Damage from weak starter?

[The Warden]

Hello!

Quick (and dumb) question...

I'm sure that a weak starter will put a strain on the electrical system, but other than wearing down the batteries and heating up the cables, what exactly can happen?

Also, (I can't imagine this being the case, but better safe than sorry), can a weak starter do any other damage?

My starter's been spinning slowly for quite a while now...I've been starting my truck with ether for almost a year now (glow plugs died, and I haven't had time to put in the 7.3l system), and I've been erring towards using too little ether, meaning that the starter has to work to get the truck started. The starter hasn't liked the abuse, so she's cranking slower now (at least she's cranking consistently; I don't expect the starter to die out altogether). I'm finally looking at doing the glow plugs, so I'm wanting to get the starter replaced as well (thank goodness for Pep Boys' lifetime warranty )...but I have other things to do as well, so I'm trying to figure out high up in the list of priorities the starter should be at. I will load-test them, but I'm pretty sure the 4 year old batteries have about had it as well (just based on age), and I imagine I should do the batteries either before or at the same time as the starter...

Thanks!

 

[wwwabbit]

Other then if it was not engaging correcly and grinding teeth, I can't think of any damage. I would be more worried about problems with ether then with a slow starter.

 

[headmark]

Ether = damage over time. I'd never use ether until I found it absolutely needed (stuck out in the middle of BFE). I'll use it at work or on OPE's if it's needed to assist in starting but not on my own engines except for a last resort. The IDI is a tough engine and with a proper ignition system you shouldn't have any problems starting these engines. I'd start with load testing the batteries, doing a starter AMP draw test and replace the worn parts. Make sure to replace all the glow pugs at once with Beru's and that the g/p controller is working. Ether is going to get it started but will cause the pistons to hit hard braking the rings over time.

Pete

 

[The Warden]

The IDI is a tough engine and with a proper ignition system you shouldn't have any problems starting these engines...Make sure to replace all the glow pugs at once with Beru's and that the g/p controller is working. Ether is going to get it started but will cause the pistons to hit hard braking the rings over time.

Trust me, I know this. I had a factory 6.9l glow plug controller on my truck when I first got her, and the controller died after about 2 years (bimetallic spring stuck; common problem). I then decided to go with a push-button...that worked well for about a year and a half, then after two failed sets of plugs, I decided to upgrade to the 7.3l system including the bullet-connector plugs. I bought the parts about a year ago, then the autolite hit the fan with schoolwork and I've been busy almost constantly ever since. I figured that I don't use my truck all that often, and I believe that ether can be safe (although not a good idea if viable alternatives exist) if the glow plugs are disabled and you use it VERY sparingly. Believe me, I hate doing this to my engine, but I literally have not had time to build a wiring harness, install the 7.3l controller, and install the 8 new Beru plugs that have been sitting on my desk for a year now. I'm actually looking at the controller as I type this, and plan on installing the glow plugs tomorrow if I can find fuse holders and slow-blow fuses (I'm running an individual wire to each plug, and I'd just as soon avoid fusible links if possible...although it may come down to that).

Besides, I was under the impression that ether was primarily dangerous if you had working glow plugs (i.e. the ether coming into contact with a plug)...also note that I've been deliberately spraying the ether into the air box BEFORE the air filter, so the engine doesn't get too strong of a dose. I've also been using the truck as little as possible, to the point where sometimes I won't spray enough and have to spray a tiny bit more in. I've been using little enough that the engine doesn't knock at all when first started...maybe 1/8 second spray?

I am usually one who advises people against using ether in a diesel, so I know what point you're trying to make, and I sympathize. But, sometimes you have to do what you have to do, and I do intend to remedy this...if not tomorrow, certainly within the next few weeks. I have to drive the truck to L.A. sometime next month, and the plugs WILL be working by then.

Thank you for your concern, though Now, back to the question at hand...

BTW, the starter is engaging correctly...I had a problem with worn flywheel teeth, but I replaced the T-19 with a ZF DMFW last summer...no problems since

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

I am usually one who advises people against using ether in a diesel, so I know what point you're trying to make, and I sympathize. But, sometimes you have to do what you have to do, and I do

Now there is the definition of Hipocracy!

 

[geonc]

Tim,
Low voltage and high amp draw will fry the armature.

Low cranking speed, as you are experiencing will lead to the obvious death.

Low voltage will in some cases actually cause the starter to stay engaged...with the resulting f/w damage.
Many will simply hammer the starter case to disengage only to destroy[fracture] the magnets in the housing.

 

[Meta6981]

I had a similar problem in my benz where the starter would still be turning after i had stopped the key from moving. Problem was weak power, so new battery and new alternator went into my benz and i have not had a problem with starting since. Tim, let me know if you need some help with that controller I get off work tomorrow at three.