dumb SMF clutch question

[pt_Ranger_v8]

Almost ready to do my swap (staring on Sunday!!!), and I'm trying to track down my last few parts.

I know I have a SMF/clutch, and I'd like to replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing while I have everything apart. What do Ineed for a throwout bearing? Is this something that I need to special order? What about the pilot bearing?


Thanks for all your help guys!

 

[dsltech83]

Just order those parts for your particular application from your parts supplier of choice.

 

[fastass350]

Most auto parts stores should stock them. Make sure the pilot bearing is the needle bearing style not just the bronze insert. A little grease on that bearing will do nicely too.

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

So, I just tell them it's for a single mass flywheel, or just that it's a ZF-5?

Thanks for the answers guys!

 

[DragRag]

No need to tell them, all the same. Give them year, make, model and go unless the trans was a swap and not stock.

 

[RLDSL]

For teh pilot bearing . forget about the needle bearing, ans spend the extra bucks and get the Kevlar pilot bushing. The things last forevor and dont require lubrication so they don't seize up when the grease dries out , so when teh grease dries out your clutch doesn start dragging like a needle bearing does. Well worth the extra money by a long shot.
Don't get the throwout bearing until you have the old one out. They are sold to match the clutch kit, not the application. Throwout bearings are made in different lengths and with different face shapes depending on the types of the pressure plate fingers and the angle of the fingers, a plate built with flat fingers will be matched with a rounded TO bearing and a plate with angled pressureplate fingers will have a flat TO bearing. Then the distance from the mounting ears to the bearing face, there's really no way to know until you get the thing out. If you can't get an exact match, then you'll end up needing an adjustable clutch rod from Napa for about 8 bucks

I can't tell if you are replacing the clutch right now or just teh TO bearing and pilot, but if doing the whole shebang, you would do real well to go to Ft wayne Clutch and order up one of their rebuilt Kevlar clutch kits for that thing . It will last for an insanely long time even pulling rediculous loads and still has a light pedal on the left knee the setup just can't be beat

 

[hesutton]

X 2 on the Kevlar pilot bushing. Again, not sure if you are replacing the whole clutch or not. If you are, you should remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced at a good machine shop, tranny shop. Otherwise, you'll have hills and valleys in the flywheel that will hurt the new cluch's performance and survice life. They can remove the old pilot bearing/bushing and press in the new one at the same time they resurface the flywheel.

Heath

 

[pt_Ranger_v8]

Sorry I didn't clarify that in the original post. Working 12's involuntarily had me slightly steamed yesterday.

The clutch/flywheel are damn near brand new. However, the TO bearing looks sketchy, and I would rather replace the 'cheap' wear items while I have everything apart. Supposedly, the truck wouldn't shift after 20-30 minutes of being driven, but I couldn't verify that before I pulled everything out for the swap. My plan was to get it swapped, then troubleshoot the clutch. I'm ASSuming it's something wrong with the slave cylinder, or the way the clutch line was routed (almost on top of the exhaust manifolds).