cold starting your truck

[HankHill]

I love my truck, been 10 degrees in the morning these last few days, my truck starts in a quick second with one glow cycle and no block heater. Starts faster than my moms volvo xc90

people over exaggerate on how bad diesels are to start.

give them the general maintenance and it can be all good

 

[oilburners]

Ok - here's one for the experts. two trucks, a 93 and a 94idi turbo. The non-turbo has started almost instantly as low as -15f. The turbo starts hard and runs lumpy at any temp. Is the turbo to blame? 8 new glow plugs, new controller, new fuel filter, new batteries, new cables, new starter.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

Ok - here's one for the experts. two trucks, a 93 and a 94idi turbo. The non-turbo has started almost instantly as low as -15f. The turbo starts hard and runs lumpy at any temp. Is the turbo to blame? 8 new glow plugs, new controller, new fuel filter, new batteries, new cables, new starter.

Actually it could be a variety of things. First off its not the same motor, well technically you get what I'm saying so things like compression, timing, inkectors are different and that's what could cause it to be running different cold.

 

[Willie Two]

What do you guys run for " winter oil ". or does that not have any effect on your trucks ability to fire up on those colder winter mornings.

 

[Cincinnati Guy]

What do you guys run for " winter oil ". or does that not have any effect on your trucks ability to fire up on those colder winter mornings.

Well if your winter isnt to harsh you dont need to change to a thinner weight. Most run 15W40.

If you have bad/cold winters try to switch to a thinner weight oil, as it will put less strain on your motor when it starts on cold days, it will also make your motor turn over faster.

 

[gatorman21218]

I'd like to throw my 2 cents in. For a while now my truck would be hell bent on starting when it dropped below 50 degrees overnight. the only way to start was with the block heater. one weekend i didnt plug in and I burned up the starter. Damn thing got so hot it desoldered the battery cable. Well I got a new starter from db electrical, the highest torque one, and since then in 20 degree weather with no block heater it will start in under 5 seconds.

the most important thing in cold starting besides glow plugs imo is cranking speed. That new starter made all the difference for me. I just wish it wasnt made in china

 

[MidnightBlade]

my truck gives me the finger everytime i touch the key, i know i have two bad glow plugs and 2 or 3 that are on their way out. sounds cool when it does start though, kinda like big lope...running on 3 cyclinders can cause that i guess

 

[RLDSL]

What do you guys run for " winter oil ". or does that not have any effect on your trucks ability to fire up on those colder winter mornings.

If you run a quality synthetic, you can run the same oil year round and you will be able to spin it down to where you will need the block heater to get it to fire off. I run Amsoil 15w-40 and it pours down to -44deg f and by then you are going to need a block heater to get diesel to light off anyway, so that makes it a year round oil for all but the worst arctic conditions where oil in the pan gets cooled down too much going down the road and overnight conditions can reach -60 to -80 and and the like that one of the lighter synthetic diesel oils would be preferable, otherwise they are just more prone to burning off.

 

[oworm]

I use 10/30 semi synth Rotella in winter and 15/40 in summer. ( I may make the change to full synth 5/40 next spring) Just changed my GPs this fall. Lately its been around 7f so I'm cycling 10 secs on the GP's and she starts after about 10 seconds of cranking. I usually feather it for about 3 or 4 seconds and let it warm up for 5 or 10 minutes before driving.

 

[Willie Two]

Thanks guys, I've thought about making the switch to synthetic or a semi synthetic but I worry my truck internals won't like the change after 20 years of 15-40 real stuff.

 

[RLDSL]

Thanks guys, I've thought about making the switch to synthetic or a semi synthetic but I worry my truck internals won't like the change after 20 years of 15-40 real stuff.

It's due for a good cleaning with Auto Rx by now anyway. I can bet that your rings are dirty as heck and the lowered compression its causing isn't doing your cold starting any favours.

 

[82F100SWB]

I run 0W40 full synth in every engine I own, even my ATV, year round.
I'm not sure if the trend will continue with the new Mobil stuff I'm currently running compared to the old Esso product they seem to have discontinued, but, my 6.9 consumed much less oil with the synth than 15W40 dino.

 

[opusd2]

I ALWAYS run full synthetic in everything and it helps with everything from spinning easier and starting in cold, quicker oil pressure which is important in engine longevity, can handle longer intervals if you so choose (though I still keep a decent interval because oil is cheaper than and easier to change than an engine), and if there is a cooling issue will also handle the heat better. However it will find older gaskets to leak out of a lot easier and quicker, just something to think about.

If I plug my truck in, it starts easily into the 20s even with a couple of crappy GPs. But since I tried replacing those plugs and found the swollen heads wanted to separate from the threaded part and I now have two cylinders I need to repair for sure and am hoping to find a way to do it without taking the head off if I can since I was planning a larger truck project for next year which may include a complete rebuild.

Any ideas folks? I guess I should have just kept a can of ether in the truck just in case but it's too late now. Is it possible to block the precup's outlet somehow and knock the tip into it then use a magnet to drag it out the injector hole? Until I can do something to the engine, I won't run it any further than onto the gooseneck and borrow my brother's truck to pull it into a shed so I don't freeze my ball bearings off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, then I can go back to driving the favorite truck in my fleet. And then I can implement some heater options I have been working on.

 

[opusd2]

I ALWAYS run full synthetic in everything and it helps with everything from spinning easier and starting in cold, quicker oil pressure which is important in engine longevity, can handle longer intervals if you so choose (though I still keep a decent interval because oil is cheaper than and easier to change than an engine), and if there is a cooling issue will also handle the heat better. However it will find older gaskets to leak out of a lot easier and quicker, just something to think about.

If I plug my truck in, it starts easily into the 20s even with a couple of crappy GPs. But since I tried replacing those plugs and found the swollen heads wanted to separate from the threaded part and I now have two cylinders I need to repair for sure and am hoping to find a way to do it without taking the head off if I can since I was planning a larger truck project for next year which may include a complete rebuild.

Any ideas folks? I guess I should have just kept a can of ether in the truck just in case but it's too late now. Is it possible to block the precup's outlet somehow and knock the tip into it then use a magnet to drag it out the injector hole? Until I can do something to the engine, I won't run it any further than onto the gooseneck and borrow my brother's truck to pull it into a shed so I don't freeze my ball bearings off.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, then I can go back to driving the favorite truck in my fleet. And then I can implement some heater options I have been working on.

 

[KyleQ]

I have not had my truck long, but it starts like it does when it is 70*F outside when it is around 20*F. Now that it is around 0* or as cold as -5* I've got to crank on the truck with the pedal to the floor for over 20 seconds - I don't like it, but it works.

The glow plus come on for a few seconds on the first key turn, if I cycle it off and then back on the light stays on for a half second and turns off again. Is that correct? I know my starter takes a beating - but I'll deal with it when it goes, for now it continues to work.