jonathan
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does the filter need to have a bypass?
coolant filter install question
- Thread starter jonathan
- Start date
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
The napa kit is designed to be a bypass filter, yes.
Yup, coolant filters are designed to be bypass filters. Trust me, they work. You should cut one open after it's been on the the truck for 10 to 15K. It will surprise you for sure.
Heath
Heath
jonathan
Full Access Member
thats what i needed to know. thanks guys
jonathan
Full Access Member
one more question do i have to use a tee on the inlet or the outlet side or both?
KISS: Keep It Stupid Simple
the heater core line(s) is a bypass from the main cooling system.
this loop serves just one purpose; providing heat to the cab via the heater core (mini radiator if you will)
also provides quicker heat to the trans section of the radiator for those with auto trans,but you will be joining after this section,so that remains unaltered anyway,bringing you back to simply joined with the heater core bypass loop.
so imho,the work is already done for you with no extra plumbing necessary.here is my simple, no fuss setup;
if i loose heat in the cab now,i know its past time for filter replacement.
some people like to bypass,the bypass loop to the heater core for their filters.
well,whatever makes ya happy i guess.but i see no benefit at all in doing so.
this line is not a "cooling" line.it's just a line...well,think of it as your "heater" line,cus thats all it is.
plug it right off,and your engine isn't going to run any cooler or warmer.that's where some people go wrong in their understanding and think they need to bypass this loop.it isn't the case.
also some like the valves so they don't need to make a mess when changing filters.
is it "that" hard to catch a gallon of coolant into a jug first,if by some chance,your not flushing the system at the same time your changing the filter anyway,so you can avoid the engine bay mess meanwhile? ......i sure didn't think so.
the heater core line(s) is a bypass from the main cooling system.
this loop serves just one purpose; providing heat to the cab via the heater core (mini radiator if you will)
also provides quicker heat to the trans section of the radiator for those with auto trans,but you will be joining after this section,so that remains unaltered anyway,bringing you back to simply joined with the heater core bypass loop.
so imho,the work is already done for you with no extra plumbing necessary.here is my simple, no fuss setup;
if i loose heat in the cab now,i know its past time for filter replacement.
some people like to bypass,the bypass loop to the heater core for their filters.
well,whatever makes ya happy i guess.but i see no benefit at all in doing so.
this line is not a "cooling" line.it's just a line...well,think of it as your "heater" line,cus thats all it is.
plug it right off,and your engine isn't going to run any cooler or warmer.that's where some people go wrong in their understanding and think they need to bypass this loop.it isn't the case.
also some like the valves so they don't need to make a mess when changing filters.
is it "that" hard to catch a gallon of coolant into a jug first,if by some chance,your not flushing the system at the same time your changing the filter anyway,so you can avoid the engine bay mess meanwhile? ......i sure didn't think so.
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on another note;
iv had just one breakdown with this truck.
it was a bad batch of fuel last winter with lots of water.
the water froze (stock heater element not working.not much of a surprise there.)
i was thinking of adding a universal heater blanket they make just for filters.example:
http://www.padheaters.com/fh50.html
but now with this coolant filter installed.im thinking of just building a little enclosure to combine both filters.the heat given off the coolant filter is pretty substantial.likely just the ticket for keeping my fuel filter nice and toasty and thawed out when the temps drop.
anyway,thought id share my idea.good bad,or indifferent.
p.s.
anyone else who happens to be new to diesels and reading this sometime;
keep a bottle of red diesel clean called "911" behind the seat/toolbox.once i towed the truck home,i let that stuff flow through for just a few minutes with my electric fuel pump and bam,she thawed and was up and running in 5 mins! had i known,i would have just done that road side.
(luckily it was just a few miles from home anyway,so didn't matter much.still i was on my way to work.it took time to hitch a ride in the freaking cold.grab another truck.etc.etc.etc.but you may not get so lucky.)
iv had just one breakdown with this truck.
it was a bad batch of fuel last winter with lots of water.
the water froze (stock heater element not working.not much of a surprise there.)
i was thinking of adding a universal heater blanket they make just for filters.example:
http://www.padheaters.com/fh50.html
but now with this coolant filter installed.im thinking of just building a little enclosure to combine both filters.the heat given off the coolant filter is pretty substantial.likely just the ticket for keeping my fuel filter nice and toasty and thawed out when the temps drop.
anyway,thought id share my idea.good bad,or indifferent.
p.s.
anyone else who happens to be new to diesels and reading this sometime;
keep a bottle of red diesel clean called "911" behind the seat/toolbox.once i towed the truck home,i let that stuff flow through for just a few minutes with my electric fuel pump and bam,she thawed and was up and running in 5 mins! had i known,i would have just done that road side.
(luckily it was just a few miles from home anyway,so didn't matter much.still i was on my way to work.it took time to hitch a ride in the freaking cold.grab another truck.etc.etc.etc.but you may not get so lucky.)
Last edited:
BioFarmer93
OPEC Hater
the heater core line(s) is a bypass from the main cooling system.
this loop serves just one purpose; providing heat to the cab via the heater core (mini radiator if you will)
also provides quicker heat to the trans section of the radiator for those with auto trans,but you will be joining after this section,so that remains unaltered anyway,bringing you back to simply joined with the heater core bypass loop.
so imho,the work is already done for you with no extra plumbing necessary.here is my simple, no fuss setup;
if i loose heat in the cab now,i know its past time for filter replacement.
some people like to bypass,the bypass loop to the heater core for their filters.
well,whatever makes ya happy i guess.but i see no benefit at all in doing so.
this line is not a "cooling" line.it's just a line...well,think of it as your "heater" line,cus thats all it is.
plug it right off,and your engine isn't going to run any cooler or warmer.that's where some people go wrong in their understanding and think they need to bypass this loop.it isn't the case.
also some like the valves so they don't need to make a mess when changing filters.
is it "that" hard to catch a gallon of coolant into a jug first,if by some chance,your not flushing the system at the same time your changing the filter anyway,so you can avoid the engine bay mess meanwhile? ......i sure didn't think so.
! I'm "one of those people" my thought/worry being that in the winter the flow through the coolant filter would be slowed to such a point as to not provide sufficient BTU's to the cab heater, so I bypassed the bypass. Other than that it looks like we chose to mount our filters very similarly.Attachments
Brianedwardss
Registered User
This article will provide ya with everything you're looking for:
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/coolfilter1.html
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/coolfilter1.html
jonathan
Full Access Member
i have read that a few times but i wasnt sure if i read it right.
jonathan
Full Access Member
with a little luck i will have my coolant filter/ fuel filter set up done today. the reson i said fuel filter also is because i moved it so use cheap fuel filter (4.05) that fits the stock 7.3 fuel filter head
jonathan
Full Access Member
just found out the cheaper fuel filters dont work. the o rings dont meet the sealing surface on the the filter head good enough so it leaks like a *****more info on the cheap fuel filter plz!
. i didnt tell anyone about them yet because i wasnt sure if they would work.MIDNIGHT RIDER
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just found out the cheaper fuel filters dont work. the o rings dont meet the sealing surface on the the filter head good enough so it leaks like a *****
Forget using any Ford or I-H supplied filter-head.
Go to Walmart and in the BOAT STUFF section, right close to the floating seat-cushions, hanging on the rack is a WATER SEPARATING FUEL-FILTER HEAD, filter and all, for about fifteen bucks.
Cross-reference that filter at filterbarn.com and a whole gazillion varieties at poor-boy prices will come up.
Mount a see-thru GoldenRod sediment-bowl/filter AHEAD of it and your fuel will be clean and pure.
Another option is the generic NAPA filter-head, to which ALL types of standard filters will thread onto; fuel, water, coolant, hydraulic, oil, etc., etc.
To save money, one must forget using the industry-specific filter-heads.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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the heater core line(s) is a bypass from the main cooling system.
this loop serves just one purpose; providing heat to the cab via the heater core (mini radiator if you will)
also provides quicker heat to the trans section of the radiator for those with auto trans,but you will be joining after this section,so that remains unaltered anyway,bringing you back to simply joined with the heater core bypass loop.
so imho,the work is already done for you with no extra plumbing necessary.here is my simple, no fuss setup;
if i loose heat in the cab now,i know its past time for filter replacement.
some people like to bypass,the bypass loop to the heater core for their filters.
well,whatever makes ya happy i guess.but i see no benefit at all in doing so.
this line is not a "cooling" line.it's just a line...well,think of it as your "heater" line,cus thats all it is.
plug it right off,and your engine isn't going to run any cooler or warmer.that's where some people go wrong in their understanding and think they need to bypass this loop.it isn't the case.
also some like the valves so they don't need to make a mess when changing filters.
is it "that" hard to catch a gallon of coolant into a jug first,if by some chance,your not flushing the system at the same time your changing the filter anyway,so you can avoid the engine bay mess meanwhile? ......i sure didn't think so.
RIGHT YOU ARE
; but, if one uses a manual cut-off valve to prevent coolant cycling to the heater-core in summer, one MUST plumb in a VALVED summer-time "bypass" loop to keep the coolant flowing through the filter.My coolant filter/head is still laying on a shelf somewhere on this property in one of these many buildings; I need to get on that project.
