Changing Fuel Selector Valve To Manual Valves. help!

[Desert Diesel Dog]

Changing Fuel Selector Valve To Manual Valves [with 2 valves,fuel & return]

I WANT MY GAGE TO WORK [manually switched over, front & rear]

Specific Question… How do I Re-Wire the gauges to work when there is no longer the original FSV [fuel selector valve] to do the switching?

Looking at the schematics, I see that…

PIN 4 is the common for the two fuel sender units [front and back]
PIN 3 is from the front fuel sender unit
PIN 5 is from the rear fuel sender unit

Without the FSV [with the switch for the gauges] I am thinking that those wires need to be extended back to the ‘Front/Rear’ switch in the cab. I’m thinking that only ‘half’ of the ‘double pole/double throw’ switch will be used now. [with no FSV motor to power up]

Probably… wire for common pin 4 goes to the middle terminal
Probably… wire for pin 3 goes to the top ‘Front’ terminal
Probably… wire for pin 5 goes to the bottom ‘Rear’ terminal

right?

Any advice on fuses?

CLEARLY, I DON’T KNOW WHAT I AM DOING HERE !!!

Can someone help me?

PICTURES showing how you set up your Manual Valves would be GREAT !!! I am still trying to decide where the best place would be to mount my valves.

Anything you could post would be Greatly Appreciated !!

Thanks,
-kj-

 

[Mulochico]

When I modified my fuel system I just left the old FSV in place (w/o fuel lines of course ). Plumbed the lines around it and just used it as the controller for the fuel gauges. A lot easier that rewiring the whole thing.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Changing Fuel Selector Valve To Manual Valves [with 2 valves,fuel & return]

I WANT MY GAGE TO WORK [manually switched over, front & rear]

Specific Question… How do I Re-Wire the gauges to work when there is no longer the original FSV [fuel selector valve] to do the switching?

Looking at the schematics, I see that…

PIN 4 is the common for the two fuel sender units [front and back]
PIN 3 is from the front fuel sender unit
PIN 5 is from the rear fuel sender unit

Without the FSV [with the switch for the gauges] I am thinking that those wires need to be extended back to the ‘Front/Rear’ switch in the cab. I’m thinking that only ‘half’ of the ‘double pole/double throw’ switch will be used now. [with no FSV motor to power up]

Probably… wire for common pin 4 goes to the middle terminal
Probably… wire for pin 3 goes to the top ‘Front’ terminal
Probably… wire for pin 5 goes to the bottom ‘Rear’ terminal

right?

Any advice on fuses?

CLEARLY, I DON’T KNOW WHAT I AM DOING HERE !!!

Can someone help me?

PICTURES showing how you set up your Manual Valves would be GREAT !!! I am still trying to decide where the best place would be to mount my valves.

Anything you could post would be Greatly Appreciated !!

Thanks,
-kj-

I'm working on this project now. I was going to wire the selector switch as the guage selector but I was uncertain of how it was wired. I removed it and screwed a SPDT switch in. Bear in mind if you go this route there is only ONE TYPE of switch that will work. It needs to be an "On-On" 3 prong SPDT switch meaning the "A" and "B" circuit have a common additional line - that is for your guage.

I ran the two wires that will be for the gauge down through this boot at the firewall side of the accelerator pedal after removing the dash to access the selector switch.

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This is underneath the truck where they came out. I used Red and White (red is missing in this pic) The black wire is for a ground for my manual gp switch...

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I put electrical tape around the two wires every 12" or so and tucked them into the plastic casing already there that runs back along the frame. This pic is below and just behind the the driver side front of the cab where the two wiring bundles head up to the engine compartment....

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I pulled apart the switch and put this in its place.

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Here you can see the necessary 3 pegs (on the right side of switch housing)

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I clipped the wires off the FSV harness...

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So here is where there is a diversion... I clipped the Yellow w White Stripe wire for the guage in the cab at the harness that comes in through the firewall so I did not bother with the gauge wire at the harness. The Blue with yellow stripe is the wire from front tank sender, the Yellow with Blue stripe is the rear tank sender and the Yellow is the fuel gauge.... Those are the 3 wires you need to be concerned with. I clipped all the wires and tied off what I didn't need and tucked everything back into the black plastic wire casing.

You will need to connect those two wires to your two wires you ran from the switch.

When you pull the FSV and separate the wires it will make more sense.

 

[Zaggnutt]

I'm keeping my metal lines so I don't have so many long lengths of rubber hose. I am concerned about vacuum pressure collapsing them over time...

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Obviously I only have one set of hard lines from FSV to valves. Returns will be rubber.

I have to clean it up some, but here are the valves in place. Hoses not connected yet. If I had an automatic I would run the valves from the center hump. It is not as convenient as I thought to have them along the seat. I offset them because these were the two most comfortable places to reach down with the door closed.

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Do some experimenting on where they feel the most comfortable to switch from the driving position and then hop out and look underneath for obstructions / heat. I did a lot of research on the manual valves, but there are not a lot of pics....

 

[franklin2]

If you would like, a quick easy way would be to mount a little box in the floor near the fuel selector valves. You can get a little plastic box from radio shack(or a metal on if you prefer). Or you can run the wiring all the way up to the dash.

You will need a single pole, double throw switch. It doesn't need to be 3 position. This switch will have 3 terminals on it. The center terminal is common, connected to one terminal in one position, connected to the other terminal in the other position.

Common in the circuit is the fuel gauge. So it will go to the center terminal. That is the yellow/white wire at the FSV.

The sending unit wires will go to the outside terminals. They are the darkblue/yellow(front) and the yellow/lightblue(rear).

Here's what the switch will look like.

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[Zaggnutt]

If you would like, a quick easy way would be to mount a little box in the floor near the fuel selector valves. You can get a little plastic box from radio shack(or a metal on if you prefer). Or you can run the wiring all the way up to the dash.

You will need a single pole, double throw switch. It doesn't need to be 3 position. This switch will have 3 terminals on it. The center terminal is common, connected to one terminal in one position, connected to the other terminal in the other position.

Common in the circuit is the fuel gauge. So it will go to the center terminal. That is the yellow/white wire at the FSV.

The sending unit wires will go to the outside terminals. They are the darkblue/yellow(front) and the yellow/lightblue(rear).

Here's what the switch will look like.

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Ooops! Yep, my mistake. The gauge wire is Yellow with White stripe...

 

[Zaggnutt]

I would highly recommend ordering your switch at eBay. You can get 10 switches for the price of one at Advance and that includes free shipping. I was at NAPA, Autozone, and Advance Auto. I also web searched Tractor Supply. NONE OF THOSE STORES CARRY THE CORRECT SWITCH.

I ordered these....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pcs-AC-12...246?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7a14ef6e
I like the waterproof cap. If you decide to go with the switch instead of using the existing toggle let me know. I will send you one for free if you mail me a shipping label.

Also, here are the relevant manual selector threads that I have found....
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...selector-valve&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...selector-valve&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...elector-Valves&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...alve-Nightmare&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...selector-valve&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...alve-questions&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://jrohlf.web.cern.ch/jrohlf/fuel_tank_selector.pdf
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...valve-write-up&highlight=manual+tank+selector
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?53265-Electric-FSV-manual-valves-questions

These are the valves I got... They have a steel ball which is better than the normal plastic. Something to look into before buying...
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?53265-Electric-FSV-manual-valves-questions

And this is the cheapest price on Gates Barricade diesel fuel rated hose I can find ANYWHERE....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=121282838867
They also sell different lengths and diameters....
Hope this info helps. Good luck!