Dana 60 going in...eventually

david85

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Bike-Maker's thread is top notch stuff, and I seriously considered using SD axles. The heavier setup, better brakes and access to SD series rims (prime used parts these days) where all very tempting. The rear axle would of course have to be swapped to match.

But in the end, I scored an entire parts truck for under $700 CAD, which is about as cheap as these axles come in my neck in the woods. Wreckers still want almost twice that just for D60 front axle. And yes, I too heard aware of that 3.31 dana60 axle ratio, although I've never seen one in the flesh.

The front frame mod is the biggest hurdle of the job and I'm not looking forward to ripping that section out of the donor truck, let alone getting it into mine. But now that I'm this deep, I'll probably follow through with it.

As for spring rates, I seem to get as many different answers as I can find sources. So far I've seen: 2200, 2600, 3000 and now 3400 for the flat springs intended for D60 solid axle front ends. I read on one thread here at OBN that 2600 was too soft, so maybe go with middle of the road 3000lbs?:dunno
 

junk

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I put 99-04 super duty springs in the front of my 89 crewcab. I had to lengthen the front of the frame to handle their extra length. I used the 99-2004 mounts in the front and back. To use the back ones you have to trim off part of the cab mount. Overall not a bad swap. I think it was a good change.

I wanted a reverse shackle with no extra lift. My truck ended up at basically factory height.
 

u2slow

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Don't forget to get the yoke off the front of the transfer case for the double cardan driveshaft. But make sure the xfer case was not a 4407, I can't remember the year it was switched from 1356 to 4407. Your sig says you've already got a 1356 installed so maybe it was from a F350 with the correct yoke on it already?

Using diesel TTB front springs on your truck will increase the height over the diesel D60 springs and give a harsher ride.

The std F250 shaft (single cardan) works fine after shortening. BTDT.

You might be right about new TTB leafs with a monobeam... tired ones; nope - BTDT too.
 

Garbage_Mechan

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I put 99-04 super duty springs in the front of my 89 crewcab. I had to lengthen the front of the frame to handle their extra length. I used the 99-2004 mounts in the front and back. To use the back ones you have to trim off part of the cab mount. Overall not a bad swap. I think it was a good change.

I wanted a reverse shackle with no extra lift. My truck ended up at basically factory height.
I have studied this idea very closely but found a frame width difference on the area of the rear shackle mount. How did you compensate for this and wind up at the right spring spacing at the axle? 99-04 front springs are not parallel to each other. Could you post some pics? Very interested in this.
 

junk

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If you click the flickr link in my signature it should have pictures showing the front end mounts.

The springs aren't parallel. They are wider in the front. From what I read this actually helps the truck track better VS perfectly parallel springs. Something about keeping them preloaded. they aren't neutral and thus have to load up when turning. It drives good even when pulling 14K.
 

david85

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Teardown of the axle is almost complete. So far the axle needs:

1. New balljoints all around (so glad I bought that OTC ball joint press a while back! - USA made forged steel!)
2. 1 U-joint (will change both)
3. New drag link (again, shot ball joint)
4. Hub/Axle seals didn't seem to leak but one was torn. I'll replace both.
5. Dust shields for the disks are "ok" but would like to find new ones if I can. It's proving harder than I thought.

Brake pads are fresh. Rotors look good, other than the flash rust from lack of use.

I haven't opened the diff cover yet, but the oil spilling out the axle tube looked clean and clear.

Anyone have a preference for U-joint and ball joint brands? I often get Moog at the local parts shop but I'm thinking of bulk ordering from Rockauto this time.

Moog, Motorcraft, AC Delco or Spicer only? I'm not planning anything hardcore, but I would like to be able to use the 4wd for many years to come. Also wondering if I should opt for ball joints that have grease points on them or not.

I'm surprised at how many low cost choices there are now. Never heard of half the brands that are listed there but I suspect they are all offshore.
 

u2slow

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Most of the big brands are offshore too.

With Rockauto, I start with cheap and greasable. If there's problems, I move up the price range next time.
 

79jasper

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Personally, I like DANA/SPICER.
On cheap brands, I've had greasable and sealed units fail shortly. Ujoints and balljoints aren't something I like to mess with often, so I tend to at least start out at the upper price range parts.
While you're at it, look into the "upgraded" axle seals.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

david85

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I shouldn't be surprised, but I am. There's a lot of parts on one of these axles, but they're finally all loose now. Even the frame parts are off the donor truck. They'll need some prep work, but for now it's all on the shelf.

I decided to paint the center section of the axle before any major teardown to avoid having to degrease again later. Now that the rest is stripped, I can finish cleaning and paint the knuckles as time permits.


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chillman88

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Personally, I like DANA/SPICER.
On cheap brands, I've had greasable and sealed units fail shortly. Ujoints and balljoints aren't something I like to mess with often, so I tend to at least start out at the upper price range parts.

I definitely agree. The driveshaft u-joints I'm okay scrimping on because they're easy to get to. Those axle shaft u-joints.... I wouldn't want to replace again!
 

79jasper

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