benton
Country boy
im just going to buy a new clutch and and fly wheel for my truck and i was wondering where to get the set and what brand should i get and what type dual mass or single and about how much will it cost me? thanks
clutch brands types and prices???
- Thread starter benton
- Start date
Sorry, but that question is about like asking * I'm wanting to get married, should I get a blond or a redhead?* 
It all depends on what you plan on using the truck for. If you don't plan on towing and you do a lot of city driving, then you might want to consider a replacement DMF and stock clutch ( never put a stout clutch up against a DMF, only match stock clutch parts up to a DMF ) , but if you plan on towing heavy, then you might want to consider upgrading to a solid flywheel and going to a larger diameter clutch setup to take advantage of a clutch disk with more springs in it's center to eliminate rollover noise . A nice 12 1/4" solid setup will have little to no rollover noise . choosing a proper lining will make the difference from there in how it behaves.
I got a rebuilt 100% kevlar clutch from Ft Wayne Clutch that is simply wonderful. This one is a 12 1/4' solid flywheel setup with about 9 springs in the center hub. These are really nice clutches, this is the second one I've had, the first one, an 11", I had for a little over 50k miles when my DMF folded on me , but the clutch still measured out like new so it wwent to live on in another member's truck, then I got this solid flywheel setup and I've had this one about 75k miles so far and it works great. THey build these things where they have so much friction that they do not require a real heavily sprung pressure plate to hold , so they are very easy on the left knee, and my knees are completely shot. If it weren't for this clutch I would have had to put a slushbox in, and I hate the things, but with it I can keep my 5x4 tranny setup and I tow HEAVY on a regular basis.
Whatever you go with spend the extra $30-35 and get the Kevlar pilot bushing and ditch the pilot bearing so you don't have to worry about the needle bearings going dry and your input shaft going unsupported,
It all depends on what you plan on using the truck for. If you don't plan on towing and you do a lot of city driving, then you might want to consider a replacement DMF and stock clutch ( never put a stout clutch up against a DMF, only match stock clutch parts up to a DMF ) , but if you plan on towing heavy, then you might want to consider upgrading to a solid flywheel and going to a larger diameter clutch setup to take advantage of a clutch disk with more springs in it's center to eliminate rollover noise . A nice 12 1/4" solid setup will have little to no rollover noise . choosing a proper lining will make the difference from there in how it behaves.
I got a rebuilt 100% kevlar clutch from Ft Wayne Clutch that is simply wonderful. This one is a 12 1/4' solid flywheel setup with about 9 springs in the center hub. These are really nice clutches, this is the second one I've had, the first one, an 11", I had for a little over 50k miles when my DMF folded on me , but the clutch still measured out like new so it wwent to live on in another member's truck, then I got this solid flywheel setup and I've had this one about 75k miles so far and it works great. THey build these things where they have so much friction that they do not require a real heavily sprung pressure plate to hold , so they are very easy on the left knee, and my knees are completely shot. If it weren't for this clutch I would have had to put a slushbox in, and I hate the things, but with it I can keep my 5x4 tranny setup and I tow HEAVY on a regular basis.
Whatever you go with spend the extra $30-35 and get the Kevlar pilot bushing and ditch the pilot bearing so you don't have to worry about the needle bearings going dry and your input shaft going unsupported,
snaponprofile
Full Access Member
What I got was a LUK, It holds pretty well, I asked for them to throw in a kevlar pilot bushing too and they did.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F250-F...ies&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c628329f8#ht_832wt_1081
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F250-F...ies&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c628329f8#ht_832wt_1081
Simp5782
SNOW TACKLER!
You can get whatever clutch your pocket book and your foot wants u to have. It all depends on what your doing with it as well. The sky is the limit.. The flywheel is what is going to cost you a pretty penny if you go DM. Single mass isnt real cheap either. check car-part.com for a flywheel you might get lucky and pick up a used SM.
Laycook products in memphis builds any clutch for any application and pretty cheap. It all depends on what your doing with it though.
Laycook products in memphis builds any clutch for any application and pretty cheap. It all depends on what your doing with it though.
Diesel_brad
Dunce
Unless you are making big power SNAPONPROFILEs link would be your best bet
plywood
Recovered N/A
X2 on the link to Ft Wayne.
Better yet, just call up and talk to the ol' dude.
I got that clutch and added a Kevlar Pilot Bushing (THANKS RLDSL) as advised here, and it works great, no issues, only 5k miles or so I guess though. So much lighter on the knee.
If you have a bad knee though, I would go more expensive and get the Kevlar disc too. Mine is much nicer than stock, but still not bad knee light.
Better yet, just call up and talk to the ol' dude.
I got that clutch and added a Kevlar Pilot Bushing (THANKS RLDSL) as advised here, and it works great, no issues, only 5k miles or so I guess though. So much lighter on the knee.
If you have a bad knee though, I would go more expensive and get the Kevlar disc too. Mine is much nicer than stock, but still not bad knee light.
benton
Country boy
what do you consider big power? and the link snaponprofile posted seems like a good deal. what would you consider big power with a idi? im adding a turbo new injectors and injection pump also having my heads ported will that clutch hold up to those modifications ?
benton
Country boy
i doubt ill even come close to 200 lol
Diesel_brad
Dunce
If you are under 250hp(which you will be) then you will be just fine with the ebay one
That would be a good clutch, but instead of spending that on a new one, consider the route I went and go for a REBUILT , Kevlar lined clutch kit, that they rebuild in house. You get WAY more clutch for teh money. ( they call it their Hustler clutch) . That 100% Kevlar lining lasts 5-10times longer than standard linings without eating up your flywheel like ceramic/metallic based friction discs do, and I regularly pull heavy grossing 18-22k and more running in steep hills.
I'm not sure why everyone buys new clutches these days, but I think it must be marketing. 30 years ago EVERYONE used rebuilt clutches except for a few extreme circumstances for folks who were racing, then teh advertising took over and next thing you know there's only a handful of clutch rebuilders left and folks look at you funny for suggesting it, but Those folks at Ft wayne do teh best rebuilds I've ever seen , you won't be able to tell them from a new one except in what you pay, and they will put it together exactly the way you want it
THey are some great folks to deal with . I've bought a couple of clutches from them and I'm fixin' to tear into my tractor and have them reline the brakes on that critter
If you go with a SMF kit. Some of them are not balanced correctly and can cause vibration issues. I've had mine balanced (along with the entire rotating assembly) as it was vibrating terribly at 2200-2500 RPM. A lot of clutch companies use the same SMF casting (SBC, FWC, NAPA, LuK). My guess is it is an off-shore casting and quality control is lacking. If you SMF looks like mine (see below) it may, I stress may need some balancing.
Three 1/2 diameter holes where drilled 3/4 of an inch deep to get the flywheel balanced. Notice the holes were drilled at the base of the cast in counter weight.
Heath
Three 1/2 diameter holes where drilled 3/4 of an inch deep to get the flywheel balanced. Notice the holes were drilled at the base of the cast in counter weight.
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Heath
