gonna pull quite a few amps(in excess of 150) until the controller kicks out, if ya have a bad ground, bad cell, bad connection it will run the batteries down fast... also if you don't have enough reserve/cca in the battery you will run into the same issue

 

[Ataylor]

Have the batteries load tested. Fully charged they should be 12.6 v or higher, but maybe less at those temps. I don't think the electric lift pump would cause the problem unless it is not putting out enough pressure. How long has the pump been installed? Is this something that started right after the pump was installed?

When it stranded you, did the batteries wear down and start cranking slow? All cable connections are clean and tight? Sounds like maybe the batteries are failing when cranking, then get so low that the e-pump starts to cut out because of low voltage.

Sorry for so many questions instead of answers, but these are just things that popped into mind.

Archie

Archie

 

[Blsford]

Had the same issue with the batteries I had before the optimas. And those batteries were just fine before that epump...that's why I'm so confused

 

[smokin150]

Had the same issue with the batteries I had before the optimas. And those batteries were just fine before that epump...that's why I'm so confused

Check amp draw on the pump... motor might be going bad pulling to many amps, or remaning on, check key off engine off amp load on truck as well to make sure nothing is sticking on

 

[Blsford]

Pump has been on for around 2 months, it's the facet dura lift and is pretty noisy with power on with engine off.. I might pop the fuse out and see how it cranks with that off then put it back on as it starts. Not sure how to check amp draw

 

[smokin150]

. Not sure how to check amp draw

Checking for amp draw is rather simple, you will need a digital volt meter, one that I capable of reading DC amps to 10a or better. You disconnect the negitive side of whatever your checking, be it the pump or truck then connect the meter between the source (ie the battery) and device (ie ground cable/truck ground). Just make sure your meter is set right or you will blow its safety

 

[79jasper]

Also a good question would be, where is your power source for the electric pump?

 

[RLDSL]

THose batteries are crap and are not intended for cranking big diesels. The red tops( on the rare occasion that they function any more) boast high crancing amps, but that is not what gets a big diesel kicked over on a cold morning, it's the reserve capacity that gets you all that extra key grinding time on a good set of truck batts, and the red tops are pitiful If you just HAD to own optimas, you would need the yellow tops ( or even the blues ) but personally I think they are a huge waste of money anymore since they sold out and quit making them from new material, they simply dont put out or last like they used to. You are far better off with a pair of group 31s stud tops and you can get those ANYWHERE for under $100 ea and have around 1150 ca with over twice teh reserve capacity of a red top That there is your difference between running out of steem while cranking and firing up.

 

[lindstromjd]

My 6.2 ate 4 different Red Tops (good thing they were all under warranty!!). That's when I figured out that they're not made to the same standards that they once were, and are basically junk now. Went to group 31's and haven't had a problem since then.

 

[Blsford]

Only reason I went with the optimas is because a buddy's friend works with them. Got me a deal for 70$ each...both my batteries are on drivers side, will the group 31s fit there?

Edit: 21* out and with epump fuse out seemed to fire right up.

 

[icanfixall]

A big rig group 31 will have around 1000 + amps. So 2 of them will be more than 2000 amps of cranking power with probably twice the cold cranking amps. I will be changing my batteries to the 31 style next time I need batteries. they are cheaper. they are much better for our trucks and they can be found at any truck stop all over the country.

 

[bike-maker]

FWIW, my in dash volt meter shows about the same results. Glow plugs knock the voltage down about 2 volts. My E-pump is on a switch, and it doesn't seem to crank any different with the pump on or off. I'm also running the big rig group 31's.

 

[madpogue]

Um, cold cranking amps are always LOWER than cranking amps. Group 31 batteries usually have about 950 CCA, which is more, but not much more, than the 850 that most group 65 batteries are rated for. So with the two batteries, you'll get usu. 200 more CCA out of the 31s; nowhere near twice. And since they're used for commercial purposes, they usually carry a much shorter warranty. Granted, it's the same chemistry and they'll probably last just as long (if not longer) as the 65s, but if they don't, you won't have the warranty behind you. OTOH, I've heard Optima's quality has really gone down the tubes lately, and if they're some generic group size, they're probably not 850 CCA anyway.

Odd; I've never seen 31s cheaper than 65s, for the same grade and chemistry of battery.

Besides, what you're experiencing, throwing more power at it is like putting a higher capacity fuse in when it blows; it masks the symptoms but doesn't address the root cause. A pump like that should draw no more than a few amperes (their site says an avg. of 1.4A). It'd be like leaving your parking lights on when you crank it. In fact, why not try that as a test - pump fuse out, parking lights on, run the GPs and then crank it. If that strains the batteries just like the pump does, then those Optimas are cr@pped out.