bilbo
Full Access Member
How do I get the little arm off to do the Heim joint mod? I tried prying, hammering the bolt backwards, and an air hammer but it won’t budge. Am I doing this wrong?
Clutch Arm/Heim Joint Mod
- Thread starter bilbo
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bilbo
Full Access Member
Finally got it. Had to use the air hammer to get it off. Definitely wasn’t going anywhere under normal use.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I haven't removed one of those for over 20 years. I don't remember any details, but I do remember that it was a PITA.
bilbo
Full Access Member
Once I got the piece off it went great, 10 minutes of work. But took me two hours to get the piece off. I didn’t want to remove the whole pedal assembly. IDIBRINCO, I can confirm your memory is good. Definitely still a PITA.
The mod did the trick and I have a clutch again, the truck moves under its own power again!
The mod did the trick and I have a clutch again, the truck moves under its own power again!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I want to say that I grabbed the arm with my 24" Channel Locks and wiggled it back and forth to get it to break loose. Once it comes loose, it's not too bad to get off. What I hated even more was putting a new one back on. If you don't position it just right, then it's probably over for that arm since you have to force it on and make it cut it's own splines. Moving it one spline was usually too much.
bilbo
Full Access Member
Yes it would have been nice if the MC pushrod was threaded and allowed adjustment. Either threaded, or with a deep enough female Heim one could stack shims in it I suppose.
I think I mad a mark where it attached or a reference to its position. I also dropped the whole brake and clutch pedal assembly before that and installed new bushings from ford. The bushings or sleeves were white plastic and not too bad a price from the dealer, 20 bucks I think but was a chore to do.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
If you're reusing the old one, it's not so bad. At least you can try and repeat until you find the right place for it to go on. The new arms don't come with splines in them and you have to force them onto the splines on the shaft in order to cut new ones. At least that's how they were 20 years or so ago. The reference mark is a very good idea though.
You are correct. Now I remember. I did buy a new one at one time and it did not have splines.
The new one I later modded the heim joint on as the old one was worn out on the swivel ball. It was the new one that I made a mark on.
But when I installed the new arm back with the heim joint I may have looked at the position also in relation to the master cylinder and how much play I thought was acceptable. It was so tight under the dash I do not think I could see the mark.
The heim joint I bought, on ebay, had an adjusting screw on it if I remember correctly.
these rods are real easy folks.
the design is exactly like quick disconnect fuel lines of modern cars 1996+
3 or 4 little arms inside that lock the rod in place.
i usually take a piece of 5/16 steel fuel line.
cut a slit down the length, without a flare.
crimp it around the rod and push in
which opens up the arms enough to let the rod loose.
also, i dont trust the ones that have a set screw that holds the heim in place.
this is what i do
the design is exactly like quick disconnect fuel lines of modern cars 1996+
3 or 4 little arms inside that lock the rod in place.
i usually take a piece of 5/16 steel fuel line.
cut a slit down the length, without a flare.
crimp it around the rod and push in
which opens up the arms enough to let the rod loose.
also, i dont trust the ones that have a set screw that holds the heim in place.
this is what i do
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