Coolant coming out the front of block 7.3

[bigred*]

Hey guys, so i was on here a little while ago cuz i couldnt get fuel out my fuel lines, had a bad ip, replaced it and in priming it it turns out my lift pump went out, which is why i was so confused cuz it checked out before i replaced the ip, well i got a new mechanical lift pump installed and im finally getting fuel, was priming all the air out of the system when i noticed a drip, that i thought was fuel from priming, but it kept coming after i stopped priming, thats when i realized it was coolant.. I had my passanger front tire off to replace the lift pump and i tried following the leak, i can see it dripping off the head gasket, but i have no idea how i could blow a head gasket without running the engine, im really hoping its coming from somewhere else and i cant see it, its off the front of the block on the passanger side, i read somewhere there might be a weep hole there that could be causing this? All i know is im a sick of problem after problem, ontop of that now the engine turns over super slow, and thats with 3 new batteries, a running car and a jump box all hooked up at once

 

[FoolhardyIDI]

There is a heater hose that comes off the cylinder head on the passenger side. That is where I would check first.

 

[bigred*]

Sweet i will be sure to check that, that would be great if it just a leaky hose

 

[FoolhardyIDI]

Here are two pics of the heater hose

 

[IDIoit]

ontop of that now the engine turns over super slow, and thats with 3 new batteries, a running car and a jump box all hooked up at once

i would check your cables first, if they checked out, replace the starter.

 

[icanfixall]

Sounds like the engine was cranked over too many times and now the starter is shot. As for the coolant leak that could be the thermostat housing. did you or anyone else replace the thermostat a while ago. Not much else it could be other than a head gasket failed. What coolant are you running and have you had this rig very long.

 

[bigred*]

Im thinking, and hoping the cables. For one when the starter goes out, dont they just go put and stop completly? Cuz im turning over, just like its starving for amps though, and my cables are shot, insulation broken off everywhere, exposed tarnished copper, im thinking when i unbolted the starter cable to get it out of the way to acess the lift pump that i may have broke some strands.
Ive only had the truck a couple weeks, i got it for a few hundred bucks cuz it had sat for several months, and im guessing didnt run to good before then, a small shot of ether and it started right up and ran for a few mins before it starved for fuel.. As far as thermostat and such, im unaware if its been changed or not, id assume to get a good look at it all im gonna need to take off at least the alternator, so ill try and jump on that tonight

 

[FoolhardyIDI]

If it turns out to be the starter. This is the one I got, and its nice.
Db Electrical Smt0018 Ford Truck 6.9 7.3 Diesel Starter For High Torque 85-94
Got it off Amazon for $85

Also got a new battery cable from them too.
Standard Motor Products A116-00HP Battery Cable
Looks just like the original

 

[Ilovejunk]

Im thinking, and hoping the cables. For one when the starter goes out, dont they just go put and stop completly? Cuz im turning over, just like its starving for amps though,

not necessarily mine progressively got slower and slower when it died, i cleaned connections, replaced cables, and replaced the batteries before finally accepting that the starter was dying. i would change the cables out either way if they are as rough as you say they are.

if you do buy a starter get one like the one foolhardyIDI recommended, a good starter and batteries make these trucks soooo much easier to live with

just my .02

 

[bigred*]

So it turned out it wasnt my cables or my starter, it was my connectors, theyre pretty shot and wont really tighten down, so they got all corroded inside, cleaned out the contact put them back on and just squeezed them shut with some pliers.. So now that its turning over it started! But i have a new problem on cylinders 7 & 8 theyre not really getting fuel, cuz its squirting out the top of the injectors and making a huge mess, i couldnt see anything more on the coolant right now just cuz there was so much fuel everywhere, ill pop them off when i get done with school, i really hope i didnt cross thread anything and it just didnt seat right.. But idk, are these injectors pretty hard to replace? I think id rather replace those then the steel lines cuz to do the back two id have to pull the whole ip off again.. So i really hope those are still good.

 

[icanfixall]

Injectors are easy to replace. You do not have to remove the injection pump to replace lines either. Several ways to reach the bottom lines on the pump too. If you cross threaded the injector lines on the injectors you can remove them and clean up the threads. The nuts are harder material than the injectors. Keeping it clean prevents ruined injectors. Are both sides of the injector hard lines showing 2 clamps per side? If not you may have 2 broken hard lines.

 

[bigred*]

Update! So i got out there with sunlight today and could clearly see the back two were cross threaded, luckily i didnt tighten them down super hard, i was tired when i did this, so i popped them off, #8 cylinder i was able to out on straight and tighten down and it worked great, #7 however was a hassle, when i finally got it straight, was tightening it down when suddenly it got looser.. Great, tightened as tight as i felt was a good with out over doing it and started the truck.. Which took alot of cranking and finally some ether.. When it started it puffed a big grey cloud then the idle slowly came up, started holding idle good, but its blowing alot of bluish white smoke... Number 8 injector was working great, #7 not so much, it was bubblibg out the bottom with a tiny bit of fuel squirting out, looking closely at it i finally saw the nut on the hard line had cracked in three places around the base.. So i need a bew hard line there.. And if course it connects at the bottom of the ip
So my concerns are with the bluish smoke.. I would think that #7 maybe isnt getting enough fuel, so its not burning right, so that would only produce white smoke right? These pics dont really do it justice for how much smoke there was, revving it only made it billow out more.. Tried to drive it just to find out the clutch is gone too.. Lol, at least a cluth is fairly easy to fix
1st pic is idle, second pic was hard to get cuz i was alone trying to rev it and get the pic, when it firat gets revved it comes out alot thicker

 

[bigred*]

K new question on replacing that line, cuz the threads on the injector are good, the line itself is good, all thats bad is the nut on the end, so im thinking of two solutions, id really like to avoid pulling the ip again for fear of ruining another line plus the time.. Since the timing is controlled by the ip, it shouldnt matter how long that line is, so im thinking either i go to the junk yard and pull a line off something, dont know what though, or just get a braided steel line i could throw on there, or the ghetto option that i like the most, just getting another nut, cutting a slit in it so i can fit it over the line and then just welding the top of the nut shut. 3/4 of the thread should be plenty to hold it down tight, right? lol

 

[stealth13777]

The lines DO affect the timing. Those lines wind like that cause they are all the same length. Sparing the scientific explanation, you aren't even ok to slightly shorten one of those lines.


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[whitehorse]

Highjack....nice Cherokee in that pic...I've had 4 of them and love em...back to our regular programming...