CCLB 2x4 DRW- 4x4 SRW With PMF RSK

laserjock

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If you need better pics let me know. It was dark when I took those.
 

laserjock

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Sorry I'm running behind. This is the mount on the pass side.

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The three holes above and to the left of the mount are the rivets from the shock tower. The four directly to the right just before the front spring hager are the front overload bracket.

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Here it is a little closer.

The next one is from inside the frame rails to show you the bolt hole locations.

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If you notice, there is an anti squeak pad for the bed directly above it. I don't think that is actually a mount point for the bed because I think it's too small for a bed bolt.

Here you can see the relationship to the lower rivet on the front spring hanger.
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That's 7-7.5 inches.

Hope that helps.
 

LCAM-01XA

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6.9poweredscout said:
Less tires to buy and nice rust free box! I don't tow equipment so I'm not worried about weight.
Lemme guess where your DRW box was problematic, right above the wheels, ain't it? LOL

The factory 4x4 swaybar links may or may not work for you, depending on how high she rides in the rear now you may still need to sleeve the links longer. Btw what size are your air springs, height and dia?

laserjock said:
If you notice, there is an anti squeak pad for the bed directly above it. I don't think that is actually a mount point for the bed because I think it's too small for a bed bolt.
Those can be made into bolted bed mounts easy enough, however I'd recommend against it. On the bed itself every bolted crossmember is internally reinforced where a factory bolt passes thru it to prevent it from squishing when said bolt is tightened. On the other hand none of the non-bolted crossmembers has such reinforcements, meaning if you are to punch holes and run bolts thru them you can easily collapse them. You could of course fab some reinforcement sleeves or spacers that fit tightly inside said crossmembers, but that's quite a bit of work for no real gain IMHO.
 

6.9poweredscout

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All one color!

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Cleaned up the stainless and tossed it back on...

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IDIoit

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As a side note, if you'd like to part with the quarter windows in that donor truck shoot me a pm.

i have a set of 1/4 windows i cant use.
off my 87 F350 CCLB.
i ***** the nut and spring off the bottom.
i put on 88 bronco doors, and the divider was a 1/2" wider.
message me if youre interested, and offer me a fair price.
 

LCAM-01XA

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All one color!
At least till you open the tailgate LOL

Cleaned up the stainless and tossed it back on...
That ought to help deter people from following you too close while having their high beams on :D

So what did you end up doing about the rear swaybar links? Also I meant to ask you earlier, but is that an F-Super pitman arm you're running now?
 

6.9poweredscout

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The cut the factory links and extended them. And yes the FSD and F350 are the same.

Here she is all wrapped up with new tires and powdercoated wagons!

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Handles awesome with the new tires and sway bars connected. Was never a brickface fan, but this ones growing on me!
 

sjwelds

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Very veerrrrrrrrrrrryyyyy nice indeed! Looks aggressive and Built Ford Tough! I love the stance; the lift and tires and headache rack all go together perfectly imho.

Now all you need is a lil tint on the windows lol
 

6.9poweredscout

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Thanks!! It has what probably was 20% many years ago. When i have the ambition to peel it all off i plan on having it done again.
 

LCAM-01XA

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The cut the factory links and extended them. And yes the FSD and F350 are the same.

Handles awesome with the new tires and sway bars connected. Was never a brickface fan, but this ones growing on me!

For the small amount of work involved in extending the factory links I couldn't see myself buying new ones either. Just throw new poly bushings and go. And yeah, they do handle good when the suspension has been freshly rebuilt, kinda scary how much you can push them actually.

Looks good tho, what size of tires are those, 285s?
 
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