Cab sound insulation
- Thread starter Duke
- Start date
ISurvivedNMU
Full Access Member
I would even be interested in a cheap stick on type...Like paper...
Whit
Registered User
Duke, I have no idea where to find it but I know there is actually a paint out there that insulates.........yes it is true.
TooMuchBoost
Full Access Member
Rockford Fosgate and other had a private labeled spray-on that was nothing more than undercoating.
Tell an automotive paint store that you are looking for a rubberized undercoating and see what they suggest. The best way to buy and spray it is from a 1L can with a 'shultz' type gun running off an air compressor.
Try:
U-POL
Rubber Seal
Dominion Sure Seal
As far as sticky paper the cheapest way to go is sticky asphalt padding from Home Ripoff.
I use Dynamat extreme in everything I own, but I get it at a wholesale price.
On edit those shutz type guns are available with wands. Geo/walcom/asturo has one that lists for about $40. 3M's is about a mortgage payment.
Tell an automotive paint store that you are looking for a rubberized undercoating and see what they suggest. The best way to buy and spray it is from a 1L can with a 'shultz' type gun running off an air compressor.
Try:
U-POL
Rubber Seal
Dominion Sure Seal
As far as sticky paper the cheapest way to go is sticky asphalt padding from Home Ripoff.
I use Dynamat extreme in everything I own, but I get it at a wholesale price.
On edit those shutz type guns are available with wands. Geo/walcom/asturo has one that lists for about $40. 3M's is about a mortgage payment.
Last edited:
ISurvivedNMU
Full Access Member
What about the great stuff... Spray in foam? MAYBE?
TooMuchBoost
Full Access Member
NO WAY!
Great Stuff is a moisture cured foam that will continue to gradually expand up to 36 hours after initial spraying. It expands at such a rate that it will bow/warp sheet metal. Ask a body man or car painter.
Duramix makes a sheet metal safe foam that takes the path of least resistance and expands at 8 psi, but it's $35 for a 6oz cartridge that makes 1cu ft cured.
Snowman269
AKA: DDDENIO
Great Stuff also makes a non hardening foam that stays flexable, plyable. Have you guys seen this stuff? It supposedly doesn't expand as much and might be a better alternative. I've seen the regular stuff move a cement block in a foundation. I'd be real careful using it in my vehicle.
TooMuchBoost
Full Access Member
The way to test is take a beer can and compress the sides in about 50%. Shoot the foam inside the drinking hole and if you get much movement or 'crinkling' don't use it on your vehicle.
Snowman269
AKA: DDDENIO
Not a bad idea! The metal in a beer can is Aluminum & much thinner than the cab of our trucks which are steel. The comparison is apples & oranges in my opinion. But you are right, if the can is safe, the truck would be too!
About a dozen years ago in a Chevy work van, I used liberal amounts of spray foam to block leaks in the body from rust holes. Then coated some of it with rustcoating. After about 10 years the foam deteriates and needs some replacing.
What kind of sealant does the factory use? It appears our vehicles have some type of foam sealant from the factory?
About a dozen years ago in a Chevy work van, I used liberal amounts of spray foam to block leaks in the body from rust holes. Then coated some of it with rustcoating. After about 10 years the foam deteriates and needs some replacing.
What kind of sealant does the factory use? It appears our vehicles have some type of foam sealant from the factory?
ISurvivedNMU
Full Access Member
TooMuchBoost
Full Access Member
Originally posted by ISurvivedNMU
Sorry. I just felt I needed to be emphatic and trust me 100's if not 1000's of people in auto body learned it the hard way.
The not so funny part is the body man typically seam seals/foams just before the car heads to the paint shop to be painted. The painter will paint the car then pull it out the booth only to be able to surf a door skin or roof skin with Great Stuff behind it.
The can demo shows the body tech exactly what you said. If it won't warp a can it won't warp a Honda.
Years ago I personally sold millions of dollars of Duramix as a rep and I've been down this road a few times.
The local stereo shop in town sells it, but they recommend that it be appied when the sheetmetal is nice & warm. I can get a flexible hose applicator to reach down in narrow cavities and it comes in 1 and 5 gallon as well as spray cans. Not cheap...gonna cost ~$100 to do the cab, but it sounds like the right stuff.
Looks like a summertime job.
Looks like a summertime job.
Markinter
User Registered
I looked into lowering in-cab noise level and I ended up buying some insulation material from "Camping World". It's called Doghouse insulation and they sell it for RV owners to dampen noise from the in cab engine access cover. It's 4ftX6ftX1/2 inch and is heat resistant foil on 1 side and they give you a can of aresol adhesive. It costs $34.00. I used carpet on my doors which quieted things some as well as keeping me warmer in winter and cooler in summer. I bought the insulation to cover the floor under the exsisting floor covering and I will be buying more for under the hood. My 4900 hood has what appears to be slots where insulation should be held. My fear in putting insulation there is what could happen if it falls into the fan!
Mark
Mark
I would also think any type of foam that goes under the floor would deteriorate rapidly. Looks like the best thing for the floor would be a "dynamat"-like product, thin and durable, too.
I would also think a spray-in foam between panels may start to crumbe after it becomes brittle, and possibly cause squeaking.
I would also think a spray-in foam between panels may start to crumbe after it becomes brittle, and possibly cause squeaking.
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