Brand New Used Truck

[Coyote_Red]

I picked up a take off muffler from an 06 Dmax for 40 bucks. 3.5 in/out. Very quiet. Only time I hear it is doing about 50 mph, it has a nice diesel purr.

I forgot to mention that the truck is N/A and the it seems the cost to benefit ratio is not worth anything over 3". Though for that price I could throw some adapters for 3.5 to 3 on.

 

[wildman7798]

Alright, now the nit-picky things are starting to get addressed. I have a few items I need help with:
1) Does anyone know where I can get the belt lines for the rear doors? Mine are shot and close to scratching the windows.
2) Exhaust needs fabricated. My plan is to have a shop fabricate from the manifolds to the Y-pipe in 2.25 or 2.5 (factory diameter) then use 3" to either a Flowmaster pro series or something similar. I have check MBRP, Diamond Eye, and Walker and they don't seem to offer a straight flow in a 3"/3" combination. I have searched several threads and the general opinion is a straight flow, single in/single out muffler. Has anyone used a Pro series or something close that offers a decent volume/tone? I am not afraid of a glass pack as some from the 2012 rally will remember a little inline six screaming on the dyno with Cherry bombs ending just after the bed. I just don't want this truck to wake the dead when pulling hills loaded down or rattle the windows of the house warming up in the winter. Suggestions or comments?

I just got the new LMC catalog and they have a pretty good selection of rubber, sweepers, felts, ect. I don't see anything specific for a quad cab but if anything I would have to assume the doors and glass must be very close to the fronts, so if not available perhaps the forward door stuff can be modified to fit the rears. Also decent selection of patch panels, ect., the prices don't seem to bad. I know very little about quads but thought this might help if you didn't already know about it. Keep rolling on this, great to see the progress and the old school lead work.

 

[Greg5OH]

Coyote, i had an adapter made for 15 bucks, 2.5-3.5. Still the cheapest option to keep it quiet. I hated the RAPPAPAPAPAPA sound at high rpms with no muffler.

 

[Coyote_Red]

I think that will be the route I go. Thanks for the idea Greg, I am not sure why I didn't think of that earlier. Now off to craigslist I go.

 

[Coyote_Red]

I finally got some time to update this thread on the progress that has been made.

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Finally got the body work on the cab done, the drivers floor pan hole cut out and patched in, the grab handles mounting holes ion the C-pillar filled and smoothed over, cab corner patched up.

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We needed a way to easily move the box around in the garage since we have been working with limited space so the boat got set off the trailer and the box placed on.

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Things are starting to come together as primer is being sprayed.

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As we sanded the high build primer down we noticed a few low spots that we were unhappy with. Two steps forward, one step backwards. Even with having to go back down to bare metal the results of not fixing the issue right would have drove me nuts for years to come.

With this still being a truck still I decided to skip the delicate and brittle automotive paints and use Majic enamel based tractor paint and hardener that is more resistant to chipping and scratching. A few problems arose here as to ensure a quality finish we decided to lay the primer from Majic over the high build Rustoleum primer. This is where we took five steps back as the Majic primer never seemed to cure. Even after 24 hours you could scrape the stuff off with a putty knife. We ended up stripping the primers back off the cab and going down to bare metal. I don't know what is in this Xylol stuff but does it ever remove paint, even some underlying factory paint and primer rubbed right off. After all of this and about months worth of night and weekend work we finally got the paint to come out how we wanted.

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This is all I have for pictures right now. The truck is currently in storage as I went from my work term for school back to actual classes in October. I am now back at work and funds are getting easier to come by again. Now it is down to the little things and details to finish assembling the body when things get a little warmer. Small things like resealing the oil cooler and painting the engine, finishing the paint on the inside of the fenders and hood will be happening over the winter time.

 

[Zaggnutt]

Alright, now the nit-picky things are starting to get addressed. I have a few items I need help with:
1) Does anyone know where I can get the belt lines for the rear doors? Mine are shot and close to scratching the windows.
2) Exhaust needs fabricated. My plan is to have a shop fabricate from the manifolds to the Y-pipe in 2.25 or 2.5 (factory diameter) then use 3" to either a Flowmaster pro series or something similar. I have check MBRP, Diamond Eye, and Walker and they don't seem to offer a straight flow in a 3"/3" combination. I have searched several threads and the general opinion is a straight flow, single in/single out muffler. Has anyone used a Pro series or something close that offers a decent volume/tone? I am not afraid of a glass pack as some from the 2012 rally will remember a little inline six screaming on the dyno with Cherry bombs ending just after the bed. I just don't want this truck to wake the dead when pulling hills loaded down or rattle the windows of the house warming up in the winter. Suggestions or comments?

Not sure what you mean by "Belt Lines", but I can tell you that I got the window channels rubber (the clip on pieces on the inside and outside of the window) from Bronco Graveyard for HALF of the price of LMC. I check out Bronco Graveyard first before ebay and LMC.

My favorite thing about all your pics is seeing your dad and other family/friends involved. It's great to see.... And also the occasional beer in the pics. I like seeing that too Nice truck man! Keep up the old school hard work! It's worth it!

 

[Zaggnutt]

Paint looks fantastic!

 

[Coyote_Red]

Those are the pieces I am talking about, I think ford calls them belt lines but I have heard everything from weather stripping, to window seals, to window anti-rattle. Unfortunately Bronco Graveyard, or anyone else for that matter, does not stock the parts for the rear doors of the crew cabs.

Thanks for the compliment on the paint. It has been a learning experience for me since my dad has always liked body work and I wanted to learn this too.

 

[laserjock]

That looks pretty cool.

Question, TSC has a majic clear coat too now. Did you shoot clear over it as well? I too have noticed it takes forever for the primer to dry. You think its bad shooting it, try brushing it on... That's what I put on my frame. I have basically 4 gallons of a comparable paint in IH red given to me and now I'm trying to decide if I'm going to go that route or base and clear or enamel and clear with hardener.

Does the enamel shoot nice?




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[Zaggnutt]

Those are the pieces I am talking about, I think ford calls them belt lines but I have heard everything from weather stripping, to window seals, to window anti-rattle. Unfortunately Bronco Graveyard, or anyone else for that matter, does not stock the parts for the rear doors of the crew cabs.

I just cut them to fit with a tin snips. I also had to drill holes in the door panel, but they fit after slight modification. I had the same trouble finding strips for the back doors. Had to improvise. Mine were dry rotted really bad.

 

[Coyote_Red]

That looks pretty cool.

Question, TSC has a majic clear coat too now. Did you shoot clear over it as well? I too have noticed it takes forever for the primer to dry. You think its bad shooting it, try brushing it on... That's what I put on my frame. I have basically 4 gallons of a comparable paint in IH red given to me and now I'm trying to decide if I'm going to go that route or base and clear or enamel and clear with hardener.

Does the enamel shoot nice?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did not lay the clear over it, with the hardener in the paint in it it provides a gloss finish its self. I used the IH red and shot it over Rustoleum Primer Surface (light gray color) and that is the color provided by florescent garage lights, it looks 10x better in sunlight. If you use the red paint make sure to follow the directions for reducing for spraying printed on the can. My dad was so hung up on his viscosity cup test that he over reduced the paint; on the can it says that over reducing will leave a dull finish and it did. When he followed the directions on the can it sprayed nicely leaving a great wet finish right after painting, as it cured and flashed off the shine stayed about the same from fresh wet coat to dried finish. It laid out great and the orange peal was about the same or less that you see on some new cars today. We used an Eastwood HVLP gravity feed gun. I am not going to hesitate to use this paint again. Hope this helps you out.

 

[laserjock]

Thanks for the info. Yes that does help. Back in the day when we used straight enamel all the time we would shoot the paint and then buff it with this stuff from 3M I think it's called perfect it. If you have any heavy orange peal you can carefully sand it a little with some 2000 grit paper and buff it right back out. Makes a huge difference when you buff it. If you think its shiney now, that would probably make it really nice. The stuff is not cheap but it was always worth the effort. As with anything, try it on a little spot first. Never used it on the Majic stuff.

About how many coats did you lay down? Dying to see pics of it outside. Keep it up. Looks like she's ready to start back together.

 

[Coyote_Red]

Thanks for the info. Yes that does help. Back in the day when we used straight enamel all the time we would shoot the paint and then buff it with this stuff from 3M I think it's called perfect it. If you have any heavy orange peal you can carefully sand it a little with some 2000 grit paper and buff it right back out. Makes a huge difference when you buff it. If you think its shiney now, that would probably make it really nice. The stuff is not cheap but it was always worth the effort. As with anything, try it on a little spot first. Never used it on the Majic stuff.

About how many coats did you lay down? Dying to see pics of it outside. Keep it up. Looks like she's ready to start back together.

I have been waiting to give this stuff plenty of drying time before I go back and see if I want to lightly color sand any excessive orange peel. I have started to do some research on what stuff to use to buff the paint when I am ready. We ended up laying two coats of paint was all, the stuff covered great.

 

[laserjock]

Yeah, there were two products basically a heavier compound and a lighter one. The heavier one was called "finess it" and the lighter one was "perfect it". Watched a guy at a body shop years ago take a hood that looked like the paint was beat on with a hammer and buff it to a mirror shine with that stuff after a little color sanding. Never tried the aggressive one. It is good to let it harden off a while before you try to buff it.

 

[Coyote_Red]

Thanks for the tip. I will have to look around and see what I can find.